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Vl turbo boost levels

Started by vlturbosh · 7 Apr 2013 · 20 replies

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vlturboshArchived member
Hey guys, doing my first vl turbo calais, its a turbo motor, with a gt3540 turbo, front mount intercooler, air intake feeding straight to turbo through straight pipe. i am just in the process of adding a microtech lt10 comp and tuning it for 600cc siemens deka injectors with a 044 pump. just wanted to know how much boost i could be making with this setup, im hoping to make be running 20 pound boost, is this possible?
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madrexArchived member
Yea no worrys at if you have a good tuner i was running 20psi on my old turbo motor never had a problem had same mods as yours but was tuned right
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TheChadArchived member
safe tune would probably be ok on 20 for the standard motor. It's just a matter of time really though. 20psi should see you above 400rwhp with that turbo. (depending on what cam you have) Lots of success on stock bottom ends, but that will be your limiting factor. On a side note, with all those mods I assume you have a cam? If you don't you're wasting your time.
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MUSArchived member
20psi is good for that set up on a 3540. Dont go any less then 18psi in my opinion.
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HTURBOArchived member
If your worried about your engine running high boost levels just buy a knock block
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TheChadArchived member
i had the same setup as you btw, or very similar, with a crow tx3 cam, 6XX injectors, lt16s etc. 1.06 rear. 17psi made ~380 rwhp (low boost setting) 20psi made ~405 rwhp (high boost setting) This was on a very accurate reading dyno, no inflated power figures on Ovaboosts dyno. Mus is right in that you wont see any benefits at too low of a boost setting, because of the frame of the turbo it would be pointless. If you were only going to go to 14psi or so you'd want a smaller turbo, make the power early instead of spending the time waiting for the 35r to make boost before choking before it makes its real power up around 20psi.
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vlturboshArchived member
My motors is standard turbo motor , do I need cam work for this setup, I've been told the standard motor should be able to handle this, thoughts?? Thanks, appreciate your help
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SilverCalArchived member
You can't determine what boost you will be able to run, it will make what it will make given the limiting factors it has to work with lol. Yes a cam would be a great advantage as will a good free flowing exhaust for starters.. throw some pics up of the build!
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TheChadArchived member
no way of getting around it, you need a cam. The success that people tend to have with "stock internals" isn't really stock stuff. Using a standard bottom end provided you tune it safely and within reason is ok, but you want to have good flow. so your limiting factor will always be your headwork. Generally the reason everyone has built bottom ends is just so that they can be sure it can take a beating. (obviously this doesn't include the very high end stuff, strokers etc) Simply bolting a 35r to a standard motor will be lousy. I suggest you try and find a second hand head that has some mild port/polish work done, as well as a cam installed (because most of the time this requires other things to be changed in the head as well). something like a wade 818b or a crow tx2 would be fine. if you can stretch it, a new intake manifold (preferably port matched to the head) would be highly recommended.
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vlturboshArchived member
When I bought my car the bloke claimed it had been rebuilt, how can I tell if the motor has had head or bottom end work done?
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TheChadArchived member
without being a cynic, if there were no receipts or documents you can pretty much guaratee that "rebuild" wouldn't be much more than a change of a head gasket. Pretty standard bull**** sell tactic to say "rebuilt motor". An aftermarket cam or forged pistons would be a significant selling point, it's not something you wouldn't mention at the time of the sale... furthermore assuming it was a standard turbo setup a custom cam would be pretty pointless anyway. the only true way to tell if it's had work done would be to take the head off, and the sump, and have a look around. not a huge task but certainly more than a lazy Sunday arvo's work for most people. Putting 20psi of boost through the standard motor can be done safely... At the end of the day, to come full circle and return to your original post, YES you can do exactly as you said. if cash is tight and you don't want to go all out you can bolt what you have to the motor and tune it to 20psi. It will need to be a very safe tune and will likely not make a heap of power (on account of the restrictive head/cam etc). But you rest assured that at 20psi it's going to make dickloads more power than the stock engine on 7psi lol. Should turn a tyre or two on wet grass with no issues. So what I mean is, if you are tight on funds or want to get it going just do it. then save and try find an aftermarket head/whole engine package and bolt it all together step by step.
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vlturboshArchived member
Thanks the chad very helpful posts mate, ill be sure to posts pictures of the build,what do the head and engine packages consist of? And how much am I looking to pay for these parts (ball park figure) thanks
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TheChadArchived member
I bought a head off a race car for around $1.2k about 3 years ago, but that had a fair bit of work done to it. Built bottom end will probably cost in the region of 4k, depending on parts used and what it comes with. those are second hand items, can be done cheaper. can even be built cheaper parts. realistically, it's never ending. if you have enough bits to get it going just do that, and then save. also, running a VL like that I hope you have a second car, these things like to break, and a standard motor is rolling the dice every time you decide to create areas of low-lying fog. ---------- Post added 08-04-13 at 22:52 ---------- something like this: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=267918 but I don't know the cam specs, and I'm turned off by the standard rods (not much better off than your standard motor) or just snap this up: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=267918 that is a good buy, 818b cam and lifter bodies for $200, get them installed at the same time, laugh as you make better power EARLIER on a better curve! Or, if you are wealthy there's motors that are $10k kicking around like this one: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=258178 we can all dream can we not...
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vlturboshArchived member
Hey mate, thanks again for the reply, yes I have got a second car for work purposes the vl is just my project car to have a bit of fun with, feel some power etc. in not actually looking to build a ten second car just something with the power there when I need it to have a bit of fun and play with, so what are some cheaper mods I can do to my current motor without buying a whole new one to strengthen it?
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bachig24uArchived member
I've put 26.5psi in the stock bottom end with a smaller turbine wheel. I can't see boost being the issue. The fuel choice bear more relevance than how much boost. 600cc inj are probably going to be close to full duty at around 5600rpm. probably not large enough for furture plans if a cam is on the cards. I've never had the time to waste to use a large turbo with a stock cam so my guess would be it will make 20psi with no problem at all. note: you will also need to upgrade the internal lift pump as the 044 will cause cavitation in the surge tank or header tank if installed.
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vlturboshArchived member
I have found a haltech e6x 2 bar for 600 is this more worthwhile the. A 1100 dollar microtech lt10s? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/vi... d=90336950404 (http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=281088202480&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=90336950404)
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bachig24uArchived member
if you are asking me, I would keep it to stock unless you have a need to analyse the vehicle operation in great depth. you already own it. yes it is old but cheap to replace. Our retuned stock 3EA ecu ran 26+psi, 1000cc hi-z injectors and a 90mm MMAF kit, always more in it. I perfer haltech over microtec as the software is much better developed.
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vlturboshArchived member
*** it I'm going rx7 injectors with microtech lt10s, way too many options I've mentioned to my cousin doing the mods! His starting to get the ****s!
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TheChadArchived member
Microtech are incredibly simple. The NEW haltechs are apparently the business... Mocrotechs are simple in a good way though. Easy to tune, make good power, excellent ignition system. A second hand motec would be better still, I regret not doing that. Not sure I agree with you on the injectors thing there mate. My car is running bp98 with 660cc injectors. Running 23 psi and has a slightly custom tx3. No issues. If anything it's too fat at max boost (because I wanted it to be safe) AFR sits at pretty much 10.2 constant at full boost. Upgrading the fuel system is a must! If its a project and you want o learn stuff just do it. If I were you I'd snap up that $200 cam though... If you plan on running e85 later, which in reality you should, design the fuel system for that now. Will be more expensive at the start, but better at the end. I have 1x Walbro lift pump feeding a surge tank, with 2x 044s. Also have a new hard line run for the fuel line that is bigger than standard. This is pointless for my 660cc injectors, but will mean ill only need to change the rubber lines in the boot to Teflon braid or hard line when I decide I want e85. Sometimes it just isn't worth pushing stock gear when aftermarket products that are tried and tested work so well, for only a small % more cost.
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vlturboshArchived member
I understand where your comming from, I actually couldn't find that 200 dollar cam can u link me again mate, I know a few guys that ran the rx7 injectors and from memory I think there around 550cc, more then sufficient for my set up right?
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