hey guys. im going to do a closed door respray on my car as it has deep scratches ect i need to know important info on how to do it proply the colour is tiga mica (orange pearl) my questions are what size air compressor should i get and what type of spray gun as theres a ****load on the market what grit sand paper to scratch back the paint and anything else u can think of thanks guys look forward to ur help!!

hey I recently resprayed my GFS crx but I used acrylic paint as its illegal to spray 2pak I scuffed it with 400grit as for a compressor I went to kennards and some other places they wanted $85 a day for a compressor I highly recommend going to bunnings they rent for $45 aday big compressor I did the whole car, as for the gun it depends ask a paint shop as different guns do different paints hope this helps

Quote: Originally Posted by CRMNIL [View Post] hey I recently resprayed my GFS crx but I used acrylic paint as its illegal to spray 2pak I scuffed it with 400grit as for a compressor I went to kennards and some other places they wanted $85 a day for a compressor I highly recommend going to bunnings they rent for $45 aday big compressor I did the whole car, as for the gun it depends ask a paint shop as different guns do different paints hope this helps acrylic is a easyer paint to use yea?? 400 grit ive got that in the shed finally it has a purpose haha, bunnings is just down the road from me so thats all set, how long did u leave the paint to dry before u put on a clear coat??

I did it the same as the paint so the paint was still abit tacky than I sprayed the clearcoat, after painting and clearing I went over with 1200 grit than 1500 than got a buffer and cut and polished came up like glass you might want to colour sand before clearcoat up to you the more you put in the better it will look

depending on how many scratches and how deep they are many things could be done as aposed to a respray, cut and buff or repair and blend areas where needed much cheaper and if it is already in 2k paint i wouldnt be painting it in acrylic !.Feather out deep scratches wih 180 240 on block, 2.remove blocking scrathes with 240 on machine 3.3 coats high fill primer 4.block areas with 240 5.guide coat areas 6.remove 240 scratches with 400g on machine or 800g wet/dry with block 7.scuff stuff and scotchbrite all surrounding areas 8.w&g panels mask up 9.paint it

How deep are these "deep scratches", and is the paint on the car atm acrylic or 2pak?

thanks for that info , deep scrathes are deep enough to go threw the paint and primer can stick my finger nail in there, i have sanded it back and did a few layers of primer filler over it and the scratch has gone lol, the paint is original so i dont know if its 2pak or acrylic Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Assuming your car is the vt ss in your avatar I would be saying that it is 2pak (thought you were talking about a vl). What ITGOES ^^ said above is the advice I would be taking, thats basically what we do at work, however,.... as also said above 2pak paint is dangerous and illegal to spray outside a booth, and without the proper safety equiptment.

Who needs a panel beating and spray painting course..... just watch all of these videos and youre virtually qualified!! http://www.vgautopaints.com.au/diy.html

to tell if its acrylic get some thinners and give it a wipe on the car.somewhere the paint dont matter .if the paint comes off its acrylic if it stays on its 2k and you can spray 2k without a booth just need to keep the area well vented ive painted my vl and my brothers 63 beetle and both turned out great Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

You can get 2pak nowadays without the carcinogens in them, ask for ISO free 2pak at the paint store

You want a compressor with roughly 340 lpm free air delivery under 300 will struggle to keep up also go with a devilbiss gti they're a good gun or an iwata

what has a better finish 2pak or acylic?, i have made up my own little spray booth setup with a ventalation fan, so im free from dust and **** flying around, paint didnt come off when i wiped it

Quote: Originally Posted by ITG035 [View Post] depending on how many scratches and how deep they are many things could be done as aposed to a respray, cut and buff or repair and blend areas where needed much cheaper and if it is already in 2k paint i wouldnt be painting it in acrylic !.Feather out deep scratches wih 180 240 on block, 2.remove blocking scrathes with 240 on machine 3.3 coats high fill primer 4.block areas with 240 5.guide coat areas 6.remove 240 scratches with 400g on machine or 800g wet/dry with block 7.scuff stuff and scotchbrite all surrounding areas 8.w&g panels mask up 9.paint it Best advice here.. take note of this mate. If you want to do it right.. you do it this way.

2k paint has a great finish straight off the gun but acrylic looks kinda dull. but color sanded and buffed will look fantastic

Acrylic is **** that's why they don't use it anymore! Use 2k mate I'm a panel beater myself

ive copied and pasted the info he gave me, i keep reading it to memerize it, isnt 2k harder to paint with? how many coats would i need of base coat and clear? ---------- Post added 09-08-12 at 18:32 ---------- and whats the scotch brite used for exactlly going down to the paint shop on the w.e to start getting supplies

good info lads can i add that metallic is not easy too lay down for a beginner so practice on a spare panel before you hit your car scotch brite is for cleaning/ prepping a panel if it doesn't necessarily need sanding good luck

Mate its pretty hard to explain all in a MSG I've been a painter myself for 12 years a good paint job mostly depends on your prep work and make sure u got a quality gun 2 coats of 2k clear will b plenty but don't go 2 heavy on ya first coat also there's a lot of good quality clears out there at a. Good price aswell just hunt around

Two Pack is way better.. even for a beginner just get a good respirator.. sure an air fed is the go but gerson do 2k capable respirator for around 150-200 keep the place well ventinated a high flowing extraction fan is key without sucking the spray stream from the gun of course Use blue tack rag they are a sticky rag over the panel before you lay primer or paint itl pickup any crap on the surface you should only need 2 of for the whole job Two pack looks unreal even if it has minor imperfections bugger the iso free stuff it costs too much money When you spray the primer gradually thin each coat down a little bit more you will save yourself alot of rubbing, block the primer down and then finish in 600/800 grit Your paint will be metallic so it will need a clear coat.. you will need to apply the basecoat smoothly and evenly it will look really dull two or three coats of basecoat will suffice and its the easier part of the job and you can fix any imperfections before you clear but it will show up if your not gentle using really high grit 1500 etc Clear coat is a prick you need really good lighting like hps lights or something like that so you can see what you are doing Put the first coat on extremely light and then go and drink a whole beer the time between coats is really important when not spraying in booth conditions pretty much if you dont wait a long time it will run off the panel like water & repeat two pack solid is heaps easier but you wont get a metallic colour in a solid paint solid is the same deal but it doesnt need clear like the yellow car above Star spray guns are good and cheap for a beginner a mid range is around $130 get a 1.4mm and a 2.0mm Also deluxe is a good cheapy for a primer gun good build quality Spend the money if you have it but have had good results with cheap stuff ---------- Post added 09-08-12 at 21:47 ---------- 310 Free air delivery is probably one of the biggest single phase compressors you can get I think snap on do the biggest which is 15amp almost 400f.a.d pretty much get a good compressor and you shouldnt have to buy another one for a long time