no difference you just have to change orange wiring on drivers side in engine bay... search for it there was details somewhere on how to do it..

Quote: Originally Posted by ss181 [View Post] Gday All i need a few ideas please. I have brought someones project. VL Calais S1 86 with S2 engine I got it knowing that it had no spark, so i put a new CAS in i noticed the Fuel pump wasnt priming and ECU had no power which was the 2 pink wires(s1 S2 wiring issue) which i now have fixed and now have fuel pumping and power. I then had the nuetral switch delima which i think is now fixed. So i have fuel spark and power but the bloody thing just wont start i have reverse lights and have bridged the purple wires near the battery and a manual loom to gearbox as far as i can see there is no alarm or any other missing relays earths or fuse issue.. has anyone got any idea?? other wise its a call to the auto elec. hey the when i did my conversion over christmas i had the series 1/2 issue which was stopping priming, and the only other thing would not let it start was the neutral switch so id check the neutral switch as once thats bridged the starter motor should fire other wise check the wiring from the starter it self and check nothing is loose or undone, hope this can be of some sort of help.

After several months or reading and trying to get understanding of wiring i finally got my vl up and running it turns out that some of the relays had **** them selves

so the auto flywheel bolts wont fit the manual flywheel?

i end up getting bolts anyhow, the spigot bush was a pain to get out, grease and a punch didnt work, and up die grinding two edges and collapsed it, hopefully car will be running tomorrow...

When changing to the r33 box can you use your auto x-member or do I need a mx7 or mf5 x-member? Everywhere I read someone will say "yeah bolts straight on" then others say that there totally different. Cheers

How can I tell if my box is an r33 or a stock 5 speed?

http://i25.tinypic.com/10glmc1.jpg I did this but cut the plug that goes into this off the auto loom and pulled out all the wires from the back except these 2 that need to be bridged. I then soldered these 2 wires together at the back on the plug and then taped them and plugged this back into the loom as it was when the car was auto. The car started perfect after this. If yours doesnt prehaps the wiring for reverse is wrong and interfering with this.

Hey all. I no this is an old thread but does anyone have a pic of the manual spigot and how it looks when fitted? Trying to decide if I have been given the wrong one or not. Getting auto locator/spigot out is proving easier said than done too.

The manual spigot will look pretty much like this; It goes in the back of the motor where the input shaft from the gearbox goes. The easiest way to get the auto spigot out is to get a socket that fits into the auto spigot, pack the auto spigot with grease, hold the socket over the auto spigot and try to line it up centre but don't push it all the way in, and then hit the socket with the hammer to push the old spigot out. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Hi guys I'm doing a auto NA to Manual R33 conversion next week. I believe I have everything but I have a few questions. 1, can I still use my auto speedo cable, or do I need a mx7 one? 2, do I use a mx7 hydraulic clutch line (from clutch master to slave cylinder) Or do I have to get something custom made up? Is it long enough? Does it fit on the r33 slave cylinder? 3, if using the auto or mx7 speedo cable, do I need the 90 degree adaptor on the speedo pinion? 4, lastly, do I need the manual floor pan? Any info will be a big help. Thanks

Just finished reading through this fantastic (now 13 page) thread. Together you have successfully talked me out of fixing my auto box situation (slipping like a greased up snake on ice) by any other means than fitting one of its manual counterparts not that it seems absolutely necessary but any more and/or newer info would be great Some original photos have not been recovered yet.