Quote: Originally Posted by VLC-57L [View Post] The AAC Valve is not hooked up at all. Thats still sitting on the stock Plenum. Guys have told me you can still run the standard ECU without it being plugged. But we did try the afm not hooked up and it just wouldn't start at all. So your AFM is working, cool. Seriously I don't think it would run without the AAC valve. Fair enough if you had a aftermarket computer but with a stock RB30 ecu it needs it to control idle.

hey mate had a similiar sort of thing but not quite so high revving, the o-rings on 3 of the injectors wern't seated right and was running pretty eratic could be worth a look, i have a nistune and had me car running without the aac connected wasn't to smooth but ran hope this helps

Thanks for your input Nato. Yeah i have removed the injectors twice now, because i thought the same thing. That is they weren't in properly again it would be enough to create a leak. Its really doing my head in. Quite a few guys here are still running the standard ECU with a forward facing plenum and no AAC valve plugegd in. And theirs are running ok. So i think its more the fact i have some crazy leak somewhere that i have no idea where.

Do a diagnostic check & tell us what numbers come up.

I think I can almost hear an air leak. it's causing the eratic idle and starting thats for sure. Things that come to mind watching the vid is; 1. Check the direction of the boost bleed valve if one is installed. 2. Seal the rocker cover vents whilst trouble shooting. 3. If possible, close the throttle completely and do not depress the pedal while trying to start. It's not a carburetted engine, either hold the throttle at a set point or fix it at a set point. Pumping the accelerated causes havoc for the AFM/MAF readings when the ECU is calculating airflow when trying to start. 4. check the fuel supply is good, ensure nice smooth flow from pump. (if by priming the pumps twice that 20psi+ is not reached on regulator gauge you need to find out why, sometime low fuel can be a culprit). 5. with a possible leak like this I would be sealing off the plumbing from throttle body to turbo and pressurizing to ensure it was air tight system. gaffa tape and an aircompressor or vaccum cleaner works wonders (dial the pressure to 10psi, should be sufficient to hear a hissing sound). 6. has the inlet manifold been presured tested? any hidden vacuum/boost signal ports underneath out of sight? 6.1 have you blocked off the cabins vacuum switch system, they cause leaks when the one-way valve dies, looks like wiper washer hoses along firewall. 6.2. Checked or blocked brake vacuum boost signal port? 7. after engine starts, put it in "drive" quick as possible with brakes on, it will buy some time for second person to assist in locating the air leak with water spray. Else if its a manual, remove fuel pump relay and crank engine spraying 'start ya *******' or 'aerostart' around possible leakage points. the engine will cough/fire everytime it sucks some in. 8. any chance a cooler plumbing clamps was overtightened squeezing it out of round? pm me your details if you give up, i'd like to come up and have a look if possible.