How ironic - VL owners saying that different brands shouldn't be mixed. Whether it's car audio or home audio, or recordings studios or whatever - the fact is that many of the best speaker manufacturers don't make amps/source units and vice versa. Have a look on a car audio forum and you'll see that most good systems DO have a mixture of brands.

stevo's right. mix it up. also realise that the more commercial brands aren't neccesarily more bang for buck. if you want to buy the best pioneer or clarion (especially in terms of speakers) there are lots of more obscure brands which will give better sound and midbass for the money you will spend. also theres a lot of dosh in wiring and other materials. on a basic first time install you will need atleast 300 for wiring and then money for mdf aswell. then you will need tools and theres sound deadeners to think about. my advice is get a great source unit and large wiring. this will allow you to carry them over into future installs even if you spend a little less on amps and speakers for now. also best idea is to go to asmany different audio stores as possible and listen to what is in your price range. when you listen ask how much power is being run through the speakers and all the other details you might not think about at first either. g/l

i only listen for how many way is the speaker and it RMS and price. i dont want sound deadener

Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# i only listen for how many way is the speaker and it RMS and price. i dont want sound deadener a 4 way coaxial 6.5" will be much worse than a 2 way split 6.5" also wrms doesn't always mean better and price isn't the decider here. first tell the guy how much you want to spend on what components. then say what music you listen to, if you need more high end or more mid bass. what you plan to hook the speakers up to... or if you haven't decided what you can afford to hook them upto. not wanting sound deadener is fine but deciding what speaker to buy purely on wrms / how many ways and price is stupid. you have to listen to them. Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# Should i go type X or R ? yeah i was lookin towards pioneer alpine head units can i run 6 speakers , an amp, a mono block and twin or single sub in one car? would i need 3 pre-outs to run 6 speakers cause i need to runn then off a 4 channel and 2 chnnel to head unit and the mono block so 3 amps or could i bridge them all? also what car do you have? realistically 4 speakers are fine and the 6x9"s shouldn't be needed if you have a sub. you can save dosh here and spend more on getting good splits which will provide (generally) crisper mid than a 6x9 3way. aht. also i see your mums system is all pioneer except for the sub. is this stuff pioneer yellow cone? and what stores did you goto? because i personally think my 300$ mb quart splits are better than yellowcone pioneer and unless you are limiting your search to strathfield most places will not say pioneer are the best speakers available. have a look at some of my installs both of which are on this site. both are mixed and both sound great to me. go listen to some stuff and see what you think.

well i listen to techno,trance,rave so big bass stuff. so you reckon i should run spilts in both back doors and no 6X9's with front splits. some people say spend heaps on speakers etc but get a cheap head unit. i thought head unit was like the heart most important thing? my mums car has Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.5 Inch 260W 2-Way Components split Speakers in front doors and 6" speakers in back doors 220watts,head unit200watts,kicker subs is 1600 watts,amp is 800 watts, mono block is 800 as well.

Quote: Thats why i put spray foam into my boot lid sound deadener can make the difference between a good system and a great system, think about it mate lol

sounds deadener is great.maybe u should look into it mate.i got it and it sounds **** loads better

Quote: Originally Posted by Stevo 88 How ironic - VL owners saying that different brands shouldn't be mixed. Whether it's car audio or home audio, or recordings studios or whatever - the fact is that many of the best speaker manufacturers don't make amps/source units and vice versa. Have a look on a car audio forum and you'll see that most good systems DO have a mixture of brands. Its just that having different brands of Audio systems in a car makes it ... I dunno, seem cheaper, or less ... professional. Chaotic might be the word? Maybe its just me! I have no doubt in my mind that mixing brands could turn out to be a better system all up, but I have everything Alpine in my VL. Deck, speakers, subs and amp, and it all sounds pretty amazing anyway.

for starters... polk momo is great gear for speakers. don't know about subs though. this install is in a vl yes? heres what i'd do head unit - this is a key part of the soundsystem. you don't have to speng 2g on a source with gps / dvd etcetc. but it would be great to get a good quality unit with heaps of tuneability and 3 rca outs. also wattage of the h/u doesn't matter as you won't be using the h/u outs anyway. front stage - 6 or 6.5" splits. woofer in door in either a vs doorpod or a custom pod. some people say that tweeters should be as close as possible to the woofer to get good quality however i like to place mine in factory dash positions. i think it sounds better. i would recomend using blutak to place the tweeter in diferent areas and see what you think. with the woofer you will want it in a pod or on some mdf spacers because if you mount it into the door the windows will foul the magnets and you won't be able to get the window all the way down. rears - in my install i went 6.5" coaxials (2 way non splits) i did this because they provide the sound i want and they allow me to spend more money on the fronts. the front stage is more important for clarity and the rears generally provide fill. if you want to do 6 or 6.5" splits / coaxials that will be great. the concept with splits is that they split the frequencies but more than that with the other pieces removed from the speakers the sound is not distorted. on a 3 or 4 way speaker you have all that crap in the cone area and it distorts sound. rear parcel shelf should also be replaced with some thick mdf not the standard crap. 4ch - a 4ch amp and 2 rca leads from the h/u are key to retain full tuneability (fade / balance) you will want to think about 50-70wrms for a pretty standard application. also think about where the amp will be placed and where the tune controls are. if you put an amp under your seat the kicker amps are not going to be great because the tune knob thingys are on top and you will have to remove the amp to tune it. mono and sub - choose the sub first and choose an amp from there. in terms of subs you seem to have it sorted out (wrms is what you want to look for) however make sure its in a suited box, not just any old box. sound deadener - this doesn't have to be expensive if that is your concern. in my vlc sedan i painted the front doors, boot floor and parcel shelf with bitumen paint. mdf parcel shelf and speaker mounts in the front doors will also go a way to reduce rattle. sealing the door with baffles and dynamat or similair product (see what i did to the doors in my vy) will give you much more midbass and decrease rattles aswell. in your car you could easily spend under $200 on a trunk pack of dynamat and a tub of bitumen paint and in doing so deaden the front doors, bootlid, parcel shelf and probably have a little left. 4 screws in the numberplate and double sided foam tape on all screw holes (garnish / taillights / bumper / bumper moulds / numberplate screws) will make an incredible difference to rattle and will cost maybe $15 for a roll of tape. cheap. anyway hope this helps - Mitch

IMO do not mix all the brands. Keep you headunit and amps the same brand and speakers all the same. Some of the better speaker manufacturs are Focal, MB Quart, Cerwin Vega, JB, JBL. I have 9887 Alpine head unit with imprint in my VL and is very clean sounding with V12 amps and 3 way MB quart components in the front 2 12 type R subs. Is all out of the car at the moment as I am changing setups a bit. Anyhow, it starts with your headunit if it puts out crappy sound it will be amplified by whatever amp you put behind it. If you have nice amps you will get the best sound your headunit has to offer. Speakers are very personal preference, go have a listen and make your choice on what you here not what you read. that being said I have some Alpine V12 amps for sale you may be interested in. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=162543 http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=163083

Quote: Originally Posted by MrSquigle IMO do not mix all the brands. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

the 9887 that mr squiggle is talking about is very very ipod friendly yet still good quality which is why most people use it. and note he isn't saying don't mix he is saying keep the speakers the same as eachother and keep the source and amps the same. also i just got an alpine v12 amp and am stoked with it. theres no problem with 2nd hand gear as long as you ensure it comes from someone who has respected the gear and treated it well, not run it at full ability for 3 years and let it rattle around their boot unmounted.

but i thought sound deadener get rid of outside noises, why would i want that? i wanna hear my music pumping and my RB30 roaring.lol. i was thinking alpine head unit,with polk momo speakers,kicker or mtx sub, but dont knoww what amps to get, but everyone is saying alpine amps are good so i might go alpine there too. with my head unit sould i spend 200-400 ? or more on somthign decent from alpine with 3 rca outputs? i was thinking polk momo SR6500 split speakers in front,alpine CDE-102Ei head unit but only has 2RCA outputs, kicker SOLO-BARICL7 sub or MTX TR75 sub, polk momo MM651 in rear doors something like that, thats just rough guess lol

remember what i told you about rear doors? why do you want to put speakers in the rear doors? anyway sound deadener doesn't exactly stop sound getting in. it adds weight to a given surface and weight stops vibrations. there will be less road noise true but there will also be less noise created by your speakers vibrating the panels. sound deadener doesn't make the car silent trust me i sound deadened my vl and it still had a nice ring to it. why you would want sound deadener is to decrease audible vibrations from doorskins which will sound terrible. also sound deadener and properly sealing up the doors creates much more midbass. getting tight bass isn't as much in the sub as it is in the midbass range. pretty much it will sound better. your setup idea sounds great by the way i don't know the product numbers but it all sounds good. in terms of spend on a h/u i spent 550 on mine and another mate spent 450 on his. thats without direct ipod control and without any dvds. just plain old single din cd / mp3 / aux in / usb in source units. i would think 250 to 400 is a reasonable price to expect but weigh up the options and make your own choice. 200 is pretty cheap and you won't find much for that.

ok thanks mate , with the doors i have those thing that make the speakers pop off the door so its not inside the doors there poped out same with front splis too. and yeah i might look into sound deadner and get some, with amps i have heard a lot of good things about JBL amps too. what would you pick out of JBL and alpine amps? can i make a good system for big bassey songs like my trance,techno,rave etc etc with out it dissorting its ass off? lol or is that what amps are suppost to do and mono blocks for the subs?

like all things, it isn't until you perform deadening, buy an amp or get some decent speakers that you realise just how big a difference these steps make. becausre of this yeah you will be happy with the results without deadening and with cheaper gear but when you start comparing it to friends cars, you won't understand why their system is better. also you are driving a 1986-88 commodore. because of this the car will generally have more road noise and rattles than a new car so sound deadening is really needed just to bring the car to the standard of a modern car let alone getting the edge on your mates. for amps i would prefer alpine however i see a lot of guys using jl stuff, so maybe they are better than i thought. also even though the rear speakers won't interrupt the WINDOW GOING UP and down, the speakers will still sound better in the parcel shelf.

head unit : alpine 6" and splits : pioneer 6x9's : Pioneer Subs : Kicker Mono block : pioneer Amps : pioneer yes you should be able to run everythin....

LOL! i ment JL audio not JBL wtf. but my parcel shelf has already been pre-cut for 6x9s. how do 7X10s go?

4" In Dash: SP-402X schneider 6" and splits : Hifonics ZXI 63 6 1/2" Three-Way 375 Watts 6x9's : Hifonics ZXI 693 6 x 9" Three-Way 550 Watts Subs : Hifonics Olympus OLM1615 15" 3200W Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofer Mono block :SPA-7000X schneider Amps : SPA-4000HC schneider Your Paying For Quality with these items Pay More it will last longer go harder and sound better then other stuff on the market Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

never heard of schneider before