We have said he needs to address the issue with his builder, but in any case high powered/oil pump modified RB's push oil into the head even with restrictors and the like. Look at any big banger motor and you can bet your ass it has more breather on it that you can poke a stick at. Having adequate breathing is not a band aid as you put it, it is required. Quote: Originally Posted by jackpot77 [View Post] have we all forgotten that the guy said the engine was only just built? if my engine (which will be finished next Tuesday) was experiencing oil overflow issues as this is, i'd be back there asking why? an engine builder (experienced hopefully) should know what is required to stop this from happening, and he should have informed you that there may be the possibility of the problem happening, what ever the engine is doing now is going to be made worse by adding more boost, and if you have a gt35/40 you don't planing on running it at 9-12psi for long. my 2 cents, take it back to the engine builder, if one of my clients was experiencing an issue i would want them to address it with me, i'm sure the engine builder would feel the same way, i am not saying your engine is ****ed i am saying there may be a simple SOLUTION as opposed to a BAND AID. ---------- Post added 14-04-11 at 10:33 ---------- Cha ching Quote: Originally Posted by cal50l [View Post] Yes true 2 x dash 10 lines rocker cover to sumP would be ideal if possible, but u would need bigger breathers from rocker cover to catchcan maybe 2 x dash 12 but after watching catchcan on a dyno run its not pushing oil into catchcan anymore, so basically that dash 12 line from sump to catchcan is acting like a breather thats the point im trying to make Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

jackpot77 the oil pools in the heads of RB's with bigger pumps on them because it can't drain back quick enough, hence pushing it out of the breathers. The external drain is simply that, another drain. The oil isn't airated or full of condensate. I had this exact problem with my car when I put an RB25 pump on. It would fill the catch can after 3 passes down the drag strip. Put a drain on and it its been fine ever since. The GTR pump would push even more oil into the head if its still got both springs in it. My brothers car was over 100psi at cold idle with a GTR pump. You remove the inner spring and it drops back to a far more acceptable 70ish psi

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT [View Post] Yes he should see why its passing so much The oil could be too thick? hence not flowing back fast enough. get a video with the rocker cover filler off and see how much it breathes at idle, it will tell us if its blow by or just the head filling with oil. spoke to engine builder today and he said the GTR has 2 springs or something and that both oil galleries had 2 Tomei Oil Gallery Restrictor installed. He said that there could be too much crankcase pressure which is causing the oil to flow to the rocker cover, he said a vacuum line could be incorrectly installed causing this problem. Could a vacuum hose be connected incorrectly causing that much oil into the rocker cover? I have put thick oil, should l try to put thin oil in? Regarding getting the video, what is the rocker cover filler? (take the rear rocker cover hose off?) Oil will only come out if its only on boost don't think it will come out while its idling. Another thing l noticed today boost gauge was reading -5 to -8 vacuum on idle, is this normal? Quote: Originally Posted by Nukz [View Post] I wouldn't drain back a catch can to the sump. The oil vapors that are blown into the can condensate and the oil in there is quite watery, which ends up in your motor. Best thing to do in this case is run one or two -10ish sized lines from the rocker cover back to your sump, which should solve your problem, assuming the engine build was done to a decent standard. Keep your catchcan setup as it is and see how it goes so drill bigger holes in the rocker cover and run the hose directly to the sump? Just drill a hole in the sump and put the fitting there?

Not sure if this has been answered but what size are your breathers from the rocker cover......and an obvious one..do u have a filter on your catchcan??

I mean the filler cap on the rocker cover, the big black thing at the front top of the cover where you put the oil in. I was just meaning if its breathing hard at idle you may have problems but like you said I doubt its doing it. The builder is saying you may have a vacuum line in the wrong spot pressurizing the sump which is a possibility. IE as the turbo comes on boost you are pressurizing the sump and not letting the oil flow from the galleries in the head back into the block/sump. Not sure where the boost would be coming from though, if its doing it though it won't be good for the turbo either as it won't drain back correctly. Your best bet may be a AN-12 drain from the back of the head into the sump, a drain from the catch can back into the sump and two -10 or larger breathers into the catch can. Having a large catch can with plenty of surface area helps remove the oil from the air. How thick is the mineral oil you put in? Even if its 20w-50 I don't see it being a problem. Still be interesting to see how much oil pressure its developing? Do you have an oil pressure gauge?

Quote: Originally Posted by Nukz [View Post] Not sure if this has been answered but what size are your breathers from the rocker cover......and an obvious one..do u have a filter on your catchcan?? the rocker cover has standard fitting with a standard hose going to the catch can, yes l do have a filter on the catch can. Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT [View Post] I mean the filler cap on the rocker cover, the big black thing at the front top of the cover where you put the oil in. I was just meaning if its breathing hard at idle you may have problems but like you said I doubt its doing it. I will go and have a look now. The builder is saying you may have a vacuum line in the wrong spot pressurizing the sump which is a possibility. IE as the turbo comes on boost you are pressurizing the sump and not letting the oil flow from the galleries in the head back into the block/sump. Not sure where the boost would be coming from though, if its doing it though it won't be good for the turbo either as it won't drain back correctly. Your best bet may be a AN-12 drain from the back of the head into the sump, a drain from the catch can back into the sump and two -10 or larger breathers into the catch can. Having a large catch can with plenty of surface area helps remove the oil from the air. How thick is the mineral oil you put in? Even if its 20w-50 I don't see it being a problem. Oil rating is 20w 50. Still be interesting to see how much oil pressure its developing? Do you have an oil pressure gauge? No, didn't get time to install it today. If a vacuum hose isn't connected correctly which one should l be looking at first?

Buggered if I know... Get some photos up of the bay, and good photos otherwise we don't stand a chance. Obviously it has to come from a pressurised part of the system. So somewhere in the manifold part of the engine. If you only have stock sized hoes and so forth it may be an issue, they get blocked etc etc. They should be at least 1/2" to 3/4" in size and a -10 or 12 for what your wanting to do. A pretty serious GT42X powered 26/30 I doing a bit for at the moment has two drain backs into the sump, 2 x AN-12 breathers into a 4L catch can, and a -12 return into the sump.

vacuum on idle should be around -20

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT [View Post] I mean the filler cap on the rocker cover, the big black thing at the front top of the cover where you put the oil in. I was just meaning if its breathing hard at idle you may have problems but like you said I doubt its doing it. just checked and took the cap off, it is breathing but not hard, l can feel the air come out on my hand, no smoke it coming out tho. Don't know how to tell if its coming out hard or not...

You will have a little.. every engine does. Forged engines run larger clearances in the bores usually so breathing at idle and when cold is normal. As too how much is different to each engine. Maybe swing by the shop that built the engine or a RB specialist. They could probably tell you in 3 seconds.

I will start off by going to the engine builder tomorrow and see what he says about the vacuum hoses. Then l will go and install the catch can, just to make sure what l have to get. 1. AN-12 drain from the back of the head into the sump (AN-12 is a fitting? What hose size do l get? Do l have to drill hole into the sump or to the block and what size?) 2. Drain from the catch can back into the sump (what size hose, and drill into the sump? what size drill?) 3. Two -10 or larger breathers into the catch can. (when we say larger breathers into catch can we mean size -10 fittings or hose?) 4. Larger catch can with plenty of surface area helps remove the oil from the air. (how many ltrs). If someone could exactly tell me where to drill and what size drill l have to drill with hose size l would get this ready and installed tomorrow. I have put a pic of AN-12 fitting, one side will screw into the rocker cover fitting? the hose on the other side is a screw in type? braided line? Could someone please give me a complete guide down so when l go to the auto store tomorrow l know what to say. thanks heaps.

Get a quote on the hose and fittings and send me a PM. Every chance I can beat it significantly. I use AN-12 from the head to the sump as a drain. I use a AN-12/10 from the bottom of the catch can to the sump. You can use AN-10/12's as the breather size. You can't really just drill into the sump and tap a return into it.. usually you have to weld them on and do it while the engine is out of the car. As for catch can size, just make sure it has plenty of internal surface area. Using stainless steel wool or the like helps Check out my advertisers thread in regards to what the fittings and hose look like. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT [View Post] Get a quote on the hose and fittings and send me a PM. Every chance I can beat it significantly. I use AN-12 from the head to the sump as a drain. I use a AN-12/10 from the bottom of the catch can to the sump. You can use AN-10/12's as the breather size. You can't really just drill into the sump and tap a return into it.. usually you have to weld them on and do it while the engine is out of the car. As for catch can size, just make sure it has plenty of internal surface area. Using stainless steel wool or the like helps Check out my advertisers thread in regards to what the fittings and hose look like. My best bet would be to just get the whole kit from you, can you get me a list of what l need and what goes where incl price plus delivery please? probably go with the bigger fitting -12, please include catch can. thanks. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

would this be - 12 hose plus fittings?

Yep, thats -10 from memory. I would have to ask Joel.

Thats -10.

could you pm me a price list bud, similar to Joels car but with -12. thanks

hey mate i had nispro forgies many years ago ,filled a 1.25lt bottle of coke in one pass then tried 7 or so different rings and ways to bed in rings ,had no success ,went and bought wisco forgies which run a japanese race ring ,could run 30psi the hole pass and no oil in catch can . also gave my old nispro forgies to my mate ,setup up a 30/25 combo and this filled a 1.25 in one pass again!!!!!! also had n1 oil pump with no restrictors ,i would say oil pump and running in procedure is not the problem. what pistons and rings are you running?????? cheers

they are sps pistons. not sure on the rings, have to check it out with the engine rebuilder.

Quote: Originally Posted by FRKVLT [View Post] could you pm me a price list bud, similar to Joels car but with -12. thanks Lets just wait and see what the mechanic/builder says first. No point in me selling you something if it won't fix the problem. I just did a -12 setup and it was $360-80, but it was done a little different to normal. Your going to need a catch can with -12 male ends and so forth made 1st so you know how much braided hose you need. Hell you don't even need braided hose, you can just use EFI hose or something and brass fittings. In saying that what I sell you will work for ever, never leak and look amazing. Just depends on what you want.