I know how they both work but whats the difference between the two in performance applications? Which is better for street? Which is better for strip?

A transbrake is "the ****" for the strip. For anyone who doesnt know how they work...... it holds 1st and reverse at the same time, you sit there loaded up (hard into the gas pedal) till you let the button go (that removes reverse). you still need a hi-stall for a braked trans. They are very hard on the box and fluid, but awesome. I wouldnt use one on the street myself......would be too tempting at the lights on a friday night I dont think you will ever launch as hard just with a Hi-stall. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i've been in a vlt in which we let the transbrake go on the street at 7k rpm. lets just say first into second into third within 2 secs and 2 x 50m+ black lines up the road on half throttle not touching the brake until he backed off. in simple terms, you will never get traction on the street with a transbrake (unless u have a really stock motor and then i would really be wondering y u had a transbrake in the first place but its fun!

How did he get to 7000 RPM, what converter did he have? You can "leave" with any amount of throttle and revs (provided the converter will go that high) so you could take off "O.K" on the street, but yeah, a bit of a waste....

Well the car will be my street and strip vehicle, weekend cruiser of course but yes, still good for both. I know I am asking heaps of questions about gearboxes but I just want to find out as much as possible about all options before I commit my hard earned cash to one. I dont wantt o be dissapointed. Ok, so a 7000rpm stallie/trans brake setup would be bouncing the valves (which sounds so cool) correct? Lets assume for the momenbt that my car has its engine finished, is pumping out enough ponies for a low 11's pass, what size stallie would we all reccommend for little PSI 86 to hook up sweet onthe street and at the strip? Or is it individual to every car with a number of variables needed to be taken into consideration? Sin - Traction aint my biggest concern on the street as *ahem, cough* "street racing is a dangerous activity and should not be condoned on this forum". :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

It depends on the size of the turbo / lag etc. I think with my new GT35 turbo the 3500 stall I have just fitted will be about right. I should be doin low 11's soon.

Hey, I'm after the same times as you Pete, what gearbox are you going to go, jatco or trimatic? VLT69 Scoota

scoota - going for a strengthened VLT Jatco 4 spd. Saw an add in Zoom for a gearbox shop in sydney that rebuilds them with a transbrake etc for around the same price as a trimatic beefed up or a C4. I'll find the number and post it. Best thing is you can keep overdrive. The guy said his VLT ran a 11.6 with it no probs and hes had it in for over a year.

if its about the same price as a trimatic y wouldn't u get a trimatic? hsvsux; not sure ... we have it on video but. tacho went to 7k when pressed the switch. terry if ur reading please feel free to elaborate ;)

i have it on video and it is released at 7k.

post the video Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

its not a mpeg

make it an mpeg heheh.. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Sin if its about the same price as a trimatic y wouldn't u get a trimatic? 1. The trimatic is the same price as the jatco but every g/box shop Ive talked to says the adapter kit for trimatics is another $1500-$2000 on top of the gearbox. Bellhouseing, crossmember etc. Money better spent elsewhere in my opinion if it doesnt need to be spent here. 2. Dont have to get the Jatco mod plated as it is OE on the VL. 3. 4spd is much better for highway cruising than a 3spd in anyones book. The car is going to be a road car as well as a strip car. Like I said, I am still deciding on boxes but the more info I find out the better it is for me and the car.

go to the rod shop trimatic conversion 500 bucks or speak to dragya hes selling a trimatic with the adaptor kit for that much cheers

Quote: Originally Posted by PSI 86 Quote: Originally Posted by Sin if its about the same price as a trimatic y wouldn't u get a trimatic? 1. The trimatic is the same price as the jatco but every g/box shop Ive talked to says the adapter kit for trimatics is another $1500-$2000 on top of the gearbox. Bellhouseing, crossmember etc. Money better spent elsewhere in my opinion if it doesnt need to be spent here. 2. Dont have to get the Jatco mod plated as it is OE on the VL. 3. 4spd is much better for highway cruising than a 3spd in anyones book. The car is going to be a road car as well as a strip car. Like I said, I am still deciding on boxes but the more info I find out the better it is for me and the car. Mate I run a Jatco 4speed with a 3,200 TCE stall and the auto was built by Raceglide's and I run a 3.9 ratio diff I personally reckon a 4 speed is **** house for highway cruising to be able to use overdrive "4th Gear" you have to be breaking the speed limit say if the speed limit is 100kph then if I'm to use 4th I have to speed up to 120kph mind you my speedo is a tad out too, I have to keep above the stall otherwise it will just slip and create heat which damages auto's. You can still damage a auto with a tranny cooler too so don't think by installing 1 or 2 tranny coolers you are going to save it from heat totally but it saves it a bit, better to have a cooler than no cooler, in the end it comes down to driveing style. I rarely use my overdrive and as far as I'm concerned a stall convertor bigger than 3,200 on the street is stupid and impracticle to drive not to mention all the expensive Optimax you will chew through because the engine will be reving harder. When this auto dies on me I'm going Tri-matic they are expensive but they can handle power alot better than the Jatco, and they have been proven on the strip, but once I go a Tri-matic my car won't be an everyday driver. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Much of a muchness I think. I have a 4000rmp stall with a 3 speed jatco and 4.11's and is the smoothest on the street as it has ever been. If I just cruise of drag it at the strip, it always feels good and the temp stays constant 180f unless it is a hot day a Willowbank after about 6 consecutive runs. Then I let it cool for 30mins and back I go. Mine is not a trailer sailer either. Drive it there and drive it back about 100k's each way.

Quote: Originally Posted by Red RB30 Jet Mate I run a Jatco 4speed with a 3,200 TCE stall and the auto was built by Raceglide's and I run a 3.9 ratio diff I personally reckon a 4 speed is **** house for highway cruising to be able to use overdrive "4th Gear" you have to be breaking the speed limit say if the speed limit is 100kph then if I'm to use 4th I have to speed up to 120kph mind you my speedo is a tad out too So exactly how many RPM are you doing sitting on 100kmh in 3rd with that diff ratio? Mines standard 3.45:1 and at 100kh, its sitting on 3000rpm. OD gear is good, I actually enjoy a bit more fuel economy. I use OD once the speed hits arund 90kh unless I am running someone. Now I dont really know how stallies work too well. Its seems everyone has a different opinion of how they work but the general consensus seems to be that they dont affect normal driving at all so why would your OD be "**** houe" on the freeway? From what I have read on this forum I would say that a stally only works when you arent moving and have it stalled up at the lights (christmas tree that is). Whether that true or not doesnt matter, from what Ive read its what I have been led to believe. If its wrong someone correct it.

My car sits on about 3,500-700 at 100kph with 3.9's in the rear around there my tacho would be out a little probably. The thing you have got to understand is with a Hi-Stall you must drive the car around above the stall rev range say if you have a 3,000 stall then to drive you must constantly keep the car above 3,000rpm other wise the stall will just slip as it's designed to do and create too much heat killing your auto once the stall is above the 3,000rpm rev range it is fully locked up and therefore does not have to slip. And regardless of what the road speed is say 60,80,90,100kph speed limits then the car must be driven above the 3,000rpm rev range and this means breaking the speed limit just watch out for cops and speed cameras. Overdrive is useless because of the speeds you pull to use it so it cruise's nicely say if the speed limit is 100kph on the freeway then you would be doing around 120-25kph speed to make use of the overdrive. Ever heard a high horsepowered V8 on the street with a 5,000 stall convertor they are bloody noisy I tell you because they are pulling revs above 5,000rpm so they can drive the bloody thing. You can drive under the stall but remember the convertor is just slipping until it reachs it's desired stall then it really puts all the power down. I run hi-stall covertors in 2 of my cars and I love them but really they are not designed for long distance driveing but around town they are fine. Most guy's with V8's select a hi-stall convertor that matches the cam, heads and diff ratio and wheel rim size it's all math's really, but with VLT's the standard cam can be used with a 3,200 stall convertor no worry's but to make use of the stall it's better to run a bigger or hi-flow turbo and have the diff ratio changed to a 3.9 or 3.7 ratio but a standard 3.45 ratio will work fine too, follow a receipe of what other people have achieved with their cars and you can't go wrong.

Something to think about. Thanx for the reply. Sounds like it would use a bit too much petrol for my liking, daily driver and all. I guess you cant have your cake and eat it too... *sigh*