Hey guys, my vlct has run hot since i bought it. If im driving through town the temp goes straight up, but on the highway it runs at the 2nd line on temp gauge. I have a single 12'' thermo on and standard radiator, no aircon radiator, the motor is 40 thou over, is that any reason to b running hot like that or is there other issues causing it? Any help would b greatly appreciated! Cheers

Inspect/replace thermostat. Then check your switches/relays on the thermo to see if it's actually turning on when it's supposed to.

Yea well i have the thermo wired to a switch, and i turn it on as soon as im pulled up or stopping and starting at traffic lights, the thermostat i havnt checked yet, i have a new one in the shed so i might replace that then and see how i go! Does going to a clutch fan improve temp better than thermo fans?

yes the standard clutch fans are much better

I've got a thermo in mine and it's quite fine however the switch did break at one point and I ran into trouble with similar issues it's now controlled through the computer. Another mate had thermo stat problems and was experiencing similar troubles. Best of luck with it mate let me know how you go

Thanks for that, i'l change my thermostat wen i have time and let yas know how i go with it, if it doesnt make it better i'l go to clutch fan and see how that goes! Cheers for the help guys!!

Changed my thermostat on the weekend, its still the same and the old one was workin fine, tested in a bucket of hot water. Will go to wreckers this weekend and try get hold of a clutch fan and go from there. I have no water in oil, or oil in water, car runs perfectly, r there any other signs of a head gasket or cracked head, this car has run hot for the 7 years i'v owned it and the highest boost level iv run is 12 psi and its only ever reached 3/4 line on temp guage before i have turned it off to cool down. Any more help or ideas would b great! Cheers, dean.

throw away the thermo fan and put the standard clutch fan back with the shroud. The standard fan will pull more air then the thermo.

Ok will do for sure. Its got the full walkinshaw kit on it, minus the bootwing, would that make any difference to temperatures as the front bars so big and bulky and not much airflow can get past it?

Is your timing OK?? Spin the clutch fan when it is cold. It should move freely & when it warm/hot spin the clutch fan, it should be abit more stiffer to spin.

Does the oil look white and foamy under the rocker cover? Genuine turbo? Does it have a 3 core radiator?

Best way to make VL's maintain operating temp is to: -run the standard 3 core radiator (preferably the type with the cap located in the tank not on a neck) -standard clutch fan -change the coolant lines so coolant does not flow through the plenum and throttle body (thers a link on here on how to do this, it makes the system easy to bleed) -tridon highflow thermostat (they open at 77*C) and to run Nulon red coolant. I have tried Alloy radiators and electric thermos. They are a waste of time and dont provide any real gain. VL's normal temp on the gauge is between two bars from the left and half way depending on the type of driving.

HTURBO, I havnt checked timing since i have bought it, i'l check that this weekend too! DUKE57TT, nah no milkyness, its genuine turbo rebuilt bout 35,000 kay ago, all forged, headwork and cam and i think its not a 3core, was only one from the wreckers, but i have had 2 differnt radiators in car and still runs the same hot temp!! BRO SPEED, thats handy as i was just about to buy an sluminium radiator, will look for a copper 3 core, do you know the best place to buy these? Ebay? And i'l have a look for that link also!! Great ideas thanks guys!!

did the car just all of a sudden start over heating? or has the motor always run hot ever since it was built? Reason why i ask is that has the cooling system been bled properly and has not air pockets in it as this will cause your engine to heat up if you do. Also in previous experience with the rb30's i have found my self going back to the standard cooling system as i have always had problems with overheating once it has been changed. Also i agree with BRO SPEED the aluminium radiators are a waste of money and i have had more success with the copper cores.

Quote: Originally Posted by SATAN [View Post] HTURBO, I havnt checked timing since i have bought it, i'l check that this weekend too! DUKE57TT, nah no milkyness, its genuine turbo rebuilt bout 35,000 kay ago, all forged, headwork and cam and i think its not a 3core, was only one from the wreckers, but i have had 2 differnt radiators in car and still runs the same hot temp!! BRO SPEED, thats handy as i was just about to buy an sluminium radiator, will look for a copper 3 core, do you know the best place to buy these? Ebay? And i'l have a look for that link also!! Great ideas thanks guys!! I think there is some on ebay. Check with your local radiator place they will be able to help. the type of radiator your looking for has the cap in this position. when you take the cap off you can see the three cores inside. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by grunter01 [View Post] Reason why i ask is that has the cooling system been bled properly and has not air pockets in it as this will cause your engine to heat up if you do. Ditto, I was going to say the same thing, make sure you bleed it properly, I had the same issue of it overheating, did a flush of the system using a garden hose and then refilled with coolant, removing the top bleed bolt and a 1.25 coke bottle with the base cut off and electrical tape around the thread so it is a tight fit into the top of the radiator, just keeping the bottle full while the air comes out the top hole, make sure you get the car to operating temp as well with the heater on and squeeze the hoses for air pockets.

Well i did that on the weekend with the coke bottle and there was just coolant coming out of the top bleeder and nothing out of the bottom one (where top radiator hose goes on). But my heaters werent on, and i wasnt squeezin the radiator hoses!!

Quote: Originally Posted by SATAN [View Post] Well i did that on the weekend with the coke bottle and there was just coolant coming out of the top bleeder and nothing out of the bottom one (where top radiator hose goes on). But my heaters werent on, and i wasnt squeezin the radiator hoses!! If you change the hoses so the coolant dosnt run through the throttle body and plenum you dont need the top bolt and the system is easier to bleed.

Those temps sounds normal for a turbo car with a 2 core radiator to me. Plenty of cars had radiators replaced over the years without the better turbo version. I would look into replacing with a OG spec radiator. Then bleed it it like a *******.

Oh yea sweet i'l get in contact with my local radiator specialist and c if they can get me a 3 core one with the cap on top rather than on the neck! And i'l look into that link about the plenum and throttle body hoses and see whats involved!! Thanks heaps guys!!