Yeh went to start her before and she wouldn't start but then I got her going after a few shot, it was misfiring and alsorts but once it started to warm up with me keep the revs around 1,500 because anything lower it would stall once it warmed up it seem to idel fine. Turismo the only reason im asking so many questions is because im still learning and the reason. I want to rebuild another engine is because I never done it before so the engine in it at the moment I will scrap or sell once the other one is rebuilt. Im looking at getting injectors asap so im seeing what can be done in the mean time on it. Im in no rush

i wouldn't recommend running it with the na injectors and ecu. dosnt take much pining to pop a headgasket

What is pining i have seen written befor but never knew what it was :/

basicly pinging will make it stutter under load . if you put the timing back it will be fine mines been played with so many times and iv even put the timing up higher then it should be and never pinged . just use really good fuel and dont over boost it

Pinging doesn't have anything to do with studdering lol, that can be caused by incorrectly gapped spark plugs, bad leads ect... you will know your cars pinging when it sounds like you have marbles in your cylinders. Keep pushing it you'll end up with either a blown headgasket, holes in your pistons and some serious knocking.

in a nutshell, pinging is the noise thats generated from combustion at the wrong time in the compression stroke (of 4 stroke engine). It creates an astronomical increase in cylinder pressure. it results in a force that can break parts like spark plugs, pistons, split bores, blow out chunks of headgasket and even result in bent connecting rods or bent valves. it can happen when intake air temperatures are very high from overboosting small turbo's, too small an intercooler, low octane fuels are used (E10, 95), boost is too high for the engine such as a high compression engine with a turbo, it also occurs when the mixtures are too lean, and last of all, too much advanced ignition timing or early firing causing force on the upward moving piston. High powered engines are often less tolerant although upgraded engine parts can withstand more pinging than the standard parts it doesn't mean it won't fail eventually if not instantly when under full power production. There is a lot of science behind predetonation, pinging, engine knocking etc. I have only grazed the surface here. One of my colleagues wrote some really in depth technical papers years ago from a study in to this remarkable phenomenon. but i found this wiki quicker than the doco so here ya go. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

So I should re-gap my spark plugs get better leads and stuff too? And I should be getting injectors in a week or so, so for now she is in the shed, but I still don't understand why she wants to stall out when she is cold and when I go to rev it trust to stall to. I have adjusted the idel and slappers but can't seem to get it right would it be some sort of sensor that's buggering up? ---------- Post added 22-11-12 at 23:17 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by bachig24u [View Post] in a nutshell, pinging is the noise thats generated from combustion at the wrong time in the compression stroke (of 4 stroke engine). It creates an astronomical increase in cylinder pressure. it results in a force that can break parts like spark plugs, pistons, split bores, blow out chunks of headgasket and even result in bent connecting rods or bent valves. it can happen when intake air temperatures are very high from overboosting small turbo's, too small an intercooler, low octane fuels are used (E10, 95), boost is too high for the engine such as a high compression engine with a turbo, it also occurs when the mixtures are too lean, and last of all, too much advanced ignition timing or early firing causing force on the upward moving piston. High powered engines are often less tolerant although upgraded engine parts can withstand more pinging than the standard parts it doesn't mean it won't fail eventually if not instantly when under full power production. There is a lot of science behind predetonation, pinging, engine knocking etc. I have only grazed the surface here. One of my colleagues wrote some really in depth technical papers years ago from a study in to this remarkable phenomenon. but i found this wiki quicker than the doco so here ya go. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking Ok thanks buddy will looks this up now! And it's quite interesting

Buddy buy yaself a work shop manual an let it become ya new best friend, using ya workshop manual an a multi meter u can go over all ya sensors to see what's happenen or not happenen. A timing light, compression tester, boost an vac gauge will also get u far.

Ok I will buy one tomorrow been meaning to get one for a while :P

Once ya have all those tools an book look up or Google autospeed.com an let all the info in there sink in there is heaps of good stuff to read on there an alot of tech for vls. I also think that it may of been on here some where about adjusting an setting the airflow meter with the ohm meter(multimeter).

Other then injectors is there anything else you guys would recommend doing to my vl so it will last longer and run better/ faster?

fuel filter anything you can think of really leads basicaly try to service as many parts as you can that will help limit the issues and ensure most things are running at there best ---------- Post added 31-12-12 at 04:20 ---------- make sure there are no vacume leaks and that all hoses are conected give us a run down of what you have and havent changed in converting it to turbo