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Vacationer + Turbo build

Started by ZOO222 · 19 Aug 2010 · 235 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

ZOO222Archived member
Been busy on this b1tch lately. Havnt managaed to sort out that exhuast yet though. Started off with some XYZ Racing coil overs. Sent some extra front struts i had down to Speedfactor in Tauranga to get customised with XYZ coil overs and the bolt in rear setup. In the process i destroyed my lower ball joint boots and a tie rod end, so put new ball joints in which proved to be a bloody mission even with a hydraulic press and new tie rod ends on both sides. the coil overs make a ridiculous differnce and im so glad i went through with it. Got a scarles turbo and bolted that on, wired in an innovate wideband and proceeded to road tune the car till it began billowing smoke and upon removal of the turbo the seals were gushing oil after an hour. Took turbo back and it got a warranty check which they sent off to steve murch, apparntly my oil drain hose wasnt oil rated and would of kinked when it heated up (no chance) and the oil drain fitting they supplied wasnt the correct length or bend so they are getting me a new one and i'm getting the turbo back sometime this week apparntly. Im putting the oil getting past the seals down to an embarrasingly rookie mistake of having my breather line blocked off which caused excessive crank case pressure. so the car went back to NA and i took it to pukekohe for a track day i helped organise. had an absolute blast and dont know why i waited so long to hit the track. thinking i might hit up a hampton downs playday session thing before christmas with the turbo bolted on and some new rubber for the rear to replace my useless sunnys.
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tubular2Archived member
primo !!!! good stuff going into your beast. be interested in 1/4 mile times with your turbo refitted. i cant wait to have a drive around a track. only been passenger at powercruise : (
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ZOO222Archived member
big time im keen as a bean to head to night speed drag wars at some point. will be good to see the differnce with an LSD and the new turbo pulls way harder then the factory 25det. even going at medium pace just learning the track was a blast. get onto it mate makes all the hard work worth it ! ---------- Post added 19-11-14 at 23:49 ---------- Some more pics of how it sits. Can go way way lower. Currently near the top of the range in the rear and middle in the front. And a picture of the bucket seat i put in for pukekohe. I got an extra pair of seat rails from Zebra and mounted it to those so it still slides and is fairly easy to get in and out.
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tubular2Archived member
far out thats low as already man. looks mean. i notice that you have got a different rubber for your front screen. i have been pulling my hair out at times over last few years with a leaking windscreen. so now my cars at panel beaters to sort out and i want to do the universal rubber install. is that what you used? also did you keep the internal wire beaded rubber around screen that keeps linings in place? mine has some rust on wire and i havent found one without rust yet.
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BigM22Archived member
Had this problem recently, there is no reproduced version of the window lace (that metal thing you're talking about) If you don't put it back in you'll have to glue your rooflining, and it won't look very nice to say the least Try and salvage it, clean it up, coat in whatever anti rusting agent you can find, a lot of people say fish oil is good? Something like that, some sort of oil haha I could be dreaming. And go the universal seal, much neater and will help keep water from getting in and causing rust
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PSIWPN NZArchived member
Looks mint man
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ss nutArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by BigM22 [View Post] Had this problem recently, there is no reproduced version of the window lace (that metal thing you're talking about) If you don't put it back in you'll have to glue your rooflining, and it won't look very nice to say the least Try and salvage it, clean it up, coat in whatever anti rusting agent you can find, a lot of people say fish oil is good? Something like that, some sort of oil haha I could be dreaming. And go the universal seal, much neater and will help keep water from getting in and causing rust Use por15 for the window lace,If possible find another lace,You might need two to make one,Let me know if struggle to get one. Cheers Marty
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tubular2Archived member
hi guys cheers for the response on this, i am onto my 3rd one already . (yes i had my window out now 4 times ((broke two on the way )) trying to sort this bloody leak. have used my tergo blackguard on it prior to window comn out 18mnths ago but when i pulled off yesterday it was not looking that cool. i will put up a post on for sale/wanted section because i am after a couple more items also. Cheers and sorry to hijack your great thread zoo222 Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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ZOO222Archived member
Went to a track day at pukekohe a few weeks ago. No incidents but the car ran like crap all day misfiring on boost that got worse the more boost you ran. I mucked with the ECU and managed to get some better performance out of it by adding some timing on boost but didnt want to push it to far also just got a bit of auction head rush on trademe but ah well at least its future proofing Link g4 xtreme Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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ZOO222Archived member
Winter has truly got me in no mood for car work but that doesn't mean progress has stopped. Should go nicely with the G4 and Blitz turbo. Am getting Danny to make me an exhaust manifold, front facing intake plenum and a surge tank. Next step is to source some injectors which im having a nightmare with. Dont know what injectors will fit the manifold holes etc Any help would be greatly appreciated, also whether or not it is necessary to upgrade the FPR. Cheers
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NZ VL comArchived member
what head? 30e? injectors are easily interchangeable but there are two kinds low impedance or high. the std 30e are almost 200cc 30et are 270cc, if your putting the link in you could any size really but over 500cc could get a bit hard to tune
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ZOO222Archived member
Yea 30e head. I'm going for larger then 500cc as I'm going to run a flex fuel sensor and have the ability for e85. Do you have any suggestions for fuel rails to take O ring injectors?
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ZOO222Archived member
Few updates underway. Danny has been hard at work in the shed fabbing up an exhaust manifold, dump pipe and catch can. I also dropped the fuel tank out to give it a clean out because im sure it is full of 25+ years of filth. So that will be getting a fresh coat of paint and while its off it makes it a lot easier to install the new fuel pump i got which is also a replacement for an ancient fuel pump but also to handle e85 as i am working towards a flex fuel setup. Meahwhile the front windscreen seal is being a pain in the ass. Going to try lift the seal up and fill it with sealant before last resort of pulling the windscreen Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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NZ_GTSArchived member
The windscreens are a pain. Mine leaks there two, even after a full rebuild and respray. Not quite that bad tho. I know a lot of people have this problem. Where did you get your fuel pumps from?
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BigM22Archived member
Good progress thus far besides that windscreen lol Hopefully it hasn't damaged any electrics!
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ZOO222Archived member
Got the fuel pumps and regulator from summit racing online store. So far mounted the DW200 to the tank mount, just had to trim the hardline back a little and wire it up. Got a nice surprise when i opened the tank and found the hose connecting the in tank pump disentegrated so it was just pushing fuel around in circles not towards the external pump. Ordered 1000cc Bosch Ev14 injectors, fuel rail and a CAS rebuild kit. Danny has made a surge tank so thats waiting, need to find some fuel lines, fittings and a filter. Yea the car is inside now and ive got a dehumidifier in it trying to get it dry as possible. Going to get some aircraft spec sealant and with the help of a mate lift the seal and lay a nice bead under the rubber seal in an effort to stop the leak. Boot is also rusty with a few bits looking like theyre going to become holes. Bit over whelming because I dont have the skills to fix it but a mate form work said he will give me a hand as he has done it before so hopefully that fixes that. Got the battery tray out to allow fitment of the front facing plenum too. Have to do something about that rust but shouldnt be to bad.
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PSIWPN NZArchived member
looking good man , coming along nicely.
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ZOO222Archived member
Minor update. Stopped being a little bitch and got into some rust repair. Bit of a hole that needs a patch but at least ive stopped or slowed its evil progress and can move onto getting my new setup together
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ZOO222Archived member
Dont know what im doing but im doing something Hiding passengerhead light loom Hijacking the aerial wiring hole Goodbye fuse box Can anyone point me in the right direction regards what to use to replace the sealant where the strut towers meet the guard. Also any tricks on covering the old loom holes ? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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NZ_GTSArchived member
Sikaflex will probably be the go for the strut towers. The loom holes should probably be welded, or you could make some sort of blanking plates. Non-air con models had bolt on plates to cover the air con holes. Or maybe you could find some rubber bungs from somewhere like Payless plastics or para rubber.
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