hey mate do you have any specs on the rods? like weights and max rpm they can handle.

i would love too then i could max my turbo out! but my crank is machined to suit chev rods, due to there being bugger all on the market when i built it 5 or so years ago, whats the life on the alloy rods?

Quote: Originally Posted by bsakid [View Post] hey mate do you have any specs on the rods? like weights and max rpm they can handle. specs are up now mate ---------- Post added 10-07-11 at 17:25 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by EVLRB30 [View Post] i would love too then i could max my turbo out! but my crank is machined to suit chev rods, due to there being bugger all on the market when i built it 5 or so years ago, whats the life on the alloy rods? Depends on your application, There best suited for drag racing, tractor pulling, Bonneville, short endurance oval and road race. Can be used for high performance street with engine temp being the limiting factor for the rods (Aluminium), but approx 30,000-40,000 miles they say but still depends on the application. They will handle higher horse power and have not as much stress on the crank as they are designed to take the stress/impact. Anything special about the crank besides being ground to chev rod spec?

Quote: Originally Posted by grunter01 [View Post] specs are up now mate ---------- Post added 10-07-11 at 17:25 ---------- Depends on your application, There best suited for drag racing, tractor pulling, Bonneville, short endurance oval and road race. Can be used for high performance street with engine temp being the limiting factor for the rods (Aluminium), but approx 30,000-40,000 miles they say but still depends on the application. They will handle higher horse power and have not as much stress on the crank as they are designed to take the stress/impact. Anything special about the crank besides being ground to chev rod spec? just the normal screw in oil gallery plugs, machined snout for oil pump, re-nitrided etc

Quote: Originally Posted by EVLRB30 [View Post] just the normal screw in oil gallery plugs, machined snout for oil pump, re-nitrided etc Still costs a bit to to all that though... What rods and valves are you using?

Quote: Originally Posted by grunter01 [View Post] Still costs a bit to to all that though... What rods and valves are you using? yeah it adds up hey, just got h beams nothing special, probly upgrade to some i beams some time so i can really push it, not sure on the brand of valves there just 1mm oversize intake and exhaust, wish there was more parts around when i built it! could have saved me money and been a lot stronger too

well let me know if you want to change

have u got the prices on the clear cam covers ?

x2 clear cam covers!!! i really want one!!!!

Guys read the reply's about the clear cam covers. Im sure we will find out a price as soon as grunter01 knows. If you can get good deals on pistons for RB26/30 22mm pins let me know man, thats about all im short of to put another engine together. Might just push me in the right direction to get the Merc started.

Quote: Originally Posted by 88 Chaser [View Post] Guys read the reply's about the clear cam covers. Im sure we will find out a price as soon as grunter01 knows. If you can get good deals on pistons for RB26/30 22mm pins let me know man, thats about all im short of to put another engine together. Might just push me in the right direction to get the Merc started. what rods do you want? aluminium or 4340 steel? also with pistons what size? and comp? ---------- Post added 14-07-11 at 21:44 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by jackpot77 [View Post] x2 clear cam covers!!! i really want one!!!! yeah guys im working on it, (postage company) found the sample they lost so its on its way again to get the mold price... so hopefully will have a 3d drawing and a price on the mold for it all... will keep you guys posted

pm me grunter when u get the price please

new gear up....

besides being lighter, whats aluminium and steel differences? is one better for street or track? Im guessing steel is better for more kms?

Yes the steel is better for kms and general street use, the aluminum rods are for race use, they make the rotating assembly lighter so they gain rpm faster, they will handle enormous amounts of power and have alittle bit of give where the steel will snap (top fuelers use aluminum also). The heat is the biggest killer to the aluminum rods. They are not designed to last forever like the 4340 rods as due to high horse power they handle as the little end is the weakest point like all rods and stretches that's why they are used for high powered cars and race use only.... ---------- Post added 17-07-11 at 14:25 ---------- hey guys they finally delivered the sample cover so should have a price in the nexted 2 days hopefully for the clear covers..... i will keep you guys posted.

hey guys got the price back for the mold... its abit more than expected and i have to buy 500 at once.... but will work it out if its worth wild. what would you guys expect to pay? as this has never been made before unlike the twin cams as there is already a mold made... PREORDER ANYTHING IN THE LISTS AND GET 15%OFF

no idea what to expect to pay, but i wanna know a price lol ?

twin cam ones are about $120 aren't they? I think somewhere between $100 - $120 is fair if they are of high quality. Are they a smooth finish or just a clear plastic version of the factory item? Do they clear adjustable cam wheels?

I was expecting $70-$100

I would say $150 if good quality, remembering the fact that this is the first of them ever made in single cam