The SR20s are good but not as strong as the RBs. i wouldn't push it over 250rwkw. Also the SR20 gearboxes aren't known for handling power (but your probably gonna have an RB25DET box or an RX7 box anyway, depending on what you choose)

i say drag car..as the law and cops are too tuff,,who wants defects my project is a vl with a rotor in it,,hope it will shake the rbS when its finished Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I'm going a 12at still. Just building it properly so that it lasts. Most likely on straight gas using gra. Was just curious on what Darren said. I know of a sr20det for sale with a 5 speed manual ATM $800. Possible spun bearing though. ---------- Post added 15-08-10 at 20:35 ---------- I'm going a 12at still. Just building it properly so that it lasts. Most likely on straight gas using gra. Was just curious on what Darren said. I know of a sr20det for sale with a 5 speed manual ATM $800. Possible spun bearing though. Oh and that's why I'm only going 12at not 13bt due to I the car will be getting engineered.

Quote: Originally Posted by wpn_vl [View Post] so your saying i'd be better of going with an sr20det then a 12at? how would it make more power? i've heard of crank's twisting and rod's stretching in sr20's. not sure if that was only the s13's or what, but apparently anything over the factory rev limit or 14psi they'll do that. i know my cousin's s15 is still going mighty well at about 240rwkw with only exhaust, fmic, intake and a tune. Mitsubishi 4g series would be best out of the 4cyl, they have the best cylinder head to start of with. Nah not saying a 4cyl would be better, just saying if your taking total horsepower through a set of mufflers on pump, its easier with a piston motor. It's just hard/expensive to get a awesome exhaust for a rotary that keeps it quiet/makes power., although its obviously not impossible, the SMB? brand seems to be the go, i would look into that. What i'm saying is piston 4cyl, 270rwkw, take of the 3 inch exhaust and it would make no more power, 12at 270rwkw take of the pipe and boost will probally rise and it would make another 20-40rwkw. Just saying spend the big bucks on a killer exhaust for the rotor the package your talking about, i could see making 12at, extend port, 3540 270rwkw on pump on 17-18psi,(130ish mph traps) throw in a auto and lose 30-40rwkw...I am no rotor expert though, had one(13bt ke20) but never finished it due to kids etc. cheers darren

^^^ Yeah agreed with Jet R31. The Rotors get loud/noticeable when they push 300rwkw+ or even less, whereas a 350-400AWKW RB26 can still be fairly quiet. But ive gotta say, there's nothing like a rotor comming onto boost hard and revving all the way through to 8000rpm+ Alot of people bag the 12A & say it's not good enough, but they can be a potent engine when setup/tuned correctly.

Ah now I see. That's one of the reasons for only going an extend port also instead of a bridge. Also I have heard a fair bit that the evo engine is the better engine. Ok it's probably more wanting to go 12at. The main thing that keeps turning me off is when I think of how much more it's going to cost me with the rotary. It's $2,500 for a healthy standard 12at then gotta get the gearbox ontop of that. Keep thinking that if I grabbed the sr20det I mentioned before that's going to save me enough money to be able to rebuild it with some decent internals. Can get the engine alone for $400. Then if I decided to go manual yeah I would go an r33 the lentgh of them is shorter meaning the gearstick won't be in the middle of my handbrake lol. I do also like being able to be quieter adds to the sleeperish look I'm after. So yeah still might possibly go a 4 banger. There's also the 2rzfe Toyota 2.4 4 cylinder engine to look into.

Peoples idea of a streeter varies. In my eyes as long as all the the lights work, has an interior and aslong as it doesnt have lexen windows or alloy rods, it qualifies as a streeter.

True that. So long as it's engineered and legal to have the engine and turbo then it'll get street driven as much as I can. Still really want the 12at. Might shop around a bit more for prices

i just read that you want the gas tank on the back of the seats so u can fold it down... do u know how heavy a gas cylinder is when its full AND do u have any idea how a gas cylinder works? you cant just fit it however u want, then change the angle of the tank whenever u want....

I'd actually only thought of the weight to be honest. Which is quit stupid on my behalf. Might try and see if I can get a couple smaller ones under the car in place of the standard fuel tank. Still can't believe I didn't think of that

Theres those donut ones that fit inplace of a spare tyre like in a ute or wagon, that could easily be made to fit under a car using a simple bracket.

Yeah was thinking of them if I can't get ones like the ba wagons have

msg me when u know the sizes i can get all sorts of tanks

Will get some measurements and let you know. Thanks heaps man.

Will sell my legal engineered 400 chev rx4 for the right price no pollution FTW. Anything pre76 is a good start if you going for a streeter.. yeah it wont handle , yeah its squeals and groans but its got more sex appeal then these modern day cars. And the golden rule Anything with a chrome bumper will just increase in price ! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

My engineer said it's mid 75 where emissions were bought in. Mines a 77. But still only got meet the factory corolla emissions. And going straight gas I'm sure that will be a walk in the park even without a cat ---------- Post added 21-08-10 at 23:33 ---------- just found an sr20 for heaps to cheap to pass up. so have just purchased that couldn't get myself to justify the cost of a 12a let alone building one that will last, so opted for the sr20 as it will still get me what i am after and at a cheaper cost Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I think you'll find that your emissions have to meet the year or the donk, not the shell it's going in

Quote: Originally Posted by 7FOUR7 [View Post] I think you'll find that your emissions have to meet the year or the donk, not the shell it's going in Thats how i thought it work well it is in NSW.

adr27a or something got it in a book somewhere aug 76 cannister required. The emission controls are based on the year of the motor.. etc put a vn 5 litre into a lc torana and legally it needs to meet whatever emission controls came out in vn 5 litre.. same thing with ls1 and so forth. Got nothing to do with body.

vic is to do with the the body and not the engine. nsw is the other way around. i got the info straight from my engineer.