have you thought about doing a cam upgrade while your head is out?

how old the injectors u might wana get them flow tested

VLCT88- yeah i have to upgrade my AFM aswell then it will go back for a tune on a bit more boost. TUXEDO- i have thought about it but im not to keen on spending to much at the moment im saving for a overseas trip next year. what would a good cam be for a daily (tx2) and how much? group3t- not sure on the age and locky got em off another forum and hasnt used them so dount he knows either. where and how much is it to get them flow tested? ive just finished removing the head im gonna give the runners and plenum a clean up while its all off and probably paint the rocker cover wrinkle black. now i have to take the head some where to be faced does anyone have any recommendations?? also what is the best way to clean the head? i was thinking degreaser and a wire brush.

When I built the head in My old car, I had a standard cam reground by Wade to their 818 grind, I also got them to machine the lifter faces and lifter blocks and bought Crow Cams HD valve springs. It was about $700 all up from memory (probably a lot cheaper if You dealt directly with Wade cams). I highly recommend that grind. With cleaning Your head, if You're getting it faced, most places will acid dip it for no extra charge. You might aswell get them to change the valve stem seals while it's there, just supply them with the ones in your VRS kit to save a few $$

i dont have a VRS kit man. do i really need one? i only need the runners and exhaust manifold gasket. cheers locky the head looks to be in good nic aswell cant tell where it was leaking.

ahk well, normally to get a head cleaned, tested and faced will be about $110 but just get a few prices. A VRS kit will also have plenum gasket, dump to down pipe gasket, valve stem seals, rocker cover gasket and screw rubbers etc. etc. Just Heads on Port rd, Beverley will do it cheaper for cash Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ok thanks alot mate ill call them or go there on monday.

i got my head back from just heads today it ended up costing 100 cash for a clean and face. when i picked it up he told me when i have it back on that i should get it to running temp with just tap water in the cooling system then to drain it and put coolant in. something about the coolant being thinner does this make sense to anyone? ---------- Post added 13-04-11 at 21:48 ---------- spent this morning cleaning the gasket off of the runners i reckon it was the standard one because it didn't want to come off i ended up getting gasket remover and that helped but it was still hard it would only come of in the tiniest little bits at a time. i also picked up a new intake gasket kit,exhaust headers gasket and new standard head bolts. also fitted the GTR injectors to the fuel rail ready to fit to the runners and this is what my bay looks like now. ill probably try and clean up some of the hoses and wires while its all apart and easier to work on. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yes his right we do it on all our engines at work. Oh an its not because coolant is thinner either bud.

whats the reason behind it mate?

it's got something to do with 'baking' the gaskets in I beleive.

ah right. ---------- Post added 15-04-11 at 15:43 ---------- i spent a few hours this morning on it before work i bolted the runners onto the head and put the head back on then bolted the exhaust manifold back on and the timing belt pulley. im going to spend all day on it tomorrow so hoping to get alot of it finished if not complete and running again. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i got it all back on and running today but it doesnt wanna run very well im pretty certain it has something to do with a solenoid looking thing at the back of the runners with 2 vac hoses 1 going to the plenum 1 going to the fuel reg. if anyone can help let me know asap. here is a thread i have started about the problem vvvv. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=230452

Quote: Originally Posted by vlwagz [View Post] whats the reason behind it mate? From what i was taught mate its because coolant is kind of like an oil, An apparently sometimes on its 1st run the gasket may let a little bit of water seep through it. Now this is fine because once the engine has been driven an turned off and heated an cooled an the gaskets had time to bed in, That little bit of water will have evaporated and allowed it to seal. Where coolant wont evaporate leaving an oily residue an not allowing your head gasket to seal. Sorry for the long explanation bud haha. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Are You sure the timing belt didn't jump a tooth on the crank?

cheers vlturbo33. im pretty certain it didn't locky because i zip tied it so the belt was pulled up tight. sean (pumba) came around with his nistune software and cable we managed to get it to idle but not drive so i have bought a jecs z32 AFM and its going to boostworx on tuesday to be retuned. here are a few pics of it all back together few more things i wanna do under there to neaten it up but its almost neat enough for me. haha Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

fitted the z32 AFM today. down under the radiator so its hidden and another bay pic because i took one. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nice job. so what was the wiring setup like?

dunno mate i couldn't find anything so ive left it, shaun at boostworx is gonna do it for me.

bay looks good mate