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How to adapt the VT Master Cylinder to early model Commodores

Started by RB30-POWER · 13 Apr 2008 · 339 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

PSI086Archived member
I can 99% vouch that a EL Falcon reservoir is a direct bolt up to the VT master cylinder also. Fits perfectly and the retaining bolt hole doesn't need redrilling. Just nned to confirm the fluid level is fine once the car is sitting flat on the ground again
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OBT100Archived member
Had some guys asking for pics, dodgey as its installed: First pic is the side view of the vl/vp bracket(left hand side) welded to the spacer in pic 3(taken from page 1 of this thread, mine was identical 10mm thick) And that assembly bolted to the vt booster. Middle pic is the line adapters and standard turbo master bracket bolting straight to the vt master.
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QIK03LArchived member
which bracket do you use to bolt the booster to the fire wall ? do you keep the standard vl booster bracket or use the vs one ? id figure the vs one because it is designed for the vs booster.. cheers
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NZMikeArchived member
Ordered myself a VT Master cylinder and a VS brake booster last week. I picked up the parts today to find that they gave me a VT Brake booster :-S. So now I have the option to send it back or modify the vt one to suit. What do you guys recommend?
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markovrArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Bro_Speed [View Post] As we all know when you fit the VT booster and master cylinder to the VL the factory bracket that secures the front of the master cylinder to the strut tower stoping the unit rising under braking pressure no longer fits. So thers alot of us driving around with nothing holding the unit down. Im currently studying mechanical engineering and as part of an assesment am producing this part to specificaly fit VL's with this modification. What i would like to know is if there is any intrest in this part to justify producing it. If you use a old front bracket from the old twin diaphram booster and use a vl modded booster bracket that has the booster pushrod hole moved nearly a full hole forward.... it lines straight up with a small spacer washer.
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AngstvormArchived member
Just done the VT front caliper conversion on my VS with the VT master cylinder brakes aren't very good can push peddle right down car take's way to long to pull up! Iv'e bled all 4 lines any idea's.
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gilbo-333Archived member
Anyone done this conversion with a v8? How did you go with clearance between the booster and drivers side rocker cover?
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gilbo-333Archived member
If anyone is having trouble finding brake line adaptors, i just got a set from race brakes sydney for $60 delivered..
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t-ravArchived member
I also have done this mod . Pedal feel is awesome Breaking power was less than amazing but this may be due to terrible rotors and pads .. It also feels as tho the rear breaks are engaging late I put the car up on stands and let it run through the gears and when I applied the breaks they don't engage early enough in my opinion . Would there be any reason apart from air in the lines
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NZ_GTSArchived member
Front brakes do most of the work, so don't expect the rears to clamp as hard as the fronts. Whether there should be a delay in their action or not, I wouldn't have thought so. Have you reconditioned the rear rotors? Maybe pull them off and make sure the pistons can be pushed in without too much effort (using a pad spreader or a g-clamp), as there is a chance they might be seizing up. Otherwise just try bleeding them again.
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PSI086Archived member
Finally got my car on the road again and have to say I'm very impressed with the stopping power. The set up consists of a VX SS booster and master cylinder (not sure if V6 is the same?), series 6 RX7 front calipers and braided flexible lines
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N_pulsarArchived member
Hey Why don't you just use the reserviour that came with the VT master? Any reason?
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PSI086Archived member
The angle is wrong as the whole assemble sits flat on the vt and not layed back like in the vl
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CJWArchived member
Just a bit of warning to those doing this mod by cutting/slitting the adjuster screw in the end of the master cylinder and screwing it in rather than using a spacer. Ensure that even when it is screwed in flush, or even a little indented that your master cylinder piston is fully retracted when the brake pedal is released, mine wasn't. It might have been due to manufacturing tolerances etc. It took me ages to trace it as it was only the tiniest of amounts and to be honest daily driving you might not even notice it. However my setup is on a circuit car and given the brakes get enormously hot having poor to non existent pad retraction due to this issue was not pretty haha. I ended up fabbing up a 2mm spacer to take care of the issue. I've never seen it mentioned before so mine could be a one off but it's just something to keep an eye out for. FYI. I run this setup with VT twin piston fronts on 330mm rotors and Carbon ceramic track pads and the stopping power is ridiculous.
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3lturboArchived member
When fitting the VT-VZ booster (and master) why can't you just drill four holes on the firewall to mount it, rather than making an adaptor?
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PSI086Archived member
The later model bracket sits on the wrong angle
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markovrArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by 3lturbo [View Post] When fitting the VT-VZ booster (and master) why can't you just drill four holes on the firewall to mount it, rather than making an adaptor? Standard vt booster doesn't use any bracket so if you redrilled the firewall apart from not having any reinforcing inside from holes that line up in the pedal box to take the pressure ,the pushrod would be way too long...in the engine bay the actual booster would probably foul on any thing that protrudes from firewall the place where the metal panel meets at the top
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l67calaisArchived member
i fitted VT booster VT master and VT front calipers. pedal is soft. goes right down before i have any brakes. do i need to change my rear calipers also?
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5LEEPRArchived member
What order did u bleed the brakes?
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l67calaisArchived member
furthest to closest. then got a work shop to bleed it.
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