I have seen all 3 of those cars in the flesh with thier burnouts. They are pretty much dedicated torque machines with the sole purpose of shredding tyres and looking and sounding bloody fantastic while doing so. I am not aiming to have a VLT burnout car. I am however wanting to go through some tyres as I feel the need (maybe once every 3 or 4 months??) and need it to stay cool while I do it. Most VL skidders are either N/A and sound like crap and put out sweet fark-all smoke. The few VLT skids sound alright, but lack the control to do a good burnout (ie, usually end up flicking it about too fast loosing control and loosing the smoke). I usually sit in 3rd or 4th gear (~130-170 kph rear tyre speed). See my avatar for a my burnout at Power Cruise 7 (that was 2nd gear with no P/S belt.. lol). May not be burnouts that make the talk of the town - nor do I proclaim them to be the best burnouts. But it is something I like to do on the odd occasion. Regardless of this - still wouldn't mind ensuring that the car keeps cool as efficiently as possible by putting the thermo on the back of the radiator Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

There's an idea right in what you said. You were running with no power steering belt. You could pop the power steering pump and the drive pulley off the harmonic balancer, throw the new thermo on with a shroud and see if it works. If not you haven't done anything permanent and know the problem is elsewhere and if it does work, well and good you can start setting up a cstom power steer pump mount

Talking to little bro, he has an engine on a stand at home. He was looking at his p/steer pumps and all three are different. He isn't sure which is genuine or not. Looking at the one that is on the motor, it is held on by and allen key and would require a bit of work to move it back on the lathe. He is going to have a play sometime this week when he gets some time. He thinks it may be easier to remove said pulley and machine it round then machine in a keyway and press fit a larger pulley on to the shaft the required 17mm back. He thinks it may have neugh clearence but he isn't sure and will wait till he trys it. Few thats a mofo story.

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT Talking to little bro, he has an engine on a stand at home. He was looking at his p/steer pumps and all three are different. He isn't sure which is genuine or not. Looking at the one that is on the motor, it is held on by and allen key and would require a bit of work to move it back on the lathe. He is going to have a play sometime this week when he gets some time. He thinks it may be easier to remove said pulley and machine it round then machine in a keyway and press fit a larger pulley on to the shaft the required 17mm back. He thinks it may have neugh clearence but he isn't sure and will wait till he trys it. Few thats a mofo story. Thanks for checking into this. The p/s pump i have is the later model rear feed pump. It has an allen key hole on the front. Sounds like a bit of a stuff around to get another pulley on it then?

Quote: Originally Posted by InsaneVL Thanks for checking into this. The p/s pump i have is the later model rear feed pump. It has an allen key hole on the front. Sounds like a bit of a stuff around to get another pulley on it then? Yeah from what he was saying, it would only take a machinist with some skill provided you could get the pump apart and the shaft out. Take off the old pulley, part the shaft down to the required length, machine in a keyway, press fit new pulley from an engineering place with new keyway bit. Put pump back together bolt on car. I havn't actually eye balled it myself, but it would take some thought and some measuring for block clearence etc. A lot of effort. I would def remove pulley and belt then trial fit the thermo and go from there. If it helps then bother with the custom stuff.

Might be easier just to move the whole bracket back the 17mm then. I've got it all apart at the moment anyway - putting in a new water pump, so will have a look at it a bit more closely. Might also investigate moving the intercooler forward and the radiator forward as much as possible - might make needing to relocate the p/s pump a non-event.