Hey guys, I've finished (practically) my setup. unfortunately being limited by my injectors it is only doing 375hp on 98 pump on only 16psi. So everyone has an idea of my problem, my engine consists of this- Rb25det with standard internals 5 speed manual with heavy duty clutch CPC intake with 80mm throttle 440cc injectors with billet fuel rail ETM highmount exhaust manifold gt35/40 1.06 rear housing 4" into 3" HPC Coated high mount dump pipe with plumback Progate 48 external gate 600x300x75 Cooler 3" exhaust Undercar surge tank with fuel tank lines 044 JD custom catch can eboost2 microtech lt-16c 6x bosch coilpacks microtech x6 upgraded brakes with VT booster/master toughened diff with trutrac (can't remember gear ratio) 5" pod filter braided everything oilcooler with oil filter relocation turbosmart fpr plumback bov battery relocation (not that it would make any difference?) alloy radiator thermo fan custom fan shroud i'm also having cooling issues, although everything has been upgraded on it. does anyone have any ideas on how i can lower my spool time? it is really frustrating me. i've looked around on many sites, but all setups are different so it is hard to match. any help is much appreciated. cheers, Inferno

At what revs are u getting boost?

its the large turbine wheel holding you back, i have the same turbo with a serious singlecam head and i get boost fullboost (28psi) at around 3500-4000. had a bit of a squirt against a car with a little less power a while ago but he had a .86 rear, everytime he was on boost in a flash

starts spooling at around 3900. yeah i figured it was the rear housing causing the problems, but it has been custom done to suit the wastegate, so not really wanting to change it unless i really have to. is there anyway i can get it to spool earlier? cams etc?

After watching you leave my house earlier, learning how to drive would help Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Wouldn't be hard for someone to copy your external gate setup. 3900 is pretty late, but it's also a manual. Cams would help you tho

you told me to drop it oliver so i did! haha yeah just pretty $$ to get a new rear housing i bet. i havnt had a big look into it but i wouldn't think its very cheap?

Did you buy your etm brand new? Coz it would be worth a shot calling Leigh an having a word to him. He might be able to help you out.

nah i got the hot side off Chris (rb30debt)

Use antilag setup in your ecu don't know what effects it will have on your motor or turbo look in to it ??

Just took a look, extreme heat on the turbo. Prob something id only use on the strip. Do yoy know anything about this two step they all talk about too? I may have to try some angry cams otherwise will need to reduce housing.. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

One kills timing and the other retards timing or they can be a combination of both.. Some call it anti-lag other 2-step. Realistically for a turbo that size on a 2.5L, the spool sounds about right, I would think it could be a little earlier with some tune tweaks possibly. Do you have 4.11's? It has an R33 5 Speed doesn't it? A rear housing is cheap, under $100 2nd hand if you shop hard enough. It will bring it on earlier, but on a gentler curve. How hard are you turning the engine? When does it make full boost? Does it come on hard from no boost to all the boost in a short rev range? Turn the engine till 8K, get 4.11's not a lot of cars would touch it.

As said 1.06 may be a touch too big for a 2.5, especially without cams. I see around the same kind of figures as quoted by psi wagon, maybe even a little later on my 3L with a big single cam. I would recommend against AntiLag untill everything else is sorted. Especially your cooling issues. I had an issue where my front wheel gota bit chopped up and that caused later spooling. Make sure it's still good first. And check for leaks in the pipe work. it also may be that whoevers tuned your car has tuned it to make a magic number on a piece of paper instead of a torquey tyre eater. Who tuned it? Assuming its all good I would suggest these changes (in this order) untill you're happy. 1. Cams+injectors+tune This is your best chance to flow more air and fuel when you want it. My cam for instance is a pig below ~2800 but it comes on song after and brings it in hard. 2. Different turbine housing size. Plenty of people making stupid power on .63 housings hitting boost early. .8 would be better all round though. 3. Different turbo. Possibly a gtx30 instead of a gt35? Would be small but a rediculous time on the street. Or a billet sized the same as the 35, it's a 62** or 64** from memory (I don't remember the numbers sorry). 4. Pipework and manifolds. Designing your Pipework and manifolds to have the smallest distance and smallest volume (not smaller diameter, just distances and less bends) will improve spool time slightly. I'll do this on my car one day. Also better designed Pipework will likely help a little. This realistically probably won't make all that mug difference, assuming your current pipes and cooler are decent and there are zero leaks. Just my opinions. Jack

Does Chris still have his Kelford Cams for sale which he was using with that turbo setup?

Ive got a smaller turbine housing for the gt35 if you want it.

my mate had a .63 in his skyline and that saw full boost b4 3,000rpm now i have a .82 in my rb30 and i see full boost at about 2,800 rpm if i was u id go to a .63

Duke57TT- i'm not sure on the diff ratio, i had it rebuilt and i lost what they said it was, i think it may be 4.11 i'll need to check after christmas. yeah it has a r33 5 speed i didn't realise rear housings were that cheap? i thought i would be up for at least a grand with repiping what do you mean by 'turning the engine?' sorry i'm still working on my lingo. in 2nd gear you start feeling boost at around 4000, by 4500 i lose traction a bit and grip onto the steering wheel like all hell. all whilst my rev counter disappears into the dash instantly. Jack- i don't think i will be ever happy! haha. all my tyres are new so no problems there. with the tune i know they have just done a safe tune to get through engineering and pits fine, but that wouldn't make spooling so late would it? i'd need a good midway point i think, i need to be able to somewhat be able to drive in the wet! i'm trying to go against a smaller turbo, spent so much $$ on this one lol all pipework and manifolds have been redone past month for best flow/power so i am really hoping that isn't the problem. Steve- Chris was running a rb30 bottom end, that would make his cams pointless in my car wouldn't they? stocker31- message sent BT- why would you pick the .63? it would run out of puff pretty quick wouldn't it? cheers everyone for their advice! it is really helpful and definitely giving me ideas and looking forward to more comments! i'll post a picture of the dirty engine bay when i find a second. still requires a lot of painting/cleaning but will give you all an idea of where i'm heading! Cheers, Inferno

Quote: Originally Posted by inferno [View Post] Steve- Chris was running a rb30 bottom end, that would make his cams pointless in my car wouldn't they? Not ness's celery Depends on the cam specs, wont hurt to at least ask him the specs etc

lol @ celery Maybe you would be best getting all passed before you worry about old ladies in their toyotas? Once it's ready to go again speak to your tuner about what you are unhappy about. Who tuned it? did I miss that? Unlikely the "engineering friendly" tune would cause such issues unless you have adjustable cam gears etc and someone knew where to tune it make it the least bit pollutiony/scary for the testers. If it's any of the big shops like Ovaboost or Rotos etc, or indeed any reputable shop, I would expect that if you called them to tell them what's up they would recommend what you should do next. While it is probably not your main contributing factor to the late spool I would say bigger injectors/fuel system would make whoever is tuning it more happy to push it some more. from what I can see I would wait until dave weighs in his input. he has a (from memory) 35r on a 25 without cams and he seems more than happy to pull ridiculous power, blow diffs and do big skids with no complaints. outside of all of that, I giggled at the comment about wanting to drive in the wet, you're kidding yourself driving in the rain, with that sort of power in a VL, you're already making good power and if the road is wet... in one of our boats that's asking for trouble.

lol @ camry's Some good advice above, for what it's worth this setup was on full boost around 4000 rpm in my 25/30 it was a bit hard to tell because of the stall converter. The motor was built to make power well past 8k rpm though which gave it a very usable band. No issues with torching the tyres through the auto unless it was intended. The 1.06 rear was used because we didn't want to add any unnecessary flow restrictions to the built 30 and cammed 25 head and also to add a bit of control to the way the car made power. Cam options from kelford are here (http://kelfordcams.com/applications.aspx). 99% sure i have the H182-C cam which says "High lift Racing camshafts, low seat duration, maximum velocity to suit street RB30 with 25 head, requires head machining." 264/226 10.2mm lift. Shaun I think you need to decide 100% how you want the setup to work before you take any futher action. Do you have any goals or intended use %? eg do you want to 99% drive it on the street but then sometimes take it to the drags? Your goals and intentions for the car need to drive how it's setup. As an example all of the other guys here with 35R's know that 4500 isn't "very late spooling". I'd imagine with a manual and a 35R burying the throttle in 1st, 2nd and possibly even 3rd with street tyres is going to result in the extreme loss of traction you're experiencing. The auto helped in this area but i still wouldn't be brave enough to bury the throttle on the street all the time. If it's just for street duties and you're keen on a more responsive setup and happy with 350hp through a manual I'd be going a smaller turbo. If you want to have a crack at 11's at the drags and can deal with some street lag I would be looking at pumping some more air through that motor with cams and maybe even a 30 bottom end. Relative to the guys who bought all their gear new you prob haven't spent anywhere near what they have so a few extra thousand to personalise your setup wouldn't be so bad. My goals we to have a good crack at a 10 and do transbrake skids lol. Slapping on some ET streets and pedaling it down the drags might give you an idea if you like that sort of thing? Jack is right above I probably would have lost to a few excels if i'd tried to run them in the rain - followed by ending up in a storm drain or something! Hope you have some luck with it mate, have a good think about how YOU want it to be and the guys here can help with advice from there... Merry xmas all! Cheers, Chris