hey all im bout to get a engine built rb30 and i was if some one could shread some light on whats involved in fitting 1/2 head studs! im aware you have to drill and tap block and drill head holes larger but im wondering what head dowles and gasket have people been using with these size studs as the dowles are to small and the standed rb30 gasket will have to be modified to fit the larger dowles and stud and so on..

Bump!! Im keen for a answer on this too..

As far as i'm aware you use an RB26 gasket? Theres a really good PDF about converting to twin cam head on the skyline forum (or in their case, converting to 3 litre bottom end) that has some information about this. I'll see if i can find it.

here we go for 1/2 inch studs get the block drilled and tapped by your engine builder if there slightly of, as soon as you start to tension the head up it will snap parts of the block off , and when your getting it done if your engine builder is smart he will drill down further to give better clearence up top of the head , or you can get l19 arp head studs if there made for the rb 30 hope this helps

What's wrong with using the ARP 2000 head studs??

L19's are the next level up from 2000's and more pricey, they also do rod bolts in the L19 range, they are chemically strengthened a different way i think is the main strength difference.

1/2 inch head studs sounds good. But seriously is it for a street/strip car or a drag car LOL.

Quote: Originally Posted by xAsh- [View Post] L19's are the next level up from 2000's and more pricey, they also do rod bolts in the L19 range, they are chemically strengthened a different way i think is the main strength difference. they have a better clamping force with less tension

Does anyone know if they do make a arp 2000 head stud for the rb30?

Quote: Originally Posted by EVLRB30 [View Post] Does anyone know if they do make a arp 2000 head stud for the rb30? for std size head bolts yes they do have use a few sets in different motors l have built

I've done this conversion at work a few times. You will have to drill out the block and tap it using a 1/2UNC tap. Then you will then need to drill out the holes on the head allowing enough clearance for the oil to travel up the head bolts. If its too tight, oil will stuggle to find its way up to the head and you will get a nasty lifter noise. Head gaskets we use the rb30 MLS gaskets from cometic. And head dowels are just stock. You will just have to place the gasket down first then screw in the studs. It will be a little tight when starting off. But then gets easier as it goes deeper down the bolt hole. That's the easiest way of do it without damaging the gasket.

Quote: Originally Posted by H.Asaad [View Post] I've done this conversion at work a few times. You will have to drill out the block and tap it using a 1/2UNC tap. Then you will then need to drill out the holes on the head allowing enough clearance for the oil to travel up the head bolts. If its too tight, oil will stuggle to find its way up to the head and you will get a nasty lifter noise. Head gaskets we use the rb30 MLS gaskets from cometic. And head dowels are just stock. You will just have to place the gasket down first then screw in the studs. It will be a little tight when starting off. But then gets easier as it goes deeper down the bolt hole. That's the easiest way of do it without damaging the gasket. did you do it on a mill or just a hand drill

On the mill of course

Dont even bother wasting your money!! You dont need to do it. Mine isnt, 40 psi no worries, RIPS doesnt do it, and we all know how fast he is going.

Quote: Originally Posted by 88 Chaser [View Post] Dont even bother wasting your money!! You dont need to do it. Mine isnt, 40 psi no worries, RIPS doesnt do it, and we all know how fast he is going. but do they work on singe cam the bolts are longer jase or have you forgot that is why most put 1/2'' studs in, the 26 head l havent heard of anyone using 1/2''

Quote: Originally Posted by 88 Chaser [View Post] Dont even bother wasting your money!! You dont need to do it. Mine isnt, 40 psi no worries, RIPS doesnt do it, and we all know how fast he is going. What setup are you running? Is it still a sohc rb30? How much power did it push? We just fit the 1/2 studs to all the rb30 engines we build. As the 1/2 kit cost around the same as the standard diameter kit and it requires little labour to make it work. We are doing a 26/30 build at the moment and we are running the rb26 L19 head stud kit.

Great info guys so no one has had any bad experiences with cracking the block when using the 1/2" studs? Would hate to build the engine then crack the block torquing the head down

No issues yet. Like I've said earlier. I've done several rb30 blocks all of which end up getting torque plate honed directly after its off the mill. And all have had no issues cracking. Infact the bores don't distort that much with the torque plate on. I tension the studs to 130ftlb. You'll be amazed how strong these blocks really are.

Yeah mines twin cam Pigsy. But even still, I run single cam head studs to suit the block, doesnt lift the head at all, 40psi and 630 rwkw. Each to their own, the last enigne I had built had them, but RIPS said not to use them, and he built the engine, so it was his call, and as far as I can tell, he isnt wrong about it. Better place to spend the labor

What sort of tension do you guys tension 11mm studs down to for 40psi or more boost?