Quote: Originally Posted by RBwagon [View Post] VLT's have 10mm ?? spacers between the gearbox mounts. Read up I need some 12mm spacers for the bigger than my rb30e box: will I need longer bolts, how much would they need to screw in to be safe ? also wheres a good place to get my skyline d/shaft yoke welded to the VL d/shaft ? north shore pref but any where in auckland ok. I have built 2 VL's both with RB25DET's, it's a very easy conversion I used the factory bolts on the gearbox mounts. I didn't touch the drive shaft, the manual VL one works fine.

Quote: Originally Posted by s1gnil [View Post] I have built 2 VL's both with RB25DET's, it's a very easy conversion I used the factory bolts on the gearbox mounts. I didn't touch the drive shaft, the manual VL one works fine. I thought it would be easy .. thanks for the info mate. So no mod needed to run the rb25det box to d/shaft.... sweeet. did you do the wiring yourself? much involved ? I havnt looked into the electric side at all yet

mx7 boxs have 12mm spacers on gearbox mounts,not 100% sure on the 25t boxs,you will find out when you put it up i guess.ad i would sad spedo drive will be different. and as far as i know,the yoke is different on the 25t boxes,adam(hsvmurf)is probly the one to ask,he has been down that road

I used the 20t box, sorry my info was probably wrong I'm not sure about the 25t box. Best to ask hsvsmurf Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

as far as i know the 25t box is roughly the same size as the mx7 and im prety sure you will need the spacers and longer bolts,easy job,and the sandwitch plate is a bit different on the starter bolts well thats the mx7 anyway,they really are a huge gearbox

definatley need spacers for the MX7/25DET box

Quote: Originally Posted by RBwagon [View Post] Hi guys Im starting my project right now and the guy who was going to help me is now not available to so Im on my own. I tried finding a rb30et but had no luck so bought a rb25det and gearbox + wiring loom and ecu ect. I have done a lot of reading up but have a few questions now and more then likely a lot more along the way.. Also I have just found out for some reason my sis wants me to drive her to her wedding in october.. ah crap pressure on now.. VLT's have 10mm ?? spacers between the gearbox mounts. Read up I need some 12mm spacers for the bigger than my rb30e box: will I need longer bolts, how much would they need to screw in to be safe ? also wheres a good place to get my skyline d/shaft yoke welded to the VL d/shaft ? north shore pref but any where in auckland ok. power steering lines: will the VL lines bolt up to the skyline pump ? I should get rid of the rear drum brakes. I read the r33 skyline has a diff ratio of 4.1. what are my options here. I read the 2L VL has a 4.1 open diff but Im wanting a lsd with disk brakes.. any ideas ?? I know theres heaps of options for the front brakes so thats easy enough. Looks like I have the rb30e with flywheel, clutch, manual gearbox, ecu and wiring for sale. Its still in my car running ( for now ) if anyone wants a looky. cars out of wof and reg on hold so cant really drive it.. Will add more questions + photos along the way. cheers all I'm doing the same conversion and have found out the following... Engine bolts straight in, but you have to use the RB30 mounts and bolt them to the 25 block. Pretty sure they only bolt on one way, but one of the 30 mounts goes into a different set of holes - but you'll figure it out! I just mixed and matched the RB25DET and RB30 gearbox mounts. Fits good, n o spacers needed. You really need to get under the car and check it out - it will become obvious when you're looking at it. I had a manual RB30, and the original driveshaft was about 30mm too short. I had it lengthened and the 25DET yoke welded on by a Driveshaft Specialsits NZ in East Tamaki - real good guy - knows his stuff - and well priced. Power steer lines do not mate up, but it depends which pump you have as to how difficult the mods are. There are at least two different power steer pumps set ups, my NZ assembled 3.0 manual had the V8 set up. The return line for power steering is simply a rubber hose which you can buy off the shelf at any parts store. The feed line is a high pressure one, and will need to be manufactured by a hose specialist. I had a custom hose made up by PG Hydraulics in East Tamaki - cost about $80. It has the 25 fitting on one end, the 30 end on the other. I've done the rear disk conversion - I simply swapped my drum end with a disk one - too easy. VL brakes are ****e, so spend money here. I have the VT conversion up front and slotted disks all round. Sticking with the 3.45 ratio diff for now, but an LSD is on the list. I think Steelie Gears in Otahuhu i the guy to see. Good luck on the wiring front - the 25DET loom is a mess - I'm no sparky, so I binned the standard loom and ECU and swapped it for a Link. Done. You'll need a new clutch master cylinder hose too - one end to fit the VL M/C the other to 25DET clylinder. Figure another $80 for this. Speedo requires a bit of shagging about too - there is an article in the tech section on how to do this! That's all I can think of right now - any questions just ask! Tom Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Probably wishing you turbod the rb30 now huh hehe Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Nah! Haha, I weighed up the pros and cons before I did the conversion, I was even considering a V8, but the 25DET was just too good to refuse. My 30 would've needed a motor and box rebuild, which would've added heaps to the cost. The 25DET comes standard with 205kW, so I would've had to have spent even more to get the 30 up to that power. At the end of the day I wanted a quick reliable daily that had at least 200kW,a and I'm pretty sure this was the most cost efficient way of doing it.

lol sorry tom i forgot all about you doing this conversion lol,sounds like fun,also alot more bolt on mods for the 25t like plenums,exhaust manifolds fuel rails etc,alot ofoff the shelf items compared to the handfull of rb30

tis easy to forget danny, it's been in progress for too bloody long!!

YES TRUE!finish it,i cant wait to see pics and build story

Quote: Originally Posted by RBwagon [View Post] I thought it would be easy .. thanks for the info mate. So no mod needed to run the rb25det box to d/shaft.... sweeet. did you do the wiring yourself? much involved ? I havnt looked into the electric side at all yet Hey dude I just thought I better but my 2 cents worth in as I have a 25det box behind my 30det you will have to get your driveshaft cut & the the yolk for the 25 one fitted as they are much much bigger but it will bolt up fine with the cross member, as for the diff,, well your car is a wagon then you can bolt in a *cough* vn *cough* sedan diff as they are common to have disk brakes & lsd, all you will need to do is get a 4;11 crown wheel & pinion fitted, only use a vn diff if your car is a wagon if its a sedan you will get massive guard rub.. as for the wiring give me a pm if you get stuck I have gone to a great deal of effort to get alot of info in english on the twin cam wiring, (its not hard to do) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

edit

That interior is to fricken die for... I hope the guy you got it from out in Howick doesnt find out what your doing to it, he'd probably cry Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

oh man i think i just died and went to heven,love that interior man,sooooo tidy,drrrrooooollllll.looks like you have all the gear to do a nice tidy conversion there, if it was me i would wait to you get the box in just to make sure,but thats just me,but if you can get someone than can give you some solid info that would be good enough,

Quote: Originally Posted by hsvsmurf [View Post] as for the diff,, well your car is a wagon then you can bolt in a *cough* vn *cough* sedan diff as they are common to have disk brakes & lsd, all you will need to do is get a 4;11 crown wheel & pinion fitted, only use a vn diff if your car is a wagon if its a sedan you will get massive guard rub.. thats all wrong man. Besides the fact you wont fit a sedan diff to a wagon (being VN, VL or whatever) there is abo****ley ZERO difference between the sedan/wagon rear guards. you will have the exact same problems fitting a vn diff in both sedan & wagon. if your doing it on a budget, you can fit a vn wagon diff, but you wont fit anything bigger than stock 205x65x15's, even they will scrub with passengers. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Psi_Wagon [View Post] thats all wrong man. Besides the fact you wont fit a sedan diff to a wagon (being VN, VL or whatever) there is abo****ley ZERO difference between the sedan/wagon rear guards. you will have the exact same problems fitting a vn diff in both sedan & wagon. if your doing it on a budget, you can fit a vn wagon diff, but you wont fit anything bigger than stock 205x65x15's, even they will scrub with passengers. Have you actually measured the with of a vl sedan & wagon diff? everyone ive ever talked to seems to be convinced the back end of a vl wagon is the same length is a vn sedan..

yes i have, ive gone through this a million times. vl sedan/wagon same length. vn sedan/wagon same length, wider than vl