check out page 5 of this thread.. i think most people run the r33 carriers.

the answer is on here, more then likely even in this thread, i've read it myself.

For the people having difficulty getting a hold of these boxes, I found this place: http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/prod_panels/1 They sell all RB boxes from apparently $1250, as complete manual conversion kits. Not sure exactly what they want for a R33DET box. They also sell shifters for $150.

Thank you!

For anyone wondering Nissan still sell the MX7 speedo drive. The part number is 32702-02G17 and the MX7 shifter bush part numer is 32861-01G00 The speedo drive is $41 and the bush is $9

Just did the conversion as well. Can buy a clutch slave from Nissan too... The one I bought was smaller than the VL one so it made the pedal pressure a bit harder, but was just after a quick fix to get me to the summernats.

better pedal feel anyway (albiet with a heavier feel) with the smaller slave, atleast the pedal can be adjusted lower and more on/off without the long excessive travel. changed my mx7 vl slave to the smaller r31 item, same bore as r33 has standard.

So.... Just confirming - R33 yoke can be adapted to VL tailshaft? Also Ive read R32 shifter fits same as R33 shifter? Well the VL NA shifter fits the R32 RB20 boxes, so I could just use an MF5 shifter but change the bush on the end??

im just wondering if i buy the new turbo yoke from hardy spicer can i just pull the yoke off my na tail shaft and put the new 1 straight on? or does something else need to be done?

That's all you need to do.

Hey guys I'm planning on doing this conversion in the next few months or so, and I've read through this thread a million times, but I just want to confirm a few things so I can start buying the parts for it and try have everything ready so I can do the whole lot in one go on a spare Saturday or something (probably not guna happen tho : ) I will be converting it (the Calais) from N/A Auto to R33 RB25DET Manual, so the following is my plan of attack: 1) Buy an r33 rb25det manual box (make sure it comes with shifter, slave cylinder, clutch fork and carrier), an r33 rb25det clutch Kit (includes clutch plate, housing/diaphragm, and thrust bearing - I'm thinking of an Exedy, either a Heavy Duty one or a 5-puk - what do you guys think?). 2) Also I'll need an MF5 tailshaft (do I need the MF5 centre bearing or will my auto one work?),an R33 yoke, an MF5 sandwich plate, MF5 flywheel with the manual flywheel bolts, MF5 spigot bush. 3) And a VL clutch pedal and manual brake pedal, a VL clutch master cylinder (I'll sort out the clutch line once I have the master cyl and the slave cyl so I can see if the VL one will fit), VL manual gearbox surround (interior), MX7 speedo drive. I think that's it for the parts. Now for my questions: a) Can I use my auto speedo cable (with the MX7 speedo drive)? or do I need to get an MF5 cable and put the MX7 speedo drive on that? b) What are these Neutral/Reverse switches? I'd guess the reverse one is for the reverse lights but what about the neutral one? and what am I supposed to do with them when converting from auto to r33 manual? c) From what I've read, the Auto Gearbox crossmember will fit, it'll just bolt in a different position. but I don't think anyone's mentioned the actual gearbox mount (the rubber thingy). can I use my Auto one? and could I just use my Auto bolts to bolt the gearbox crossmember and mount? d) With the clearance that is between the r33 box and the floor, what thickness are the spacers that you guys have used, and what exactly have you used as spacers? e) Can I use the Auto bellhousing bolts for the R33 box? That's all I can think of at the mo, if you guys could check thru everything and correct me where I'm wrong, and answer my questions, that will be much appreciated. cheers, Sam Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Not too sure about the auto driveshaft, but an engineer mate of mine is modifying my manual driveshaft (needed lengthening) and fitting it with the skyline yoke. You will need a custom clutch master cylinder hose (skyline fitting is different) figure about $70 for this. Reverse switch switches the reverse lights on and off. Not 100% sure on the function of the neutral safety switch, but I wired it up anyways. I used my RB30 manual gearbox mounts on the skyline box, unsure if the auto one differs, but you'll soon find out when ya under the car! The crossmember just bolts into the other set of bolt holes that you will see in the floor pan. I didn't need any spacers with my box, but it is pretty tight in the trans tunnel (no touching tho) Needed about 3 or 4 long extensions on my ratchet to do up the top bellhousing bolts tho!!!

What box are you running NZ GTS ? In post #6 on the first page it says = All VL gearbox crossmembers are the same. even auto - manual. its only the gearbox mounts off the crossmember that differ. The MF5 or MX7 crossmember will bolt straight up to the skyline box. The Spacers are needed on the MX7 and R33 boxes. Without them the box hits on the floorpan under hard acceleration. they also provide more clearance around the speedo drive area

The big skyline box. I had no issues mounting my box, just mixed and matched bits and pieces. It's really obvious when ya lookin at it, just hard to explain... Still yet to accelerate anywhere though... Looks to be plenty of space around the speedo drive area, just need an MX7 drive now. Box has least clearance around the top of the bell housing - there would have to be some serious movement for anything to touch though.

I will give my opinion on your comments tomorrow madrx3boy when I have sobered up. Ok. 1) Your clutch choice is inconsequential to your conversion, as long as it's an RB clutch (9.5" N/A Vl or any Skyline would be preferable over a 10" VLT unit). What clutch you choose depends entirely on your power and application. Speak to a clutch expert and see what they recommend. 2) An MF5 tailshaft will come with the centre bearing already fitted. All you need to do is change the yoke to an R33 item, available from Hardy Spicer for ~$100. 3) A VL clutch master cylinder is fine, bot for the slave cylinder you will need an R33 item, as the bolting pattern on the bellhousing differs to the VL item (two bolts on one side, as opposed to one bolt on either side). Some people have issues in getting their stock clutch lines to connect easily between the VL and R33 clutch master and slave cylinders; I will standby my ongoing recommendation to every one to take both cylinders to a clutch or brake specialist and get a custom braided hose made up that fits perfectly on both ends. Do it once, do it right. a) Auto speedo cable is fine. b) To be honest, I've no idea what the neutral switch is supposed to do exactly. My guess is there is some degree of similarity between the auto and manual body harnesses of VLs, and the manual neutral switch is supposed to trick the car into thinking it is always in neutral (allowing you to operate the starter motor); however, when converting to manual it never works like that. Either the auto selector switch needs to be rewired, or the relay behind the battery. There is information in the Auto to Manual Thread (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=74074) about making your own loom. c) The auto crossmember will not fit. They are different. And yes, they will bolt to a different set of holes on the floor pan (you'll see them immediately when you remove the old crossmember). The rubber mounts are the same between auto and manual. d) Not sure about the clearance, but it shouldn't be an issue, with this many people putting R33 boxes into their VLs. As for spacers (where required), thick washers should do the job, just big enough to go over the bolt and create a good "footprint' for the crossmember to push against. e) That's a good question. I was provided with OG manual bellhousing bolts, but there wasn't enough. So I have a combination. It's never been an issue; while you're there, you'll see which ones will and won't fit. There is only one bolt that's an issue, and it's because there is no thread on either side (engine or bellhousing); it requires a nut.

ok thanks for the info guys, it should help a lot. Just a little confused with the driveshaft tho, NZ_GTS you said you needed yours lengthened (as well as putting the R33 yoke on), but I havent read anywhere else in the thread that it needs to be lengthened?

The auto shafts 100% need to be lengthened, not sure on the MF5 shafts

MF5s are the correct length, they simply need the yoke changed for the R33 item. The auto tailshaft is noticeably shorter.

ok sweet as, thanks guys

Does everyone have problems getting to the upper bell housing bolts? i used a ring spanner on mine from the engine bay, ratchet ring spanner would be even easier again.