aftermarket ECU if you're running non stock injectors. if they are the wrong impedance the ECU won't work correctly with them (and may burn out the ECU over time) it sounds like (as you say they run ok with the NA ecu) they are slightly higher flowing that non VLT injectors... either get new injectors (VLT) to suit your ECU or get a new aftermarket ECU FWIW when i had my injectors checked 4 out of the 6 flowed fine, the other 2 were stuffed. so i replaced the whole lot with new ones (not cheap, $660) - but cheaper than a rebuild due to a lean out. something else that i think is worthwhile doing is scraping the carbon off the top of the pistons. mine were badly carboned' up after 400,000km. now nice and clean. actually most of the top end is either new or cleaned up to be as good as new.

its a fully recoed high comp engine, thing is even though the set up seems to be ok, i found out that half a tank of fuel was used up at around 85kms. this is no way normal.. i rather use my 308 right now.. anyone have VLT injectors for me?

FWIW i HATE the bolt holding the oil feed banjo into the block who does the braided turbo lines for oil and water. i want them. these solid lines are ****. 6 hours on one bolt and the ****er is STILL NOT ON all done. it runs (kind of). i started mid friday arvo, 15 hours yesterday and 6 today. all up - a solid 24 hours worth of effort (one guy) plus it involved a head swap as well my timing is out (by alot) - i counted 53 teeth but i think the dizzy is not centering correctly - i've marked cyl 1 on the dizzy housing but when i install the dizzy into the head, the rotor is pointing miles off cyl 1 and to drag it back to where it needs to be i then can't bolt the dizzy up... but i broke my CAS plug so yeah not doing a whole heap of much of anything now.... PS : advice for doing up the oil feed bolt to the block - undo the fitting FROM the turbo first, then, do up the fitting on the block THEN do the fitting up on the top of the turbo. its a 13mm ring/open ender... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

FWIW new CAS plugs are available @ Bursons for $17 Also : the washers for the oil and turbo lines can be had from Bursons too : they are sump plug washers - the oil ones appear too large and sit outside the banjo but seal up fine. The water ones are a perfect replacement fit.

Hi grega, call ENZED, they have done all my lines in the past, including fittings....and its a mobile service, so they come out to the car... hopew this helps. Cheers, Mick.

6hrs on the oil feed off the block? When I done mine it was a bitch but not 6hrs of a bitch. If there was a ratchet spanner in that size it would be soo much easier. When I did mine I un bolted it off the turbo too its heaps easier that way

Quote: Originally Posted by BOB18U 6hrs on the oil feed off the block? When I done mine it was a bitch but not 6hrs of a bitch. If there was a ratchet spanner in that size it would be soo much easier. When I did mine I un bolted it off the turbo too its heaps easier that way pretty sure snapon make a ratcheting spanner to suit.... Half the trucks is getting 2 wrenchs, 1 underneath it to push it up and another to tighten up. simple as that...

FWIW its a 17mm head i will remember it for a long time to come. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Kasman88 hey I did the conversion, the injectors im running are slightly higher flowing than VLT, that what i was told ( merc ones or something) and when i plug up my VLT ECU it runs really rich and idles crap, but when i have my NA ECU in runs fine, why is this and would there be a way of running my turbo ECU without doing anything damage to my car. I'd like to keep my enigne this time round :P simple your fuel map need to be remapped, aka nistune

hey guys i just bought a n/a turbo setup cheap engine wasnt running we didnt know WHY till we could pull head off did so to find melted pistone #4 cyclinder, also to find that it was still using a n/a auto computer what this course? also wiring harnes had been chopped into were the 5th and 4th injector goes #4 injector had been cut off were it should have been then spliced into were #5 injector goes What would this course? Also think car has a turbo AUTO box how do i tell differnce between n/a and TURBO?

where do you run to water drain to behind the block does anyone have any pics of how there did it

skitzvk : the return plumbs back into one of the heater hoses...i'll have a look for a pic EDIT: here : http://ta22.homelinux.org/grega/100_1949.JPG sorry about pic size

ive just done a conversion. its pinging even when the timing is full retarded. its running on 98 octane and its idle is pretty low. got all the stuff listed for a high comp conversion, vlt ecu vlt injectors t3 hi flow turbo vlt manifold plenum etc

Check the afm setting. You can lean it out just by turnin the screw on the afm. Also double check the cam timing as some na's have advanced cam timin and then check the dizzy for correct timing. Anymore than 15� retarded and it'll be a pig of boost. What injectors did you use?

vlt injectors. i retarded the timing fully because it didnt ping 'as' bad but it still pings. runs a bit slugish and yeah already adjusted the afm. dont no why it wud be pinging with the timing retarded all the way???

Even retarding the ignition too much will cause detonation. What settings did you set the afm to? 380ish is bout standard although my vlt was set on 311 and never detonated. The lower the number the richer it is. My suggestion would be some dyno time with a proper wideband a/f meter. That's the only way you can be sure

hey guys just wondering when everyone has done there conversion how there have bolted it all to the motor would it be easyier to bolt turbo to manifold lines to turbo then put the manifold on the motor and attach lines ???

Exactly like that mate. Keep the oil fed line ontop of the turbo loose but in place and bolt that line to the block before bolting it down on the turbo. In order Turbo with dump attatched bolt to manifold Bolt manifold to motor Then attach lines.

Quote: Originally Posted by BOB18U Even retarding the ignition too much will cause detonation. What settings did you set the afm to? 380ish is bout standard although my vlt was set on 311 and never detonated. The lower the number the richer it is. My suggestion would be some dyno time with a proper wideband a/f meter. That's the only way you can be sure would there be anything else that would cause pinging? i dont wana dyno until i get a cooler

Are you running 7psi? Anymore on a converted motor and it could start to ping. Standard na comp ratio is 9.0:1 if the head has been rebuilt before and could have been shaved which would raise the comp ratio. There could be a massive build up of carbon on your pistons which will cause it. The list is endless. How many k's does the motor have on it? Check the timing again. Were the injectors new? Second hand ones are **** and a waste of cash. Get a cooler on there and see if it helps and get it tuned.