yeah fair enough. I'm just about to take the old gear box out. Ran out of time on sunday because of a family occasion and I've been to hung over to do anything today. The tailshaft bolts were so annoying to get off. I can't wait to finish. It will probably be a few weeks though, I still have to put in the lsd, oil cooler and shifter.
By the way, has anyone managed to fit an oil cooler in front of a radiator,aircon fan and a intercooler? I might try cut out that front reo bar on the bumper and see if I can squeeze one in.
Some good advice is - you don't need to bash out the tunnel near as much as it will first look like. Set the box up nice and safely balanced on a jack then you can wheel it in and jack it up and put some texta marks where it needs a belting. Then wheel the box back out of the way and do some whacking, make sure the car is very stable on stands at this point. Continue this little bit at a time until the box can fit right up and allow a bit of clearance for the box to torque with the motor.
I went a bit over board with belting mine out because i was gauging it with the bellhousing a inch or so back from the block face every time, so get it right up on the motor as it makes a real big difference to how much you have to massage out.
One more thing you will need is a trans temp sender/guage as no one wants too fry a box.I have a deep pan in mine i drilled and tapped into the rear of the pan as low as possible which is the best place i was advised. Another thing i will add from my experiences and advise that has been given too me from the people who know is massage the tunnel around where the fittings for the trans cooler bolt into the box just for safety.Use loctite 577 too seal them into the box and carefull with the fittings in that you dont overtighten them let the 577 do the work.
Have you got it in yet mate? Im thinking of fitting up my glide this weekend, what id like to know is the distance from the back of the box to the front of the diff so that i can get my tailshaft made, can anyone give me that distance??
nah havent yet hopefully it will be in ths weekend, the old one is out but i have no time atm. i was just going to take it to workshop on a tilt tray and drive it home distance would be hand to no. and how much for a powerglide yoke?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Could anyone tell me what these are for...
These were connected to the gearbox, I'm guessing I don't need a couple.
These plugs are from the center console area running under the carpet the front of the car under the dash.
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Here is the white + yellow plug that is above the brakebooster. It connects to the 3 plugs that I showed before
And these wires connected from the plug to the thing on the picture below
In the first pic, the white thing with the yellow tape is the auto selector. it's the switch that tells the car what gear you've selected via the shifter. That's what eventually goes off to the neutral position relay, which you modify when converting to manual.
You shoul dhave awhite and yellow or just yellow plug on your firewall, to the right of the brake booster in the egine bay; that's concerned with your reverse lights.
The two plugs in the third switch are for the auto shifter surround lighting (so you can see P, N, etc at night), and the power button on the standard shifter.
Plug on the right with the pink and black wires, first pic, is the downshift solenoid plug. Plug on the left, first pic, pink and light blue wires, is for the torque converter clutch solenoid. And I reckon the black plug with what looks like a pink and white wires would be the overdrive cancel solenoid.
Not sure about the last pic (on the Powerglide, I guess)?
Second pic is the one of the solenoids, not sure which one.
theVLguy may have more ideas?
Okay cool.
Pretty much I need to know what I don't need then I can work from there and try figure out the rest. Keeping in mind I have a B&M pro ratchet shifter not the standard.
i added 3 more pictures, the last 2 I don't have a clue what it is for.
From what I am guessing, I don't need:
-auto selector just the neutral wires (bridge or something?),
-The 2 plugs in the third pic for the auto surround lighting and the power button
-Downshift solenoid plug
-Overdrive cancel solenoid
Do need
-Plug on the left, first pic, pink and light blue wires, is for the torque converter clutch solenoid??
-Reverse lights
-Neutral position relay
The plug shown in the 5th pic is the yellow and white one you said at the right of the brake booster so I'm guessing one of the 3 plugs in the first picture you mentioned may be wrong and should be for reverse lights?
Thanks
Unless the B&M has any lighting, you can remove them both.
Second new pic, with the grey plug and booster; that goes to the big white D shaped thing in the very pic with a hole in it (shifter selector switch. You can modifying the wires by connecting them in pairs until you get a combination that makes the car think it's in either P or N permanently (start in any gear).
The white plug goes off to the light switches on the box (reverse lights). That's where you need to work out whih two are for reverse. And connect them up to the switch on the glide.
Not sure about the last pic, but if you follow the colours of the wires against the diagram you should be able to work it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vltrb-0
solenoid on the powerglide is for transbrake? i dunno if your gearbox is fitted with one or not
Yeah thats what I thought it was for but it looked similar to the solenoid on my n/a box. But yeah it has a trans brake so that would be it, thanks
Just a couple of things, hard to see from the photos.
-The grey plug doesn't go to the shifter selector it goes to the thing on the last picture which I don't know what it is, the shifter selector goes to another grey plug that is bigger with more wires.
-The white plug connects to the three plugs in the first picture it's all one piece.
Ah, my bad. Um.....what sensors/switches does the glide have? Can you show us them?
No doubt a fully manualised t-braked glide will have a few less things.
The only switch it has is for the transbrake I think. Nothing else, that's what so annoying, everything will have to be re-wired or gotten rid of.
The pro stick has two tabs on it to create a circuit when put in reverse or park/nuetral I think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun_VL
The only switch it has is for the transbrake I think. Nothing else, that's what so annoying, everything will have to be re-wired or gotten rid of.
The pro stick has two tabs on it to create a circuit when put in reverse or park/nuetral I think.
ok for your glide this is what you do:
remove old box anything that connected to it is gone except the neutral start switch (selector metal thingo)
them them away or cut them off
wire your new transbrake job finished, the same goes for any manualised box with a transbrake
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun_VL
reverse lights?
should go through the neutral start switch steel thingo the box tells it where its at providing its adjusted correctly
either that or its done by a trigger on the original shift of which i haven't yet studied but i know when i did my 3spd i pulled out every wire except t-brake and nuetral start and as far as i know it all worked perfect
if your worried just tuck them away for now
easy test disconnect all the linkage and move hte selector if the reverse lights come on then you know its in cabin, otherwise just keep connecting things till you get the lights on
Yeah the pro ratchet has the gear to wire Neutral Inhibitor and reverse lights into it then you just wire the transbrake solenoid to 12 volt power with a switch and a button in that order between the battery and the solenoid
