That's a pretty big cam for an na... Its 218 @ 50 on both inlet an exhaust... The wade 818 is 212 @ 50 and even that is a decent cam but I'd be looking at something like that but it will require springs and matching lifterplates as a plus all wade cams have the advancement ground into the cam so no need to dial them in...with the camtech ull need adjustable cam wheel and then ull have to find some one to dial it in for ya...

Quote: Originally Posted by boosted_wagon [View Post] That's a pretty big cam for an na... Its 218 @ 50 on both inlet an exhaust... The wade 818 is 212 @ 50 and even that is a decent cam but I'd be looking at something like that but it will require springs and matching lifterplates as a plus all wade cams have the advancement ground into the cam so no need to dial them in...with the camtech ull need adjustable cam wheel and then ull have to find some one to dial it in for ya... this is true, but i already have an adjustable cam wheel, and i can adjust it at work as im a mechanic.

Quote: Originally Posted by Petrievl [View Post] ditching the chip, and most likely going with this cam http://www.camtechcams.com.au/hold_6cyl_vl_hyd.html CT503517(a) ^ U know what a cam like this would go for?

Quote: Originally Posted by boosted_wagon [View Post] That's a pretty big cam for an na... Its 218 @ 50 on both inlet an exhaust... The wade 818 is 212 @ 50 and even that is a decent cam but I'd be looking at something like that but it will require springs and matching lifterplates as a plus all wade cams have the advancement ground into the cam so no need to dial them in...with the camtech ull need adjustable cam wheel and then ull have to find some one to dial it in for ya... Just comparing the Lift of an NA and Turbo cam doesnt mean anything, the overlap as stated above would be completely different. Hot NA cams are always more aggressive than turbo cams. Your right about the springs though, it would need probably at least 250lb on seat. But camtech does billet cast cams im pretty sure, wouldnt need lifter plates ground to suit, as its not a regrind with reduced base circles.

So much wrongness it hurts my face... Quote: Originally Posted by NA-jet [View Post] its down to what you want now..... If your going to convert to turbo dont waste you money now save it for the conversion even if its just the cam. I use a camtech cam in mine, its pretty good but i need a adjustable cam gear to change the power band. O and i dont think a turbo cam will be any good on a na, the grind is totally different and is made for forced induction which has more overlap then an na cam, dont get me wrong it could work but timming will have to change i assume and power could be affected. Quote: Originally Posted by NA-jet [View Post] yes thats pretty much how it works but to really understand find the turbo and na cam specs and you will understand how a na cam works compared to a turbo cam....... Remember a turbo cam relises on a turbo to work proply (maximum efficiency). ---------- Post added 16-03-12 at 15:48 ---------- Camtech do a N/A range as well as their turbo grinds.. The biggest N/A Camshaft is the CT503 510 (a) 237/237 .508" .508" on 110LSA - This will be cranky as hell. Remmber this though, unless you have massive compression (I would go 12 or 13:1) and have an engine that can rev to 8K don't bother. As always an engine is a package and as such each component needs to be matched so it comes together as a package. No point having the worlds largest camshaft if the car has no compression, **** heads and can't rev it. Same as a turbo engine, no point putting in a GT45 and having a 2400 stall. With a N/A Cam if you go down that path, you going to want to deck the head and the block, get the compression up. You going to want someone to hand port the heads and give them a good clean up and your going to want a good set of extractors, hi flow cat and 2.5" exhaust. I would put 3.9's in if its an auto and a 4K stall, if its a manual 4.11's or shorter. Your also going to need to get some timing into it.

With a N/A Cam if you go down that path, you going to want to deck the head and the block, get the compression up. You going to want someone to hand port the heads and give them a good clean up and your going to want a good set of extractors, hi flow cat and 2.5" exhaust. I would put 3.9's in if its an auto and a 4K stall, if its a manual 4.11's or shorter. Your also going to need to get some timing into it.[/QUOTE] Couldn't agree more!

Quote: Originally Posted by VLT222 [View Post] U know what a cam like this would go for? the cam is going for 395$ rrp. discounted through work for 350$

****.... wade cam with lifter plates $218 with na cam and lifter plates as exchange any profile......

Quote: Originally Posted by boosted_wagon [View Post] ****.... wade cam with lifter plates $218 with na cam and lifter plates as exchange any profile...... was that rrp?

Give them a buzz mate see what they say

I found the best Wade cam is the genuine Nissan "twin" cam setup either using the Rb25DE VVT head or Rb26 head as I did with my VL in 2004 (did the same thing in 1985 too , hope she wants to get back with me !!!) Nah , the 2004 setup was pretty FUBAR, it was setting up the spanish priest with the iranian gynaecologist in the rail industry in Newcastle, I think the 1985 idea was fine and I had that going in my VL, those other people didn't know whether it was a 202 or a 304 ,that's how out of touch they are !!! They never called me back !!!!