Pretty sure i am unshaven and i do have blonde streaks lol Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Jim Berry all the way as used in WHONXT

Well why do all the big HP gtr manuals have twins or triple's ??? Jim berry clutchs are good but if its a regulary driven car i dont think you will get half the life as you would get with a twin or triple.

Quote: Originally Posted by b-rad Jim berry clutchs are good but if its a regulary driven car i dont think you will get half the life as you would get with a twin or triple. Sorry but that's just not the case. My single did 40,000kms of street driving, hundreds and hundreds of passes on the bottle, Powercruise, too many skids and when it came out it was good enough to go straight into the new owner's drift car for a season and a half of racing before it was rebuilt because the box was out (not because it needed it) - a process that returned the clutch to as good as new and cost a little over $400. If that's not good enough then I don't know what is.

I'm using a Jim Berry 'full monty' clutch (with sprung center) in my car. (360rwkw and 700+nm torque) The clutch is fantastic to drive around the streets and no sign of any slippage when driven properly. However seems to slip 50% of the time when sidestepped in 3rd and above. I guess it's just a case of "driver abuse" though - as the clutch isn't really supposed to be sidestepped - however I would have thought that if the clutch was to hold a lot more power than it is already, it wouldn't have any issues slipping when sidestepped. So generally very happy with it's performance - until I abuse it . - but 700hp is a fair whack more go to ask from this clutch - and it would make sense to go with a double/triple plate to double/triple the friction surface area... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Its not really HP, but the torque level the clutch can transmit and the grip the car can provide. Just cause a clutch can fry a set of street tyres in 3rd doesn't mean it can handle constant abuse on semi-slicks or dr's.

Quote: Originally Posted by vp_luke However seems to slip 50% of the time when sidestepped in 3rd and above. I guess it's just a case of "driver abuse" though - as the clutch isn't really supposed to be sidestepped - however I would have thought that if the clutch was to hold a lot more power than it is already, it wouldn't have any issues slipping when sidestepped. So generally very happy with it's performance - until I abuse it . - but 700hp is a fair whack more go to ask from this clutch - and it would make sense to go with a double/triple plate to double/triple the friction surface area... Be no good as a drifter, side stepping the clutch 100 times a meet I'm sure if a big single was so good the jap's wouldn't have made triple/quad plate clutches rated at 1000hp seeing there the leaders of the performance manufacturing industry Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by vltnitron Be no good as a drifter, side stepping the clutch 100 times a meet I'm sure if a big single was so good the jap's wouldn't have made triple/quad plate clutches rated at 1000hp seeing there the leaders of the performance manufacturing industry Wow what a steaming load.

more plates = more torque it can handle... a single plate brass button with heavy pressure plate will do just fine.... but be prepared to break ****... for driveability get a twin or tripple... my brother had a twin plate in his rx3 it feels as soft as the clutch in my old chardade.. my granny could drive it!! but with the single plate brassy was **** house to drive!! pay the extra and get a twin plate if ur gona drive it heaps on the street too

Quote: Originally Posted by 2rismo Wow what a steaming load. do you have a manual in your car mate?

Quote: Originally Posted by vltnitron do you have a manual in your car mate? Quote: Originally Posted by 2rismo My single did 40,000kms of street driving, hundreds and hundreds of passes on the bottle, Powercruise, too many skids and when it came out it was good enough to go straight into the new owner's drift car for a season and a half of racing before it was rebuilt because the box was out (not because it needed it) - a process that returned the clutch to as good as new and cost a little over $400. If that's not good enough then I don't know what is. Hmmmmm....

face it jim berry is the vegemite of clutches

Quote: Originally Posted by MRKING face it jim berry is the vegemite of clutches yuck... vegemite? well not everyone likes vegemite Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

moved to the right section champ

Jim Berry Clutch. Install it properly, change the oil seals and degrease everything in the bell housing and only use graphite powder on the input shaft and pivot. True 350-400 rwkw is a **** load of power in any setup. The JB clutch will hold drag racing, street and drift. Drift is the hardest on the clutch and giving it a hard time will wear it out quicker. The benefits of a JB clutch is that you can re-puck them for cheap ($150-200) and make the clutch new again. There have been reports of R32 GTR's holding 440rwkw with a JB single clutch. For around $1000 new - its a bargain. Twin and Triple plates cost 2000-3000 now due to the exchange rate. 2nd hand clutches are cheaper but bound to fail. I've got a JB 4000lbs R32 GTR pressure plate and solid clutch plate (not sprung) that should handle the abuse of drag and drift in the RB30/26 combo. Furthermore, the JB clutch is the most streetable button clutch you could buy - even more streetable than my Brass Button RB30 clutch with half the clamp pressure. This is due to the material of the button (carbotic) and the way the pressure plate has been designed to pivot. Always use a machined flat, factory flywheel with a JB clutch. These Fidanza Cromo and other bs flywheels are for the tip. A stock RB cast flywheel can handle 11,000 RPM in an RB. Always install and use the dowels in the flywheel when you install the clutch as well. If you do not - the clutch will rattle loose and shear the bolts and really make a mess of your bellhousing and flywheel. Any car pushing over 350rwkw and racing should have a balistic blanket wrapped around the bell housing as an extra precaution. For $250 delivered, its a cheap insurance on your legs and firewall! Buy from: http://www.htcheat.com.au/shop/category21_1.htm

just bought a jim berry full monty 4400lbs 6 puck with bigger buttons and solid center will let yous know how it goes......

What was the price, if you don't mind me asking?

Quote: Originally Posted by darkstar clutch. Always use a machined flat, factory flywheel with a JB clutch. These Fidanza Cromo and other bs flywheels are for the tip. A stock RB cast flywheel can handle 11,000 RPM in an RB. Always install and use the dowels in the flywheel when you install the clutch as well. If you do not - the clutch will rattle loose and shear the bolts and really make a mess of your bellhousing and flywheel. not sure why, but jim convinced me in to buying one of these chromemoly flywheels which is why it failed twice. mine with fw cost $1650

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl What was the price, if you don't mind me asking? with swapping my clutch $1175

Anyone else running one of these? On standard flywheels and at what hp? Unsure what i want to do but have been advised to go this way. Not sure if i want a single twin or just go Auto