Quote: Originally Posted by ledouche [View Post] i cut it then did the slot as shown as the master cylinder looked nicer not having spacer i think the hardest part bout the whole thing was getting to one of the booster bolts that go through the firewall it was just in prick of a spot other then that i love how it stops now even though im still repin drums on the back Sweeet thanks mate... appreciate it .. now i can get the car of the stupid jack stands its been on for 2 weeks now...

got around to doing this today... those 2 firewall bolts..... FML!!! 45 min the first time in the dark with my iphone light tryna get to them... 2 questions before i decide to bleed these brakes... 1--with the very first post i understand what needs to be done... but why cant u just cut the bolt of? 2--the resi i have on there is surpisingly very clean i did happen to get a for au one which previously ppl have mentioned fit straight on... do u have to change it or?

1- if u mean the push rod bolt that goes into the back of the master cylinder i think u leave it there for extra strength as other wise it will be hollow. 2- cant help u with this as i used vs resi and redrilled the hole that holds it on

yeh thats what i mean... things pretty strong yeh just the vt is like.. Brand new CLEAN the au is digusting lol

oh well u can use vt just doesnt sit level it slants back or forward one of the two

Hey all a great amount of info here. Ive upgraded my VK with 330mm rotors and calipers at the front and ive also put a VT booster and cylinder on it, the pedal feels great but im just not getting the car to lock up, it just slows down. The pedal is fine until you try to lock it up and its really soggy at the end where it locks up. Its really annoying me now as ive bleed the brakes with a compressor fitting like a mechanic and bleed them manually also. Has anyone else come across this problem? The booster seems ok and no leaking or noises and holding vacuum, the master cylinder is fine also visually no leaks. Any info would be great Thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by Grant1000 [View Post] Hey all a great amount of info here. Ive upgraded my VK with 330mm rotors and calipers at the front and ive also put a VT booster and cylinder on it, the pedal feels great but im just not getting the car to lock up, it just slows down. The pedal is fine until you try to lock it up and its really soggy at the end where it locks up. Its really annoying me now as ive bleed the brakes with a compressor fitting like a mechanic and bleed them manually also. Has anyone else come across this problem? The booster seems ok and no leaking or noises and holding vacuum, the master cylinder is fine also visually no leaks. Any info would be great Thanks have u changed the master over as well or? still the orignal vk one?

I have just finished doing this conversion to my vh. The only problem I had was after I redrilled the rod on the brake booster and refitted it I found that the brake pedal was too low. I bought another brake booster and fitted it without drilling the rod. The brake pedal now sits flush with the accelerator pedal. Every thing is now fine.

Quote: Originally Posted by keith ree [View Post] I have just finished doing this conversion to my vh. The only problem I had was after I redrilled the rod on the brake booster and refitted it I found that the brake pedal was too low. I bought another brake booster and fitted it without drilling the rod. The brake pedal now sits flush with the accelerator pedal. Every thing is now fine. Hey mate. I also made the same mistake as this.. I felt pretty stupid but at least the booster was $30 & not a reco or something. You do not have to drill the pushrod when using a VS brake booster, you only need to do the mod to the master cylinder end. Only on the VT booster conversion.

Quote: Originally Posted by jbonez [View Post] Hey mate. I also made the same mistake as this.. I felt pretty stupid but at least the booster was $30 & not a reco or something. You do not have to drill the pushrod when using a VS brake booster, you only need to do the mod to the master cylinder end. Only on the VT booster conversion. I think I should have shopped around a little more for a booster. $88 x 2.

I picked up a master cylinder the other day, and the one thing I noticed which I can't find being mentioned here is that the line to the rear appears to be a larger diameter than those to the front. What's the general go with this, Is the appropriate adapter also meant to deal with this?

yup the adapter kits that you can buy from hopper stopper or race brakes have the 2 smaller ones for the fronts and the bigger one for the rear line.

I got the adapter lines from Slacks creek brake and clutch in Brisbane (might be called logan there?) Was a total of $22 for all 3 with copper washers. Part no. BQ40A (For front brakes so you need 2) BQ184 (rear brakes)

I got a mobile guy out to reflare and rebend the brake lines (no adaptors needed). Cost $50.

getting the vt vx vy booster on the vl fierwall and the brake peddle hieght wright pic 1 vl booster has the 4 bolt bracket back to 2bolts (2 bolts to fierwall) pic 3 vt vx vy booster no extension bracket 4bolts (4 bolt to fierwall)needs mod the easy safest way:ie my best bet get 2x vl mounting brackets cut in half one cut close to the 4 bolt end the other cut closer to the 2 bolt end weld brackets together 10mm longer on the inside and outside very strong and pritty much cant tell i also welded a plate across top and bottom 3mm thick 10mm high add a little srtenght as its a mod it can be done with no 10mm spacer and not moding the bracket well ( other than some bending and hole fiddling) but will need to drill new hole to brake peddle push rod (centre of hole to centre of hole 10mm lower) and may look a little like this ( -OO- ) lol but yeh pic 2 vs booster (plastic) same as vl but very differant looking 2 bolts bolts to fierwall (same)no mod needed to mount to fierwall or brake peddle but needs mod to master cylinder pushrod :ie cutting screw off flush if not done mastercylinder will not fully return and brakes will eventualy lock on (plus if you look you can see its not quiet wright when you bolt it up to the booster and you have to pull it in with the nuts ) but ive seen people just tighten things up!! the master cylinder should sit flush against booster without having to do up nuts very important as a tinny bit of pressure will eventualy cause the brakes to dragg on or lock up (not letting master cylinder return fully) can get the same thing from no play in brake peddle rod (under steering wheel) also note that this rod has a rubber pad it sits on inside the booster if you loose the rubber pad /disc it inside the booster a blow flie will land on your brake peaddle and they will lock up very touchy brakes some brake places years ago used to do a mod with polly ones amazing but true little thing make big changes Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by sherman89 [View Post] I got the adapter lines from Slacks creek brake and clutch in Brisbane (might be called logan there?) Was a total of $22 for all 3 with copper washers. Part no. BQ40A (For front brakes so you need 2) BQ184 (rear brakes) Just confirming. these are the line adaptors that screw into the master cylinder and the vl lines then screw into them?? just need to know before i order some this week.

Yeah thats correct... They just screw in and then you screw the lines in to the adapters on the master cylinder.. You will get a little bit more room getting the lines flared properly and a cleaner install in my opinion they make the lines stick a fair way out from the master

Quote: Originally Posted by jbonez [View Post] Yeah thats correct... They just screw in and then you screw the lines in to the adapters on the master cylinder.. You will get a little bit more room getting the lines flared properly and a cleaner install in my opinion they make the lines stick a fair way out from the master I'm dropping in a rb30/25 in just a few months using the standard rb25 intake manifold. reckon the lines will come too close using the adaptors? just trying to figure out the best way about it. Anyone have numbers of places in brisbane that do the line re-flaring cheap?

You should be okay with a standard plenum rb25.. pretty sure I had them on with one at one stage If you took the lines out be cheap as send insanevl a message he just had it done for $50 on the northside Im guessing

As we all know when you fit the VT booster and master cylinder to the VL the factory bracket that secures the front of the master cylinder to the strut tower stoping the unit rising under braking pressure no longer fits. So thers alot of us driving around with nothing holding the unit down. Im currently studying mechanical engineering and as part of an assesment am producing this part to specificaly fit VL's with this modification. What i would like to know is if there is any intrest in this part to justify producing it.