Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.
04-05-09, 19:00 GMT+10#21 that looks sweet man. did you use spraycans for that?
close up it looks like you might have some orange peel, but i find it impossible not to get that when doing any spraying. so yea the 1200 is probly the go to rub that off, altho by hand its gona take a while. dont worry man just break out the beer and sand/drink/sand/drink
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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04-05-09, 19:27 GMT+10#22 HAHAHA , yeah slow process but i'll get there, I used a spray gun and compressor, Got 1 ltr of paint made up at auto one, 1 ltr makes 2ltrs (50/50) got about 4 coats of colour on it.
I tried a bit with wet and dry 1200 and it came up smooth as, thats how i found out it had a tiny bit of orange peel, but hey, beets paying a panel shop $600 bucks to spray it, to do it myself has cost me less than 100 bucks. Cant complain with that (unless it turns out sh1t) Bahahaha
Cheers Kevin
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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04-05-09, 21:04 GMT+10#23 anything different to do if there are scrathes or anything on the bumper? or will the primer will this?
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04-05-09, 21:09 GMT+10#24 Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu3-Vl
anything different to do if there are scrathes or anything on the bumper? or will the primer will this?
depending on how deep man you can:
sand em out (orbital really good for this)
use a primer/filler
use putty/bog, then sand even
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05-05-09, 13:20 GMT+10#25 Ive decided not to do my silver myself, I have a panel beater atm doing it all for $600, so its probably best i leave it to the Pro's
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05-05-09, 16:21 GMT+10#26 I'm halfway thru sanding back my door moulds, after reading this I'm gonna respray my own and save $700-900 on it...
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05-05-09, 17:49 GMT+10#27 Its well worth it, stuff paying them robbin bastards ,unless you REALLY have to, like im talking, you suck at painting haha, it really is'nt that hard.
That extra cash can be some mobs on ya car hahaha
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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05-05-09, 18:13 GMT+10#28 Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BEAST2NV
Its well worth it, stuff paying them robbin bastards ,unless you REALLY have to, like im talking, you suck at painting haha, it really is'nt that hard.
That extra cash can be some mobs on ya car hahaha
hey man you should post up some details about spraying with a gun, like what compressor and gun you used, flow rate, type and cost of paint etc, smash up some pics of your bumper when its done too
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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05-05-09, 18:51 GMT+10#29 Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BEAST2NV
Its well worth it, stuff paying them robbin bastards ,unless you REALLY have to, like im talking, you suck at painting haha, it really is'nt that hard.
That extra cash can be some mobs on ya car hahaha
Yep, I'm hearing ya bro!
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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13-05-09, 20:33 GMT+10#30 I have foudn that the yellow Primer filler is not only MUCH better but it will save you alot of money, as each front and back bumper will take 2 cans of normal primer each atleast if they have stress marks etc.
However i am only in the preration stages and am repairing all the panels and getting it ready to be sprayed. should i give it a hit with normal primer too before i get it sprayed or wont it matter?
Getting it sprayed at a shop, justting doing the prep myself
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22-05-09, 15:58 GMT+10#31 Done this too at least 5 vls pain in the ass but sure does look good it takes alot of time and a lot of beer an cost heaps less than paying the pros to do it great write up man
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21-06-09, 08:45 GMT+10#32 wow this thread makes it sound so technical... unless the moulds have deep scratches in it you can just use a lil bit of wet scotch brite to scratch the surface then go ahead n prepsol then paint it... allowing the coats to dry off before you put the next one on...
and i never sand it back before the clear just let the base coat go tacky n spray on over it
well thats my 2 cents
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30-12-09, 21:23 GMT+10#34 nah. sponge it to clean off the actual dirt but rinsing with the pressure washer will be fine. just dont hold it too close. if there are any cracks/peeling in the paint youll find the pressure will lift it right off, but if its all good and sealed it wont be a problem.
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16-01-10, 12:01 GMT+10#35 any tips on removing these moulds i only removed one yesterday and got crazy blisters from the paint scraper
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16-01-10, 22:34 GMT+10#36 do you give them a cut and polish after awhile or??
also is there any trouble with the laquer goin that ugly yellow colour from the sun?
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19-01-10, 00:40 GMT+10#37 Quote:
Originally Posted by dvl
any tips on removing these moulds i only removed one yesterday and got crazy blisters from the paint scraper
think theres a few threads around on varying methods, from fishing line to fillet knife to heat gun etc, i know whatever way you do it, it sux.
Quote:
Originally Posted by x_KYLE_x
do you give them a cut and polish after awhile or??
also is there any trouble with the laquer goin that ugly yellow colour from the sun?
never had to bother with the polish, the laquer seems to hold up fine too. if that happens just a quick rub and another spray would fix it.
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28-02-10, 23:33 GMT+10#38 can anyone intruct me how i could remove all my mould AND the strips on the door, and how to put them back on???
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06-04-10, 20:13 GMT+10#39 ^^^ i was just wondering the same thing coz i really dont want to break them...
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07-04-10, 11:31 GMT+10#40 wd40 LOTS of it, LONG kitchen knife or spatular
PATIENCE X1000000
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