for an extra $700 you could throw in a set of spool rods and it'd then handle 450rwkw and you would never have to think about it again.

I agree with Morgz. To save the extra heart ake if something breaks or is going to break because of a weak component buy your self some spool or precision rods.

good price id go the forged no point building a motor and u will always wonder **** will it let go? do it once do it right

so for spool or percision rods what am i looking at $700 which brings the quote to around say $5600 (to be safe)...

http://www.precisionintl.com/html/pr...torsports.html (http://www.precisionintl.com/html/product/crankshaftcomp/10_motorsports.html) About $730 a set http://www.spoolimports.com/content/...B30CONRODS.asp (http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLRB30CONRODS.asp) About $780 a set

hi mate i just also rebuilt my A8 pretty much up to your specs with a few differences eg block bored 30thou, oversized valves, new crank (not re-grind) due to too much wear n tear and a few other bits and peices and strengthened the standard conrods dont know how they will last, but by saying all that i goot mine for just abit cheaper and the guys who did it all for me said that ill be looking to handle anywhere from 400 to 450rwkw. But mate your quote to me sounds pretty good good luck...

Here's the receipt for my engine work back in 2007. Still going strong. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

for the cost of tuff rods, you wouldnt rebuild an RB30 now without chucking them in.

Compared to building anything these days, parts for RB engines are fairly well priced and plentiful in supply.. and there's definately enough people on here who've wasted thousands of dollars doing it, there's not really any excuse for getting burnt or making the wrong decisions anymore LOL .... You really do need to decide what you want out of the build and what kinda budget you want to stick to, and actually stick to it. For what you have stated you're after, I wouldnt even be bothering with rods or pistons. A little freshen up (rings/bearings) ARP bolts in the rods for peace of mind, if you're that worried and some oil system modifications.. That will be reliable as at the power levels you wish to achieve, while at the same time saving you some coin you could possibly put towards the fueling or engine management side of it.. or just in the bank lol It can be easy to go, yeh need rods, need pistons, ohh now i need a balancer, better get ARP everything, meanwhile the bill keeps going up and up and up, and then u buy a microtech for it and drive aronud on 15psi forever when the engine itself could handle 40psi lol... such a waste of money. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I have to agree, if i was to do it again i wouldn't go forged anything, for 300kw, it's not necessary. i've destroyed forged pistons with only 275rwkw... it's all in the tune. p.s. don't ask for a 'street tune' then drop the exhaust and head to calder... tears will follow. at least i can lol now....

so ive decided to go with whats listed in the first post, going to do the forged pistons, arp bolts and spool rods... hopefully will take it in this week sometime Most likely i will be getting the turbo side of things done by jpc, should i speak to them about anything before going ahead with the rebuild?

Quote: Originally Posted by VL-EXEC [View Post] Disassemble $100.00 Hot Tank $50.00 Crack Test Short $50.00 Reco Head $300.00 Consists of strip, clean, assess, hardness test, pressure test, clean, repair threads, recut seats, reface valves, surface, clean and re-assemble. R & R Pistons $110.00 this should be included in the disasemble and reasbly of the engine Bore & Hone $260.00 Deck $120.00 Clean Threads in block $20.00 block hot tank should include this 12 guides $100.00 Are these not included in the head? Balance $200.00 Assemble Long $1,000.00 Re-Size Rods $90.00 This would be per piston. Stage 1 port $200.00 not needed Regrind crankshaft $180.00 Engine Kit $600.00 Consists of new rings, bearing, full gasket set & new welch plugs. Forged Pistons $890.00 Water Pump $60.00 Timing Set $100.00 Cam $250.00 Re face Lifters $100.00 Valve Springs $200.00 Total Parts $xxxx Total Engine $4,750.00 theres a few odd things here that ive outlined above in red IMO, strip the block yourself, give them the head block and crank Buy a spool rebuild kit RB20 - RB25 - RB26 - RB30(SOHC) - $2390 with CP forged pistons Spool Forged H beam Conrods CP or Ross Forged Pistons ( Rings, Pins and Locks Included ) Cometic MLS Headgasket ACL Race Series Big End Bearings ACL Race Series Main Bearings Bore & Hone $260.00 Deck $120.00 Balance $200.00 Assemble Long $1,000.00 reco head $300 regrind Cam $200.00 Re face Lifters $100.00 Valve Springs $200.00 Total of $4770 just need welsh plugs and oil pump also, for the price you pay to prep your rods with ARP bolts and resizing them, you could get spool rods

Quote: Originally Posted by theVLguy [View Post] Clean Threads in block $20.00 block hot tank should include this By cleaning the threads it means they use a thread chaser to clean up the thread, not re-tapping but just cleaning out any material in the thread, and fixing any thread damage.

Any one else have any other advice really wanna get this in this week?

Quote: Originally Posted by exchaser [View Post] Compared to building anything these days, parts for RB engines are fairly well priced and plentiful in supply.. and there's definately enough people on here who've wasted thousands of dollars doing it, there's not really any excuse for getting burnt or making the wrong decisions anymore LOL .... You really do need to decide what you want out of the build and what kinda budget you want to stick to, and actually stick to it. For what you have stated you're after, I wouldnt even be bothering with rods or pistons. A little freshen up (rings/bearings) ARP bolts in the rods for peace of mind, if you're that worried and some oil system modifications.. That will be reliable as at the power levels you wish to achieve, while at the same time saving you some coin you could possibly put towards the fueling or engine management side of it.. or just in the bank lol It can be easy to go, yeh need rods, need pistons, ohh now i need a balancer, better get ARP everything, meanwhile the bill keeps going up and up and up, and then u buy a microtech for it and drive aronud on 15psi forever when the engine itself could handle 40psi lol... such a waste of money. I agree with Ollie to an extent... but I think in this day and age, prepping, shot peening and resizing standard rods is a waste of time and money. Yes you may have a combo that could handle 600hp and you only want 400... but as we all know once you have experienced a bit of boost you will want more.. and its nice to know that you can turn the boost up and the engine wont crack the ****s... and it hasn't cost you anymore than it was going to anyway. I got given a set of ARP rod bolts with my rods, and a set of nissan bearings or ACL race bearings are a good idea, cp pistons are cheap and excellent quality and a proven winner. I wouldnt touch the oil system (including sump), and balancer wise you can get a romac or powerbond for under $350 which is not a ball breaker. Just need to find a very good mechanic that wont rip you and knows his stuff. Plenty of people on CT will help u make up your mind. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yeah thanks for all the help so far, but i really wanna take it in so he can get started, so bassicaly this is it: Hot Tank $50.00 Crack Test Short $50.00 Reco Head $300.00 Consists of strip, clean, assess, hardness test, pressure test, clean, repair threads, recut seats, reface valves, surface, clean and re-assemble. R & R Pistons $110.00 Bore & Hone $260.00 Deck $120.00 Clean Threads in block $20.00 12 guides $100.00 Balance $200.00 Assemble Long $1,000.00 Re-Size Rods $90.00 Stage 1 port $200.00 Regrind crankshaft $180.00 Engine Kit $600.00 Consists of new rings, bearing, full gasket set & new welch plugs. Forged Pistons $890.00 Water Pump $60.00 Timing Set $100.00 Cam $250.00 Re face Lifters $100.00 Valve Springs $200.00

Engine was taken in and work has slowly started, everything's been cleaned and parts are arriving Thursday... will have some pics to post up then... still finding it hard to find some info on what ill have to do next, if anyone can give me any info on the above or even post a link to another thread, Ive searched and cant really find exactly what i'm looking for...

Some pics of the progress, ended up changing my mind last minutes and decided to do I Beam Spool Rods, so waiting for them to come in... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Cam Details: 1522b on 112, custom grind... Spool Rods (I Beams) delivered... Waiting for Jim Berry Clutch to arrive for balance Was told should make 320rwkw on 15psi with the right setup, I Beams: Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by VL-EXEC [View Post] Cam Details: 1522b on 112, custom grind... Spool Rods (I Beams) delivered... Waiting for Jim Berry Clutch to arrive for balance Was told should make 320rwkw on 15psi with the right setup, How much was the Jim Berry clutch? Did you have to send yours up to him? or does he have them allready made.