hi. i have recently converted my na to turbo and its giving me the ****s what im running: std turbo fully reconditioned vlt comp vlt injectors N/a rail na plennum x over pipe no cooler 98 octane cometic head gasket i cannot lower the boost under 9 pd i take the actuator rod off and it still hits 9 (not straight away) im told it should make no boost with this rod off? and also a std trb should oly make 6 pd? WTF the engine will not stop pinging, will a cooler fix this? the spark plugs are ghost white (lean as) WTF! im almost certain some one else out there has had/ is having the same problem? My friend and i did our conversion at the same time and the only thing he did diff was the cooler, vlt plennum and rail, and adj fuell pressure reg. other wise everyting is exacly the same. please help ben

stnadard turbo's can make alot of different psi. mine which im pretty sure is a stock turbo is running about 12-14psi. i think your r running 9psi because it was an n/a meaning a higher compression. i think u should also be running a cooler just to be safe other people please confirm though

standard t3's should only be running 6psi i've been told numerous times. you using a boost controller? and or accurate gauge?

Quote: Originally Posted by patch i think your r running 9psi because it was an n/a meaning a higher compression. dont think so mate... also doesnt length of hose on acctuator sometimes make a difference to how much boost is made?

still hits 9 regardles of what i do my main question how do i get it to stop pinging though

Quote: Originally Posted by mulbz still hits 9 regardles of what i do my main question how do i get it to stop pinging though retard ur timing or get a cooler......

no boost controller im pretty sure the boost controller is accurate, i just only recently purcahsed the car, about a month ago so im not certian. sorry for misinforming thats why i aksed for other peoples opinions. soz

i cant put any timing into it its at like 5 degress and runs like a busted ass.

You have boost spike due to the cross over pipe and an NA bottom end. Std actuator should be at 7psi. Put a cooler on it for your own good and it will stop it spiking. Are you running it on 98 octane fuel? Is your initial timing set at 15 deg? Is your fuel rail pressure low and fuel pumps in good condition? We had an NA bottom ended car running a highflow with 10psi and fairly much everything else std bar fuel pump, cooler, plenum and had no present detonation.

Quote: Originally Posted by YEP_boost You have boost spike due to the cross over pipe and an NA bottom end. Std actuator should be at 7psi. Put a cooler on it for your own good and it will stop it spiking. Are you running it on 98 octane fuel? Is your initial timing set at 15 deg? Is your fuel rail pressure low and fuel pumps in good condition? We had an NA bottom ended car running a highflow with 10psi and fairly much everything else std bar fuel pump, cooler, plenum and had no present detonation. yes i brimmed it with 98 last night timing is at 5 deg not sure how to test my fuell rail pressure external pump is good not sure how to test the internal? i have the ****s any one bought one of these??? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Universal-TUR...QQcmdZViewItem (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campid=5335860158&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com.au%2FUniversal-TURBO-Intercooler-Intake-PIPING-KIT-VL-RB30_W0QQitemZ360039198677QQihZ023QQcategoryZ43807QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

get a gktech cooler kit.....

how much? were from?

They sell them for 550 to calaisturbo members. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...33#post1790233 (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=1790233#post1790233) Im getting one once I can get some money together

so you took the actuator rod completley off and it still hit 9 psi is the wastegate seized up or not opening properly.

Gktech is in the advertisers section on here, U either have a fuel or timing problem, as for boost compression doesnt make ne diff standard should b 6-7psi. if its still pinging on wat u think is 5 degrees i would b removing ur disy putting motor to tdc and refitting ur dissy back to base, checking ur timing belt marks are correct, 53 teeth from the right side of the cam mark to the mark on the crank. with this setup around 12-15 degrees base timing would b the goods, u also need to check ur fuel flow, simplest way id say is to swap fuel pumps out of ur mates cuz. but there are also flow test u can do as in how many litres of fuel u get by time. with a higher compression setup a cooler does help a great deal as does it with ne forced induction. u cold even b having air flow meter problems champ so u need to start ruling out things, but if ur not much of a wiz with testing things easiest answer is swap it with 1 u know works to test it. Even on a non intercooled n/a motor u should b able to run 9psi without detonation

Quote: Originally Posted by WPNVLT so you took the actuator rod completley off and it still hit 9 psi is the wastegate seized up or not opening properly. yes thats correct actuator rod compleatly off and stil hits 9 wate gate isnt seized.

Quote: Originally Posted by mulbz hi. i cannot lower the boost under 9 pd i take the actuator rod off and it still hits 9 (not straight away) im told it should make no boost with this rod off? and also a std trb should oly make 6 pd? WTF if you take the actuator rod off how is it makeing any boost at all ? 9 Psi. i would of thought you would nt of needed a cooler, not that its a bad idea but i dont think its gonig to fix your problem. What pump are you running ? what ECU ? N/A or turbo. At one stage i was running an N/A ECU years ago and it was **** all over the place flat spots, too rich down low to lean up top, just fuct.

Quote: Originally Posted by JET-64U Gktech is in the advertisers section on here, U either have a fuel or timing problem, as for boost compression doesnt make ne diff standard should b 6-7psi. if its still pinging on wat u think is 5 degrees i would b removing ur disy putting motor to tdc and refitting ur dissy back to base, checking ur timing belt marks are correct, 53 teeth from the right side of the cam mark to the mark on the crank. with this setup around 12-15 degrees base timing would b the goods, u also need to check ur fuel flow, simplest way id say is to swap fuel pumps out of ur mates cuz. but there are also flow test u can do as in how many litres of fuel u get by time. with a higher compression setup a cooler does help a great deal as does it with ne forced induction. u cold even b having air flow meter problems champ so u need to start ruling out things, but if ur not much of a wiz with testing things easiest answer is swap it with 1 u know works to test it. Even on a non intercooled n/a motor u should b able to run 9psi without detonation i know the timging is right have checed it als put a new timing belt on. i have a na calais also i have swapped ewverying over afm dizy o2 sensor still no luck so far every ting that ppl have sudgested i have done. Quote: Originally Posted by PHS if you take the actuator rod off how is it makeing any boost at all ? 9 Psi. i would of thought you would nt of needed a cooler, not that its a bad idea but i dont think its gonig to fix your problem. What pump are you running ? what ECU ? N/A or turbo. At one stage i was running an N/A ECU years ago and it was **** all over the place flat spots, too rich down low to lean up top, just fuct. thats the weird thing no actuator rod and it still makes boost WTF std fuel pump trb ecu ar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

without the rod it would make unlimited boost wouldnt it because nuthnb to open gate and release pressure?

no without the rod it would always be open