now mate max boost for a n/a engine do a search its been covered alot.
number one thing is your fuel system, 500cc injectors will keep a t3t4 safe too about 20-22 psi providing uve got a 044 fuel pump behind it. high comp high km engine should be safe at 8psi it will have torque and but low hp on a std computer. aftermarket is the way to go i will soon throw up my tune for my microtech making 297.8 hp at 12psi well 11.7 according to the dyno sheet on a dead vl turbo pump not going above 40psi ive now got a 044 in it and i feel even more power although im running a 1.3mm decomp plate and other junk.
basic tips
surge tank if you keep your tank more than 50% full not really needed just dont boost below that
ebay turbo's ie t3t4 internal gate china turbos they suck weld the gate inside it and throw a 50mm external on for 90bucks delivered and go to a welder and get a screamer pipe made for 30bucks the external gates come in 11psi,15,18 on ebay choose accordningly to age and specification and how long you want it to last.
ebay or monsta manifolds suck and wont probably be flat allow 80bucks to get it machined flat your choice of manifold no more said
after market ecu's are the way to go std ones dont do too good if you wanna go fast.
be ready for a gearbox/clutch if you thrash it.so dont if you havnt got the coin, 2nd usually goes in manuals dont know about auto boxes.
mechanical boost control is more reliable and wont spike as much as a cheap electronic boost controller so kiss, keep it simple stupid
decomp it less hassle more reliable as it should be less prone to detonation depending on your tune get one atleast to adjust your a/fr. note there are some freaks that have reliable ones up to you so no haters just my experience
intercooler not need for low boost ie std but get one it will help prevent detonation but if you boost it to the heavens your fu ck ed.
if using a top mount manifold heat wrap your exhaust or you will melt wiring and fuse box. not that i did cough cough. do it anyways
oil cooler will help your oil last longer instead of cooking it put it on the return from your turbo.
there you go dont stuff your car too many ppl think there im gonna build a fully sick fast VL and 90% stuff them or blow them up there arent as many now so lets not stuff any more. anything else just add on i know its a repeated thread we need a sticky for boosted n/a engines so i dont write this crap whilst having a jack daniels.
oh my spellings sucks
no mate not a high flow t3 i was reffering to ebay t3/t4 sh i t ive tried it and got it to work with $$$$$ and that is it i was on reffering to a couple of experiences ive had with it and they do boost and boost hard. hast flown apart to date that is all i got 26.7
out of the t3-t4 turbo in a spike and was lucky my a6 didn't go booommm.
hope this answeres dinch reply
---------- Post added 24-03-12 at 00:20 ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by xAsh-
[View Post]
You really dont need an oil cooler on a street VL...
I was refering to ebay crappy turbos that are oil lubbed and coiled you need them or your changing oil every couple of months and it ends up being a pain in the bum it also helps with internal wear and tear.
P.s deasel oil of the same grade will keep your interanls cleaner without the carbon marking of petrol grade oil as the detergents in it are much more effective and will help with wear and tear and keep your internals and keep them nice and shiny. (waiting for haters) (lol)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinch
[View Post]
a hi flow t3 on 22psi?? wow
Don't laugh but my T3 high flow makes 22psi. The air is not as dense(runs out of puff) but it can hit 22psi. Their are a few different types of T3 high flows around aswell.
---------- Post added 24-03-12 at 09:15 ----------
But back to the original question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty!
[View Post]
A week or 2 left til i chuck the turbo kit on. So what is a safe boost for my N/A rb30?
Any tips you have on boosting an n/a please leave them here!
Chuck a harrow top supercharger on & you can make 30psi with no intercooler.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by milad
[View Post]
"Now to get the most out of it u need to leave the brake vaccume line off to give it a vac leak...now the next step is vital take the waste gate hose off and remove the throttle spring"
Hold the faark on, and enjoy!
HAHAHAHA! pissing myself reading this!
but on a serious note, with a cooler around 8-10 psi with a highcomp setup and no decomp plate.
I had 10psi with a gt3582r 1.06 rear housing. Standard vlt ecu and injectors. Fmic. 3" till the cat. Then 2.5" catback. That ran perfectly till the pcv died.
i did mine last week running on 6psi on na injectors and na ecu , ran fine besides being abit slow . now its running vlt injectors and vlt ecu runs alot better still on 6 psi tho
I was going to add some experience but after reading all this, I just can't stop pissing myself.
In fact, I'm thinking best leave some comment of value anyway...
if you take any of these elaborate performance tricks away from here and try them on your project VL,
" make sure your insurance policy is up to date. "
Yeah. What happens if you were in a accident & they(the police) or your insurance company investigate your car & find it doesn't have the following. (4 wheel disc brakes, Larger master cylinder, thicker axles). Can they sting you for that???
they will sting your for whateva really.. im sure they can find something to pump you for..
and im running a standard n.a - turbo convo... 8psi and its loving life, just make sure u get it tuned and its running 98.. happy days
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTURBO
[View Post]
Yeah. What happens if you were in a accident & they(the police) or your insurance company investigate your car & find it doesn't have the following. (4 wheel disc brakes, Larger master cylinder, thicker axles). Can they sting you for that???
My car is a factory VLCT so i have turbo brakes, ect ect. Its just my engine and gearbox that hav been changed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted_wagon
[View Post]
Make sure u run standard unleaded and not premium open ya spark plug gaps up to 1.95mm and a little trick I learnt in the trade is turn ya dizzy 180 deg but swap at 3 and 4 spark plug leads.... Now to get the most out of it u need to leave the brake vaccume line off to give it a vac leak...now the next step is vital take the waste gate hose off and remove the throttle spring.... Hope this helps
your a goose keep of the turps man when you get on your comp
---------- Post added 24-03-12 at 22:17 ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty!
[View Post]
My car is a factory VLCT so i have turbo brakes, ect ect. Its just my engine and gearbox that hav been changed.
straight up 10 to 12 psi max no plate and make sure ut has a cooler on it with all the turbo injectors ecu ect , later on after market ecu bigger pump and injectors with a better ecu you will be laughing
just becareful these a lot of dic kheads on here, was good to see that you could read through the crap
Quote:
Originally Posted by vlaholic
[View Post]
I was refering to ebay crappy turbos that are oil lubbed and coiled you need them or your changing oil every couple of months and it ends up being a pain in the bum it also helps with internal wear and tear.
I'd be very careful of using any kind of engine oil cooler on a street car, I think it was mercedes which learned this lesson with the 300SL gullwing back in the 60's, yeah sure it was great for the racecar, but they found road cars wouldnt reach operating temps fast enough, and subsequently fitted a large shroud to divert air away from them lol
