Aussie desert strikes again

Makes me wonder if the person that sold it to me off here a few years ago knew of the problem and just "forgot" to mention it...

Don't get a PWR.. Get a genuine 3 core turbo one off Natrad, or an 3 core cheap ally one off eBay.

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT [View Post] Don't get a PWR.. Get a genuine 3 core turbo one off Natrad, or an 3 core cheap ally one off eBay. Why is that. Have u had a problem with the pwr radiator.

Bit of Thermodynamics 101 for everyone. A Copper core radiator will induce more heat transfer than an identical Alloy one. By alot... Most Alloy Radiators have a thicker core to make up for the difference. Alloy Radiators are also very susceptable to stray current and will corrode easily. Alloy = Looks nice and bling Copper = Remove more heat

Quote: Originally Posted by VLCT88 [View Post] Makes me wonder if the person that sold it to me off here a few years ago knew of the problem and just "forgot" to mention it... No. Never had an issue with it. How long ago did you buy it off me? 3 years? When I parted put my wagon (which was clearly documented due to an EPA) EVERYTHING was in excellent working order and of all the parts I sold, I have not had a single complaint. That set up had hardly any KMs on it. if there is an issue it never happened while I had it or it has occurred after the purchase. Feel free to contact JPC who did all the tuning. ---------- Post added 04-01-13 at 22:32 ---------- http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=161563 There is the for sale thread for those wanting to see it.

Quote: Originally Posted by InsaneVL [View Post] Bit of Thermodynamics 101 for everyone. A Copper core radiator will induce more heat transfer than an identical Alloy one. By alot... Most Alloy Radiators have a thicker core to make up for the difference. Alloy Radiators are also very susceptable to stray current and will corrode easily. Alloy = Looks nice and bling Copper = Remove more heat and how do we stop this mr mark while were in classs 101 1 use only top shelf coolant not dilooted crap l use nulon the $50+stuff 2 check cooling system with a multimeter for currant anything over 1.5 is bad 3 run a good earth from engine to battery 4 problem fixed there aint nothing wrong with ally radiators period they cool quicker when there done wright most new cars have alley radiators in them for this reason l also wana know how long was it sitting around for if you brought it 2 +yrs ago

yep was sitting around since I bought it...

Quote: Originally Posted by MADVLT1 [View Post] Why is that. Have u had a problem with the pwr radiator. With 2 of them. One sprung leaks and the other one died from "stray currents".. despite the eBay one being in the same car without issue. ---------- Post added 12-01-13 at 19:22 ---------- They don't cool quicker than copper.. they are cheaper than copper. Copper transfers heat faster, surface area to transfer the heat between the radiator and the surround air is next. You can't check for stray current.. you can check for voltage issues for electrolysis. Current is a by product of voltage differential. Electrolysis occurs between an anode and cathode which is generally dissimilar metals. Having gunk in your cooling system can do this. You can buy products of a company called liquid intelligence which will strip the crap out of your cooling system.. Follow the directions and flush well. Keep everything well earthed like you said and it limits the issues. Quote: Originally Posted by pigsy [View Post] and how do we stop this mr mark while were in classs 101 1 use only top shelf coolant not dilooted crap l use nulon the $50+stuff 2 check cooling system with a multimeter for currant anything over 1.5 is bad 3 run a good earth from engine to battery 4 problem fixed there aint nothing wrong with ally radiators period they cool quicker when there done wright most new cars have alley radiators in them for this reason l also wana know how long was it sitting around for if you brought it 2 +yrs ago

Sorry, Sort of off topic but I've got an eBay style ally rad in my vl, never had a prob. Went in a few burnout comps, got driven like it was stolen, never got hot or had any issues like this. Have only heard of one faulty one out of the tens of people I know with them, and the bloke who sells them here in Canberra has only had that one back. Luck of the draw I spose, I know some people don't wanna use 'home brand sh!t' on they're big budget builds, but 180 odd bucks compared to 1000+....

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT [View Post] With 2 of them. One sprung leaks and the other one died from "stray currents".. despite the eBay one being in the same car without issue. ---------- Post added 12-01-13 at 19:22 ---------- They don't cool quicker than copper.. they are cheaper than copper. Copper transfers heat faster, surface area to transfer the heat between the radiator and the surround air is next. You can't check for stray current.. you can check for voltage issues for electrolysis. Current is a by product of voltage differential. Electrolysis occurs between an anode and cathode which is generally dissimilar metals. Having gunk in your cooling system can do this. You can buy products of a company called liquid intelligence which will strip the crap out of your cooling system.. Follow the directions and flush well. Keep everything well earthed like you said and it limits the issues. left a few things out, but its also known that alley cools down real quick aswell, l modded my ally radiator , and it kept my vl cooler with a smaller radiator than the copper, yer they can be cheaper but they can work as good when set up properly, and yes you can check the coolant system for current . meaning stick the end probe of the meter in the coolant