Physics is Phun. Even though the smaller diameter hose is above the radiator - because the radiator cross section is bigger than that of the small hose, the coolant will come up and out the bleed bolt without the radiator needing to be higher than it.

does it also work to put a funnel in the radiator overflow hose fill it up and hold that up above the manifold?? when people put the bottle in the radiator do you jack up the front of the car at all or is there no need? also does anyone know what size the hose is? i am gonna grab the fittings tomorrow.[COLOR="Silver"]

iv got to put up some photos theres a better way i fill by using the over flow hoes into a bottle and hang it from the bonnet pin so its the higgest filling point , i also jack front of car up not sure if u have 2 but im over cautious i also have the custom bleed bolt on the back with more hose so it higher than the inlet manifold its on a straight fitting barb end with a little bleed bolt in the middle of it, i got the parts from outbound in the city i used the return collant hose comming from turbo i thinks 8mm and got a fitting to suit cost about 20 buck for fitting/allen key bolt/1m of hose when i bleed i take both bolts off after its at running temp. use a rag it will be hot and collant will sprays out of bleeding holes lol wait till bubbles have stoped then do up front one first then the back one no mess a couple of drops depends on how well u are at getting the hose into the bottle and making it air tight, i use an old 5l collant bottle and burn a hole for the hose to fit at the bottom and make it air tight then fill it up with 1/2 l of collant and hang from bonnet pin

i ended up doing this on the weekend so i got a few pics incase anyone else wants to do it. this the stuff i used. i ended up trimming down the hose that was on there because it had a 90degree bend and was still in good nic. i just roughly measured it and cut it to size i had to trim a tiny bit off once i tried fitting it. its pretty straight forward you just undo the hose and slot in the one you had made up. not alot of coolant comes out so you don't have to worry about spilling it everywhere . worked really well just let it get to running temp then loosen the bleed bolt on the runners and let it push the air bubbles out and tighten then loosen the one i just fitted and let what was left of the air out and tighten. but of course i tightened the bleed bolt on the runners to tight and snapped the head off the bolt so ended up buying a set of easy outs and replacing the bolt with a spare i had so ill be replacing it again soon with a brand new bolt if i can find a matching one. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Whats the go if you have a custom plenum? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Probably just copy what I have done ^^

Ah right no worries, i thought your first pic was a hose connected to the plenum, my mistake cheers

Also you will need special clip removing tools. Or els it's easier to pull the engine out lol ---------- Post added 28-06-12 at 17:38 ---------- Good idea though cost me 40 blocks for the set up azz holez at the store. Bit of greas n pointy nose players n patience ---------- Post added 28-06-12 at 18:05 ---------- Urs is a turbo plenum huh na plenum is a bich Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

my plenum is a N/A plenum and setting up the bleed valve was easy.

Quote: Originally Posted by vlwagz [View Post] i ended up doing this on the weekend so i got a few pics incase anyone else wants to do it. this the stuff i used. i ended up trimming down the hose that was on there because it had a 90degree bend and was still in good nic. i just roughly measured it and cut it to size i had to trim a tiny bit off once i tried fitting it. its pretty straight forward you just undo the hose and slot in the one you had made up. not alot of coolant comes out so you don't have to worry about spilling it everywhere . worked really well just let it get to running temp then loosen the bleed bolt on the runners and let it push the air bubbles out and tighten then loosen the one i just fitted and let what was left of the air out and tighten. but of course i tightened the bleed bolt on the runners to tight and snapped the head off the bolt so ended up buying a set of easy outs and replacing the bolt with a spare i had so ill be replacing it again soon with a brand new bolt if i can find a matching one. lol i did the same on my old pelenium i made sure on the 1 i have now i put in allen key head bolts much better wont ever snap i set myn different hey ill show u next time we meet up i dont get any any heat soak, much better i can still touch the inlet manifold after a good thrash it used to be 2 hot to touch so it defiantly works i also have inlet manifold insulator from mace engineering that helps too

Hey Vlwags did u use an extension pipe? in (pic 4) thin peace of pipe ... Thought it was a turbo plenum thing. mine comes out of the block to heater n up to manifold (factory) The half way one or the one that sits at the base? I have to head out n buy new clamps and more hose. I have heaps of sizes but not ones that fit well enough. Been messing with faulty hoses n clamps for a week n bleed it to many times so now I'm paranoid lol. But I know I can trust it when it's done. ---------- Post added 28-06-12 at 22:25 ---------- Any way just want her bk on the road after 3 months. Man conversion is done just bleeding cooling system n clutch m/c how she goes Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

That thin piece is the war feed to the turbo. Yeah i remember seeing the manifold spacer last time i saw ya ben..

I'm using the exact same fitting and bolt as u wags n mate my bolt won't stop leaking. Although I thought this would happen so I bought a special bolt with a rubber ring and washer lol Have you guys had this problem r there any trick/products u can use to make it seel I plan to drive the Vl a cross Australia in a month. N don't want to be stuck in the desert lol.

Plumbers tape is the trick mate..

Thread tape gotcha. Thanks

ive blead all my cars for many a year with this thing and it hasnt let me down to date ..... .. $ 50 rrp Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Never seen one of those before.. good idea

Its not necessary to run the T piece and have a second bleed valve. The system bleeds perfectly with the old throttle body and plenum feeds joined. You just need to fill it up with coolant, open the bleed bolt for the top hose and let gravity do the rest.