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info on the rd28 blocks for hi hp rb30s

Started by rbfrog · 18 Apr 2011 · 29 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

PROGMHArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by wpn_vl [View Post] I did say ment to cost that much. On the patrol forums they say it cost $4-5,000. Can see 2 people have just said in here it cost that much or more also. And my patrol is a 1996 so leaves the rb30 block basically out of the question as the engine is older then the car so can't be engineered and if I use my existing block I won't need an engineers for an engine transplant as it wouldn't have done an engine transplant. ...and two people had opposing opinions so we're tied. Just quick internet searching finds them brand new for the prices I listed... and yes you'd need to add labour and bits and pieces to the cost if you're not doing it yourself. There's brand new reconditioned long motors for $5k!!
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grunter01Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by [SLY.747] [View Post] lol well imagine, i did one a couple of months ago on my patrol, ended up costing $5800 all up, but that was including labour, new pulleys (over $1000 in just them), all new belts etc the head alone was $3000 to buy new, if i had of known this before i organised it to get fixed i would have went straight for a 5.7 or 6.0 conversion.. id love to know who you got a new head for $1000 off, maybe a 2nd hand one either that or you have good contacts, or gave the guy you got it off one hell of a blowjob... just good contacts, no blowjob required for this one.... ---------- Post added 17-11-11 at 11:01 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by Cocopopz [View Post] I struggle to understand what the mold is for? We are talking billet blocks, machine from one piece of billet stock. No mould is required, just a 5 axis CNC. i can see where you are coming from in thinking this as i used to also have the same thought, but from looking into getting all sorts of this made my self lately it is a lot more in depth than what everyone thinks, as molds can be $50,000+ than the cost of the making the what ever it is... the mold i am look at getting made for the clear cam covers on the rb30's is $11000 alone and that is not a big mold...
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RB2GOArchived member
Moulds are for casting? Casting changes the structure of the material, not as strong as a billet piece If you used a mould the block would be 'cast' and not 'billet' at all Thats what im thinking, not trying to argue just belting out what a lot of people would be thinking, happy to learn something new if thats not correct
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grunter01Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by RB2GO [View Post] Moulds are for casting? Casting changes the structure of the material, not as strong as a billet piece If you used a mould the block would be 'cast' and not 'billet' at all Thats what im thinking, not trying to argue just belting out what a lot of people would be thinking, happy to learn something new if thats not correct yes you are correct in a way, but people class billet differently? as you say billet is not casted but is a single piece? but some people class 4340 rods as a billet steel and they are casted. But from what i know the bullet blocks are fully cnc machined like you guys have said, but for the casting i was refering to the rd28 blocks which are casted. So yes i agree with Cocopopz and yourself as i thought there blocks are cnc machined also.
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RB2GOArchived member
True, the term 'billet' is very often used for items that are anything but. Doesn't mean they are no good - but they aren't billet
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CocopopzArchived member
Watch this vid, it cant be put any straighter to you lot than this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsmiIeAkE-o http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KLNJ8d8Vqc
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xAsh-Archived member
Everything is cast, even square billet chunks are initially cast, they dont find it like that in the ground! They must get their engine blanks cast to the rough shape so they save time/material/cutting bits, which i can see being cheaper in the long run, but not for small runs, they must expect to sell alot of these. And grunt that $11,000 mould sounds about right, they cost alot because of the moulds, toolmaking is an expensive procedure, and the steel they make it out of is extremely tough, alot more time consuming to machine than billet alloy. You should look into a short run manufacturing InjectMoulding process which use different materials for the mould like epoxy or alloy, you might only get 1000 units out of it (instead of 100,000 out of a tool steel mould) but it will be moderately cheaper. Who designed the part may i ask and did they do any prototyping on it?
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CocopopzArchived member
Your kind of correct. These are still two totally different things, The main difererance is Billet has a aligned grain structure, cast does not. Here is a extract because I cant be f%rked explaining this, I have worked with this kind of crap for to long. Lets hope this gets it right and we dont have to keep explaining this All materials start out at some point as a cast chunk. There is a big difference though in a cast part and a billet chunk of steel or aluminum. The actual naming convention is that a square or rectangular chunk is called a billet, and a round chunk is called a round, but the name billet in aftermarket circles has come to mean �strong because it is made from a block of metal�. This is not always true. A cast part is made from material being forced or poured into a mold. The part will have thicker and thinner areas, and takes shape from this molten state. Therefore the material must have good castability. One of the main properties of a material that has good castability is that it does not form internal voids on cooling. As a material cools, it shrinks. If there are thick and thin areas, the thick areas will cool slower than the thin ones, and the thick areas can form voids, and the part can warp out of shape or crack, or worse, form internal stresses that come out when the part is used, then crack later. That�s why when you look at an engine block for example, they often have scalloped out areas to make the wall thickness more even. These materials are typically more brittle. A cast crankshaft is �weaker� because it is made from cast or nodular cast iron, not really because it is cast. It is cast because the material is very castable, but is impossible to forge. A billet may start out cast, but the shape is very very even and symmetrical, so the above concerns do not come into play as in a cast part of some odd shape. A forged part is made from a chunk of metal. It is then usually heated, and it is pounded into shape in a forging die. The extra metal oozes out from between the forging dies and must be ground off. This is why there is a wide parting line on forged parts. A forged crank is stronger because of the steel it is made from. It could be an alloyed 4340 steel with .40% carbon, or a weaker 1020 steel that is not alloyed and has less (.20%) carbon. The early Chevrolet forged steel cranks crack so regularly mostly because of the weak material they were forged from. It was something like a 1020 (I�m not positive, but you get the idea). A forged piston is strong because of the material it is made from The steel used to make a forged part must have good forgability. It is forged because the material is not very castable. The forging process DOES add grain flow and add strength to the part as above, but it is primarily the higher material Ultimate Tensile Strength (UTS) and Yield Strength (YS) that make it strong. The yield point is the point at which a part first starts to plastically deform. Take a paper-clip, and straighten it. You can flex it to some degree without bending it. Once you permanently bend it, you have hit the yield point. The UTS is where the part actually breaks. The more brittle a material is, the closer together the UTS and the YS are. Also remember, steel can have a yield strength of as little as 40,000 psi, and as great as 300,000 psi. Now a forged part generally is more ductile than a cast part. 4340 steel is probably the most common material for connecting rod and crank forgings. One of the reasons is its balance of high tensile strength, ductility, and cost. It also responds positively to heat treating, so the surface hardness and the overall material tensile strength can be increased after machining. It is cheaper to machine the part when soft, then heat treat it hard. Now the cost of a forged part would seem to be higher because of needing a set of forging dies and a bajillion ton forging press, but the cost or a forged part is generally much lower than a billet part because once the forging tooling is set up, you just go to town and pump out thousands of parts. Forged parts are always made in high quantity to justify the cost of the tooling. The cost of tooling amortized over 100,000 parts is small. If you had a half million dollars tooling costs, in this case the per part cost would be $5 per part. The parts are also close to finished shape, and do not need much machining. Machining generally must be done by workers with more skill and take more time than forging. Now here is the key with billet parts... billet parts have the capability of being of higher strength than a forged part. It depends on what kind of steel the part is made from. A billet part is cut from a solid chunk of steel, so the material does NOT have to be forgeable. You can make parts out of superior strength materials to forging, because you do not have to pick a material that is forgable. Again, this does not stop the designers from picking a weak cheap material, knowing gearheads will buy the parts because the box says �billet�. The biggest drawback to a billet part is they must be fully machined. If producing 100,000 or 250,000 parts, the cost of the machining of all the parts will be much higher than the cost of forging and then finish machining an equal number of parts. The advantage is in low numbers of parts. You can set up a CNC program to mill out 10 sets of billet rods and make money on them. The tooling cost to forge something I�m sure is over $100,000. I do not know what it would cost, but I am just throwing out a number to give an idea of costs. When shopping for parts in the future, remember what the terms "billet" and "forged" really mean. When shopping for the best of any product, the better you understand the terminoligy and the science behind the product, the better your decision making will be. When someone advertises a product as being "billet steel" or "billet aluminum", or "forged steel" you should be asking "what kind of steel?" or "what grade of aluminum?" or "what are the material properties?"
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xAsh-Archived member
Billet parts break the grain flow when machined, which is why most heavy duty parts are made by forging when available, the pressure on the molten material being pushed into a mold means the part has even grain flow around radiused corners/edges. Billet is stiffer though because of the grain being all in one direction. Either way all metals start life being cast into either final parts straight from refinement, or into ingots suitable to become billet.
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elare69Archived member
Rd blocks are $500
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