If you've removed the relay and haven't rewired the orange wire to battery 12v, then this is your problem. This orange wire also goes to the ecu. I'm guessing that it needs to be unswitched 12v....not ign switched 12v. In saying this, you have 12v to both terminals on the injector plug which is normal. The ecu switches the injectors to ground. This statement concerns me though..... Quote: Originally Posted by legal6 ....regulator is working as flow comes out the fuel return on the rail too.... Just to clarify, the fuel should be returning from the hose on the reg......not the hose on the rail. That is, fuel feeds directly into the rail. The regulator then restricts the flow of fuel OUT of the regulator to maintain a constant fuel pressure. The high pressure fuel pump by itself does not provide high pressure fuel to the rail. The pump needs to see a restriction (the reg) to create the pressure.

Quote: Originally Posted by MonstaS4 If you've removed the relay and haven't rewired the orange wire to battery 12v, then this is your problem. This orange wire also goes to the ecu. I'm guessing that it needs to be unswitched 12v....not ign switched 12v. In saying this, you have 12v to both terminals on the injector plug which is normal. The ecu switches the injectors to ground. This statement concerns me though..... Just to clarify, the fuel should be returning from the hose on the reg......not the hose on the rail. That is, fuel feeds directly into the rail. The regulator then restricts the flow of fuel OUT of the regulator to maintain a constant fuel pressure. The high pressure fuel pump by itself does not provide high pressure fuel to the rail. The pump needs to see a restriction (the reg) to create the pressure. thank you very much for that Monsta just re aranged my fuel pipes monday mate is coming up and will be fixing this prob cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

well wired in the relay as mentioned before and it was no diffrence same as we had before we have pulsing in the injector loom, fuel presure in the rail but the #1 plug is bone dry the little tail stock on the injector to rail is presurised when connecting a NA injector too the loom while having a pipe full of water and pressured on its tail it squarts water the injectors were clean and tested before i got them apparently seems too me that the injectors are the prob. whats your thoughts??

Assuming the injectors are the right impedance (2 - 7ohms), and you have the correct fuel pressure, theres nothing else it can be if you are getting a pulsing signal at the injectors.

Did you paint the block? I was getting poor earth after i did mine and had to wire brush it to get a decent connection. Could try to manually earth the battery yourself with some jumper cables

only other thing i can see is the injectors are not opening the block was painted before and the earth strap is using the bolt for the engine mount which was un painted and bare metal is making full circuit in the power supply well i went down to hi tech dyno and spoke with John Keen today told him all what ive done and what i thought he said quite possible the injectors were clogged shut as they have been sat around for a while or the old owner might not of got them cleaned like he said so took the manifold appart and injectors are out now tommorow dropping them off to be tested, bathed, ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested for $8 each i smelt down each runner too see if i could even get a waft of fuel but out of the 6 runners only one had a fuel smell so likly 5 out of 6 were blocked and the one which was fine allowed it to splutter for those few secs tommorow night i might chuck them back in and the manifold together before i have to go out too see the misses fingers crossed this is the problem as im running short

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=160891 Thats a thread i started mate. Had a same issued and stuffed around for ages thinking wiring was wrong, cas was dead, timing belt, all sorts. Went mental trying to solve it as everything was right as far as i could see. It did exactly as you described, would start and splutter and do weird things or wouldnt start at all. In the end was just a vacuum leak. My lesson learnt, don't overlock the little things...

well i got the injectors cleaned today and one was blocked all fixed now and all flow even yer m0rph3us i read your thread about the problem and thats where i came up with the idea of a intake leak now i am currently sat here scraping the old gasket of the top half of the plenem and i just spotted something out of the corner of my eye the little vacum port on the throttle body just under the TPS i did have a vacum rubber cap on this blocking it off but now its not there was this the pipe that caused you the problem? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah that was one of them, i THINK, that is the one that bypasses the throttle plate to a small hole behind it (proboably too let air when off throttle/idling). It was that one aswell as another one which, from memory is in that picture between the tps and idle valve

cheers for that mate the one just under the pipe in that pic i had plugged off but this one under neath i must of knocked off ill have all the manifold back together tonight and let it dry over night before trying again all back together with them blocked off and no diffrence took the dissy out and had it all plugged in still turned it over by hand and the pump ran, injectors pulsed, heard the points arcing in the dissy so plugged in a new plug too the first lead, cranked over and im getting a orange faint blue sprak not a strong sprak what would cause a weak spark? coil pack??

___________________________________ changed coil pack with a new one well had a mechanic pop in to test something for me plugged in a injector pulse reader and spark plug test when cranking the car the starter motor was drawing too much power too allow the computer to produce a pulse so plugged in my spare dissy to the cas lead and spun it by had, which it produced a pluse and spark fine with the vs battery almost dead after many trys earlier and my mums car battery the same i tryed jumper cable and used both batterys the car ran for 15-20 seconds but really ruffly so appears my car batterys are both too dead too run my car. chucked the vs battery on charge for tonight and the mechanic has his jumper pack on charge so i can grab that in the morning also with the timming ive got it right set properly, the mecahnic made sure i had it correct but ive got a problem idling too get it too run i had to advance the dissy fully too max, so i moved the rotary arm one tooth around too see if it would run better but will only run when fully retarded its like i need it just between the two teeth on the shaft im thinking it could be because the lack of power in the battery is why im not able to get to run smooth as there is no inbetween on the dissy as the housing rotation compensaites

Once the engine is running, the battery has no effect.....unless it has shorted cells or something. The alternator produces all the power needed to run the car, so i can't see batteries as a being a problem. I seem to remember someone saying if you need to rotate the dissy fully to get the timing right, it means the gear on the back of the dissy shaft is on the wrong way or something.

When you say it starts for a few secs, can you rev it at all? Heres a few things too check: - Fuel lines on the right way? - Idle valve, TPS, air regulator... all plugged in? - The leads on the right cylinders and pushed tight on the cap? - Crack(s) or leak(s) in the dizzy cap or rotor

also did a compression test getting ruffly 125Psi or 900ish KPa on all cylinders so one thing im thinking right now is about timing belt cam might be off one tooth and letting some compression out and causing the timming issues the timming belt i took it off to remove the water pump but didnt turn the crank over or move the cam just removed the belt and put it back on after i fitted the pump i dont recall counting the grooves as i didnt move anything, just had it off for half hour too get the water pump off unless i had the belt slack on the non tensioner side and it gained a extra groove when i cranked it and brought the slack up on it is that possible? Quote: Originally Posted by m0rph3us When you say it starts for a few secs, can you rev it at all? Heres a few things too check: - Fuel lines on the right way? - Idle valve, TPS, air regulator... all plugged in? - The leads on the right cylinders and pushed tight on the cap? - Crack(s) or leak(s) in the dizzy cap or rotor nah cant rev it at all fuel lines are right way around as when swapped over it blows lines off near the rear from pressure on the back of the fuel reg the idle valve Tps and air regulators are all plugged in leads are all too the right spots dissy cap, leads and rotary arm are all brand new car is heading too a shop tommorow morning for there opinion. they thinking timming belt could be wrong from what they see tryed before they wont be fixing it though as im getting too short on funds plus its not a hard job, i think i can count well lol

ran a seprate earth cable to the battery and no diffrence above the alternator there is a plug from the engine loom has 2 oranges and blue - white tracer cable and not sure the other the blue white cable in my manual says it runs from starter too the computer what does this one do? is this too supply power to the computer when cranking or something else as this blue white cable isnt wired in, where my old starter was factory and plugged in

It doesn't supply power to the ecu, but it does provide a signal to the ecu when cranking. I suspect it modifies ignition timing and fuel trim to aid starting.

bump so this blue/white wire goes to constant 12v. how did you go with the car mate

put a new timing belt on last week and set it up correct yesterday i tryed the blue/white cable to power but no luck stirpped all my AFM loom and double checked the connections the mesh on the gray cable had come loose so i bridged it back up no luck wanted to try a drop test on the starter system to see if power supply/return is the reason why it cranks slow but i have the battery in the boot so cant exactly reach with my multimeter thinking the starter motor is wrong and draws too much i swapped it with my orignal one (new one ive never tryed before) plugged the plug back in and connected the blue/white wire back to the factory plug try turning it over and the selinoid clicks loudly but no strong effort at turning the engine over maybe half a spin on the crank i think im going to have to give a auto elec a call and see what he can pull out his ass

The starter motor cannot be wrong (electrically). They need big amps to turn over fast. Either you're batteries don't have the capacity needed or the connections are poor. If the voltage at the ecu drops below about 9v you will have problems. This is exactly what will happen if the battery is struggling to find the current needed to turn over. There is no reason why you cannot test the voltage at the starter. Just put one lead on the big ass terminal and the other to the starter body (bare metal). This is the best way to test it as you are taking into account volt drop on the earth.

should i try just as is or while cranking? Or both?