200 psi at the fuel rail when car is on.

Fleas - try 200KPa ... to rule out fuel, do a flow test on the system. get container and mark on it at 1.5L, bypass the fuel pump relay by simply bridging relay pins 30 & 87 on the relay holder after you have removed it. A few spade connectors with an inline 10A fuse will do. If you get it wrong, you could well need a new ECU, so don't. As soon as you bridge the relay holder pins the pumps will turn on without ignition key so be ready. now after you ave confirmed the pumps do turn on, remove the bypass fused wire and its time to remove the fuel line inbetween the regulator and the fuel rail. it will help to have a 1 or 2 mtre length of hose to connect to the rail and the other end in your fuel safe measuring container. bypass the pump relay and use a timer to check for exactly one minute. test the flow, should be atleast 1litre or something is wrong. if the fuel doesn't flow out with out airbubbles then, either low on fuel or the intank pump is most likely the fault. if the pumps don't make a nice smooth buzzing sound then something is wrong also with them. Could be fuel, could be suction blockage, or split hose on the intank pump sucking in fumes not liquid. Let us know how much the pump flowed and I can also tell you how much power can be made with it.

Quote: Originally Posted by wlk21 [View Post] haha yeh one step ahead of ya, a couple of weeks ago i pulled the lead off the coil just enough to see if the spark would jump across and yep sure did, i got a nice belt out of doing that too lol so yeh i've changed all things to do with spark, coil, ecu, pt, and lead going from coil to dizzy...ive got a new set of leads on the way but i doubt thats going to solve things tbh. so i don't know what else there is to do really...got a new set of injectors to plug in but whats the point if i can see it aint sparkin..just tried the spark test again and it sparks once when you first turn the key then nothing. i'll be extrememly pissed if this is some sort of a wiring problem. ---------- Post added 23-01-13 at 14:47 ---------- ohh and i've done the diagnostics mode with the ecu and it throws out an ignition circut fault which doesn't really narrow things down enough. Lol yea it wakes u up ! If u are getting a good spark from the coil it would have to be cap & rotor . When u swap the dizzy s are u using the same cap ? Inthe centre of the cap there should be a spring loaded piece of carbon sorta thing . Is that still ther ? Try new cap + rotor . Good luck . I think u can lean away from fuel pressures n the likes since u have no spark .

Oops, yep, was meant to say 200 kpa Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

me and my dad tried this test today for a vl with no spark: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=71798 and as it said test the voltages across the female cas plug and if the two pins that read 5v while cranking dont change it's a faulty cas. so given that they stayed at 5v, we concluded its faulty cas, and the 2 spare dizzys i had in the shed must have been faulty as well. so off we go to the wreckers and source yet another dizzy...get home and still same result *sigh* I think its now a job for an auto sparky...thanks for the help anyway guys.