ah a GKtech yup i wouldnt mind one of those...when i finally get round to building a turbo motor of course. but surely its possible to modify any kit without too much hassle to fit another car...and make it to be a 'no holes' one. if i was to do that i would start with a skyline kit and adapt it to suit. with that gktech kit, do you know how the path of the pipes run compared to a normal one? i know it would go around the body but where exactly?

Quote: Originally Posted by madrx3boy with that gktech kit, do you know how the path of the pipes run compared to a normal one? i know it would go around the body but where exactly? http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=87210

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ EVLHSV http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=87210 i've seen that thread before, but now that i've had a closer read of it... cheers mate Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ EVLHSV Hang on a minute, he's converted to Calais spec and sprayed it in a non factory colour, so why care about a couple of holes in the engine bay? Chopping the body up is a bit more serious than things that can be undone (I think it needed a respray anyway).

It's pretty easy to weild up a few holes if your worried about it later... rolling your guards is harder to put back to stock than that EVLHSV has a 4" hole for the intake pipe Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Mine has a pretty good sized hole for the intake too lol, for an N/A 3L And I want rolled guards, 255s look goood. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Irontusk Just stick a clutch lever on the gear shifter (Although that'd be another problem.. you use your left hand for accelerating/braking don't you? Hill starts would be interesting) Might need to build up some serious wrist and hand strength to deal with a car clutch though Nah man, right hand for accel/brake, left hand for steering. can you imagine the adaptions needed to make a decent clutch work off a hand lever... if i did then id bypass a clutch and go for a sequential!! wouldnt be worried about wrist strength, all men have a decent amount of that!! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Rollin Nah man, right hand for accel/brake, left hand for steering. can you imagine the adaptions needed to make a decent clutch work off a hand lever... if i did then id bypass a clutch and go for a sequential!! wouldnt be worried about wrist strength, all men have a decent amount of that!! I use a hand clutch all the time Just the difference is it's a much smaller clutch with much lighter springs. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Irontusk I use a hand clutch all the time Just the difference is it's a much smaller clutch with much lighter springs. And about 4500cc less capacity on the motor?!?! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

VS was also available in 9C1

I managed to snap the bleeder bolt on the inlet manifiold, and my brother and I tried to use easy outs, reverse drillbits etc but just ended up f*cking it up beyond all recognition. I have 2 RB30s, how hard is it to swap the manifold over? My brother recons it will be easier to pull the motor out and do the cambelt, water pump, oil seals etc at the same time? My brother has a truck with a crane on it at his work and has pulling out and dropping in RB30s down to a fine art, this will be our third time doing it. Thoughts?

go for it if you have the $$ to reco it it would be the way to go -as for the plenum I've read it's easy there's two bolts that are underneath that are hard to get or find or something then tap it with a rubber mullet to loosen it off

manifold is easy man,undo the brace holding the manifold on the botton,disconnect the fuel lines and the engine loom and undo the bolts on the head and your done,the bolts on the head arnt that tricky

Is it the top bleeder or the bottom? top is easy, as you just have to seperate the two halves and replace the top. You dont need to pull the engine, it will just create more work for you, there is ****loads of room in VL engine bays, you only need to lift the motor if your doing the sump, even then you dont have to lift it far. timing belt, coolant pump etc is easy as with the radiator removed.

Are drive shafts the same for turbo and n/a ?

Pretty sure they are Mr Vincent

I always thought the MX7 tail shaft differ from the MF5 (n/a) different size boxes??? This may not be correct tho Does anyone know how i can 'TEMP' remove my alarm setup. The missus put my keys through the wash. If i just remove the 12V power wire to the alarm unit, would i be able to drive the car until i get a new remote, Then just rewire the 12V on the alarm unit and be done??? Cheers guys, Spent all weekend putting it back together and forgot about the damn remote.

Quote: Originally Posted by VlDUBC Has it ever been done? Search the user Richie$$ and look at his LS1 turbo build thread

Quote: Originally Posted by SIKVLT go for it if you have the $$ to reco it it would be the way to go -as for the plenum I've read it's easy there's two bolts that are underneath that are hard to get or find or something then tap it with a rubber mullet to loosen it off Cheers for the heads up about the plenum. Only 117000 kms on the clock so the old girl is still good for a few more km's!! And the spedo actually works unlike my other 3 VLs!

What are they main things i should check on the motor when looking at buying a stock vl turbo?