love the homemade spray booth, when you consider painters used to throw it on with a paintbrush you realize its all in prep,rubbing back and polish. Do it in 2pac definitely, lots of coats and lots of clear, learn how to get in to corners and keep the gun at a consistent distance away from the job that way you won't get thin and thick spots.

lol that booth is ghetto. ive been thinking of laying down wet blankets and putting up plastic aroud my garage cause its a good size to do so, but i was concerned about overspray and **** in the air cause i wouldnt be able to get any ventilation in there lol didnt you have problems with this when you did the ghetto booth ADICTV?

nah the beetle was painted in the same thing too..... Wat we did was at one end of the booth we got an old door and mounted 3 cheap fans in it from bunnings... and at the other end got some milk crates and wrapped them in shade cloth..for a filter we then wet the shade cloth and wet the floor and turned on the fans.... the spray booth also had plastic floors (dropsheets from bunnings again) .... we also put 2 or 3 heaters in there before and after painting.... posvl is right 2 pac for sure and the more coats you do the more u can cut it back to get the shine right.. hope this helps Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

lol thats pretty mad i saw that you had a fan or 2 in there after posting. wouldnt be too hard to put plastic sheeting everywhere in the garage and have a plastic doorway so to speak at the front and have an inlet and outlet tubing with a fan on one end sucking the **** out my garage is only one car space, so pretty small but enough room around the sides to move around n **** could be done me thinks!

we only had one car space too make sure u got heaps tack rags... to get all dust off.... and another tip go in there with the fans off first and empty an entire can of flyspray in there... u might think theres no bugs but when u start painting they come from everywhere and believe me we painted the bug perfectly then a moth landed and the roof and thrashed around on it f****d it all i should probly tell u that the bettle and vl took nearly 12 months each of prep working every weekend to get that finish better than paying for a ten grand paint job though Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

when i get my car buffed ill put pics up...

ok kool is your 2 pac or alrylic

acrylic still not sure if its gonna get buffed or repainted

mates home job Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

looks really good arylic or 2 pac

2 pac. **** pictures

cant really tell much from pics of this **** anyway lol just all sanded back using 80 then 240grit. still a long way to go, but its not too bad. roof driver rear door and 1/4 passneger side Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

looks like you making good progess ive done my roof.qtr panels got to put the car in the garage this week. so i can pop the screens out

its all down to prep work, you can pull a perfect job in a shed just like a booth all down to your work area cleanlyness and how you prep the job aswel as material knowlage correct hardners/thinners for the right temprature (weather) im on the boarded of home/work job all my panel work, prep, priming, then prep again was done at home paint was at work in a booth ill link you to my thread on JC. first post and 5th post has alot of pics on the prep. then painted pics are near the end of the thread (approx page 27) http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ct-vee-el.html (http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vl/36358-project-vee-el.html)

I wouldn't go spraying flyspray if your about to paint, the agents in the can could cause silicone spots you'd be surprised what contains silicone. Also someone said lots of clear, putting to much 2 pac clear on will give you a better chance of runs and lead to problems with solvent boil and reduced gloss levels, stick to 2 or 3 medium coats or whatever the paint manufacturer recommends, all companies have tech sheets with recomendations for mixing ratio's, number of coats, how to apply ie one medium one wet coat etc, flash off times (time between coats). just remember not to rush (will make it quite dry looking), slow and steady and dont finish on a panel carry off the side before releasing the trigger and pull the trigger on again off the panel so any **** that comes out of the gun comes out first off the job. don't have the air pressure to high, can increase the risk of peel and wastes the paint. cut in your edges first so you get the whole panel covered, nothing worse than seeing where the edge of a door etc isnt painted properly. I'd suggest doing acrylic first, very forgiving and teaches you technique, something that comes with experience once you have a good technique, switching to 2k isn't that hard. Also starting with a solid colour is good, doesnt show up bad prep as much as a metallic pearl etc (not saying your prep isn't good)

whats the key to getting a good shine with acrylic

Buffing the shit out of it. Might also pay off to lightly sand with 2000grit prior to buffing.

im thinking of trying 2 pac . but just try and paint a scrap panel im just curious

Quote: Originally Posted by Skitzvk whats the key to getting a good shine with acrylic it needs to be blocked down afterwards with 1500 or 2000 wet or dry then machine buffed. Another benifit of acrylic is you can put on heaps of clear as it dries very quickly. don't spray to dry it creates more work when rubbing it back, and if its to dry you'll never get a good shine out of it. When using acrylic a good cutters is as important as the quality of the paint, i'd suggest using farecla G3. Use a WHITE foam buff pad, the yellow pads are to course and can easily bite in or burn the paint. Let it cure for a week or 2 minimum before cutting as this gives it more curing time. Mist the panel with a water spray bottle like hair dressers use, reduces heat in the panel and decreases the risk of burning the paint. Also use a variable speed buff, bunnings sell the ryobi ones for about $110, great buffs for the money and have a 3yr warrenty (i have one myself as do alot of customers of mine), start off on speed one and move up, don,t go past about speed 3 or 4 at the worst. NEVER USE AN ANGLE GRINDER THEY SPIN WAY TO FAST! Then finish it off with a nice finishing wax/ pad glaze. I use 3m 05996 foam pad glaze or Malco flash wax, both great finishing products

2pac is not very easy for beginners... Acrylic is much more forgiving / easy to fix mistakes.