yeah looking good man! I feel ur pain im from Melbourne"originaly" now in Townsville, the little things r so hard to come buy and postage always gets u! especially og spec too that's why this site is so good blokes like mitch "SIroller" good parts good price no hassles

SIroller: thanks, yeah had enough practice now lol also help to shake the can for a good 10 mins and when ever you have thinking time during prep. dougall83: Cheers. Its coming along picking up a mystery box from the P.O tomorrow so fingers crossed it the hoses, hanging to get my hands on a GK-Teck cooler kit like your,s The rust was not as bad as I thought it might be... once I gave it a clean up. The wire wheel came out again in full swing and made a meal of the my flaky friends, Exposing a few little holes here n there, which I siliconed up and painted over. Call me mad, but seeing that the rubber boot seal had overspay on it that I couldn't for the life of me remove. I decided to just paint it black again. I figure if its that hard to remove without being prepped then once prepped it will hold like fk. Replaced a non existent thermostat with a high flow number. Cleaned, sanded then painted the rails and walls with some Wattyl primer then... you guessed it,- Wattyl solar-guard with 3 coats of love. Some rust coming back on the battery tray but that things was a gonner from the get go. The bay still needs a little clean and miner sand to blend the edges but came up well The boot Came up amazing with a final check and rust proof ([plugs to go back in tomorrow) Oh and 2 prime coats and 2 top coats Bit of wiring to clean up and hide. Yup its house paint and yup it cost me under $60 bucks to pull off, with enough paint left over to do it again. happy with how it turned out. ---------- Post added 30-09-13 at 00:28 ---------- More pics Note: all Areas where treated with rust converting ACID to denture any further detrition Fitted the air box and new AFM. Made use of the holes cut in the body and a peace of a/c ducting I had lying around. wipped out the hot iron punched out the bottom of the air box. basically I prepared the hole with my Hot iron rod so I could push my pipe in to the box while it was still warm. it was a tight fit but you get the picture... ---------- Post added 30-09-13 at 00:46 ---------- "Manipulated" the garnish bracket so the rear lines up.. I also made use of the speaker mesh that came with the 4"ers that went into the dash. Placed/bent one over the cold air intake pipe, to prevent any un-necessary crap entering the air box. I may zip tie the entrance of the pipe to the support bracket in front of it to avoid rotating due to wind resistance. Looks neat, black and is practical, every thing that this car is not...

yeah bud I just put a "WANTED AD" on this site cash waiting and I think I had 2 or 3 people respond I paid $500 or so inc post from "bt1cal" on here there a good cheap kit, I cant believe how good those pressure paks look!!! bloody unreal!! r they just paint code in a can or matched?? more info on em bud,

There nothing special mate. just auto touch up paint off the shelf not colour matched. ill take some better pics after I polish the left side. I used the lines of the bay as my boarders in choosing where the two paints meet. like natural shadows The trick is (provided you don't get a dud) to shake the crap out of it making sure there is no lumps of any kind and hold the can as up rite as you can. other than that it depends on the quality of the paint n prep. Its a glass finish strait from the can and takes some practice as its has its own challenges. but they say if you can paint with cans you can paint with a gun basically iv done both and using a gun is far easier but higher chance of runs. If you want to try it. I suggest just spray some card board to see how it comes up. Its good practice and if your happy with it then go for gold. Wait for it to tack dry and start the engine the heat from the engine will bake the paint although it may not need it. Im not saying its better than a pro job but (doing things your self has its advantages) but its the next best thing it all sounds dodgy but its dodgy people that give these methods a bad name. If you don't have or want to splash the cash but want a nice bay, this is a very good compromise and I would gladly pit (with pride) my home job against any stock 24 Y.O scuffed up rusted engine bay any day. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

results look schmick good work again. wish my engine bay was all smoothed and glossy.

To all the champions tuning in on this thread. I like lot of pics... I don't know what that says about me but enjoy. Update: Engine is back together, took all day. I am pretty happy with it, I say pretty because I still need to add some finer touches and buy some clamps that match. also not happy with the fuel rail; it's ivory and look like ****. But iv decided to repaint it when the new cooler kit goes on. so far iv fitted 6 new Injectors, Bypassed manifold coolant hosing and installing a bleed valve all new coolant hosing simplified Vac lines New fuel hoses throughout contact cleaned every plug replaced p/c valve new washer bottle cleaned AAC assembly (The amount of crap in those things, every one iv done has been darker than black beards ass crack) Pics up tomorrow.. Peace Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

no pics

You got some solid plans heading in this car, its coming up great!. I am definetly one of the champs you speak of Im just worried that when its all done the panels wont match up and will stand out because of the white spray cans you are using. That would be a shame after all of your efforts Also, I never thought I would see house paint inside a VL boot... But it surprisingly looks good! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Zaksvl: love your input but progress comes before pics mate. MUS: I see what you mean mate. But to be honest it's not very noticeable by any means. The fact it's white plays in my favour, I guess if it were any other colour it would look like crap but I kept the brush strokes as chimerical and as long as possible. And over all from a bystanders perspective The location of the engine and the folds of the rails hide the points where the to paints meet. I'll take some critical pics of what I mean and (zaksvl) post them up soon. Next I'll be looking at the body replacing the bonnet and boot and getting a top coat smahed on to freshen her up. As it stands the car is ready to fire up, just waiting on a mate to get my battery back. phrasing BooM! Bit concerns about the timing as i think its retarded (Bolt closer to the top of the eyelet/or/wound clockwise a 10mm Thanks for the input Again zaksvl pics up soon Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Bought a new battery today though id fire her up.. NOTE there is a plug missing!!! the TPS usually has a 3 wire (grey plug) coming off it. Now I have the loom plug, but I do not have the connecting plug on the throttle body's TPS! car has had a manual conversion and there is no signs that the plug has been cut off the TPS. Its like it was never there. I have done a search but have yet to find a pic of an A8 or na where this plug in not present Turns over fine but No go. so checked Fuel delivery and fuel pump- yes Coil changed - yes coil lead spark - yes Wiggled CAS plug while missus turned it over - yes cleaned every fuse - yes checked all plugs - yes Vac lines correct - yes Adjusted timing, bolt sitting at 15% above half way immobiliser working normal and kill switch all good - yes Things to check as I need a multimeter but am working the next 7 days lol time to think I guess.. ECU error codes Spark from lead #1 injector power constant and or rev polarity relay spark plugs fusible links Apologise for not having pics up as I stated earlier. the internet in **** on sundays in Karratha. Im not spending all day on the comp .

Been tunung into this thread for a while yiu gavr me inspiration to get out and do a bit on mine today started ckeaning bit to put back together in mine, good job man..

Good to hear 88wags. colder months can make inspiration hard to find. I'm from Melbourne originally) now I have the opposite problem; It hit 44 here the other day. Running out of cool days. You'll thank your self when the it starts to heat up and your already ahead of the game! She's running !!!! Searched every thread I could find and made a huge list. My pic of the bunch was that when I selected the cruse control module, I did not join the vac lines but blocked one off at the T pease to the vac ball and the other I cut and blocked off at the fire wall. So I raced home and join the two... No luck just lots of cranking So I checked my reverse polarity diode- came up in good nick cleaned and re taped So I checked the adjoining relay. Holly crap..., it had a thick coating of oxidisation going on. Contact cleaner did nothing so out came the 400 grit and, pointy nose pliers to get to the middle one! Hooked her back up and boom. It roared into life with the most ugliest sounding noise iv herd but I was happy. It flattens out once it got the juices flowing a little. So next on the list is a factory tune and diagnosis but first! Timing! Then set Revs and AFM to specific values then test the ECU mixture and codes. Should be fun. Oh and fuel and bleed the cooling system. The ball valve with my work Amazingly well the ball valve is enough to stop the flow let alone the (nut plus rubber seal) cap on the end! ---------- Post added 07-10-13 at 23:48 ---------- Pics coming tomorrow night. ---------- Post added 07-10-13 at 23:51 ---------- Oh and thanks for tuning in and showing support. appreciate it guys.

Yeah mate starting to warm up a little just lost inspiration for a while but keen to get heaps done now worst part is trying to find a Calais wagon rooflining it's the only bit holding me up otherwise I an out most back together.. Good to see yours runs again must be a good feeling..

lol turning into a seleb ha ha good stuff!

88Wagon Yeah mate starting to warm up a little just lost inspiration for a while but keen to get heaps done now worst part is trying to find a Calais wagon rooflining it's the only bit holding me up otherwise I an out most back together.. Good to see yours runs again must be a good feeling.. Yeah man it was. but made me think how many other relay and relay plugs are in the same condition. Can you join two headlining's to gather, you would have one join line... come to think of it iv never been In a vl wagon lol Sold the VEs sound system for $800 so that should cover the cost off a 10" sub and amp for the vl after something punchy. the above set up use to over heat in not time especially in this climate paparazzi Pics up Before & Afters The bay when I got her home Before it was running Ah...side Ah...other side and MUS.. Under the battery, facing driver ATM Now its on to more fun and games such as... "Where do I find a vl bonnet in the Pilbara?", "how to justify a $10,000 respray using $200 worth of paint and no materials fee??" and my favourite lets pay rego on a car that's off the road... lucky I don't love lamp as much as I love vl ---------- Post added 08-10-13 at 21:11 ---------- Above (second pic). passenger side facing front. On the passenger side: I painted th rail, the whole wall up to the flat edge; on which the air box sits and under the fuse box. On the driver side: I painted the rail and up to the over hanging lip where the wall starts. Also painted under the booster and the back wall still needs a sand and clean up Fiddly little brushes help when cutting in in an engine bay. Never thought id say that. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Top work man, do it yourself and do it right! Where did you get the washer bottle from? How much did it set you back if you don't mind me asking

Cheers. I bought the bottle off hsvkingpin on eBay $65.50 plus $13.50 postage. Nothing special it was the cheapest one I could find and has GM and the part number moulded in the plastic. Not the first one iv bought n haven't notice any clarinets between eBay sellers. They make a great addition to the any Engine bay and a far better option than painting the old crusty one. Which just looks tacky. It may seem expensive if considering to keep and not hide the bottle. But dollar per inch; it's probably the cheapest part of any enthusiasts bay. Does that answer your question lol

Yeh was just curious as to how much they go for, I need to invest in a new one because the current one is cracked and will leak. No use repainting that lol

new rocker cover and heat shield would set this bay off perfectly! Awesome work man

Quote: Originally Posted by vin-vlt [View Post] new rocker cover and heat shield would set this bay off perfectly! Awesome work man Thanks. Yeah couldn't have summed it up better. But there's only one place (repco) in town that sells VHT wrinkle pain, placing an ordering after work. Should take a week to get here via road. Will have a look at miter10 for some tin and some snips to make a heat shield. can't be to hard lol Also was looking at the R31 manual on my comp and thought I'd post up a link for those who haven't seen it. Tons of good technical info, good trouble shooting tool for the RB30 http://www.r31skylineclub.com/conten...ads/manual.pdf (http://www.r31skylineclub.com/content/downloads/manual.pdf) So in the mean time it's down to. Timing, coolant, idle adjust and quick drive round the block to check ECU codes. Once is all good there ill attack the engine bay with a multimeter to identify any faults in the electrical system. Throw in an oil change with some Penrite HPR40 read good things about it. Chose the thicker 40 over the 30 as it's frakn hot up here sitting in the 40s most days. But if Poohkies can run a VL the way he does in this heat and humidity... The guys nuts! Haha It's has the gurgles coming from the in tank pump so once she's off ramps Ill plug the new 044 pump, adding new fuel hosing. Depending on the situation down there I may change the in tank pump as well as there cheap. Tips on removing tank/fuel neck grommet? From what iv read it looks pretty strait forward but iv found results am vary ---------- Post added 09-10-13 at 13:02 ---------- Thinking The VE Heron white as a respray colour. It's bright white, like a pimp white. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.