Cool bananas, Im going to do a little testing with the regs and post the results. Im actually very interested to see what happens. Definatly agree with the 6A. I have one on my car too, for back to back testing but no one can deneiy the easy of use thats for sure.
As for the dwell with CDI there is none. There is no coil charge time just a massive release of power. Thats why is can be done 3 times and ignition event.
Quote:
exchaser - mate that's inspiring stuff! WELL DONE! How long have you been running this setup for?
Thanks mate.. Have been running the hicomp setup since about this time last year. The engine went into the car 2 days before Jamboree last year (the second time around November 3, I cranked they key about 8am on the Friday morning, the car was tuned that afternoon (360rwhp) on that dyno and I raced it at about 10am Saturday Morning... 11.2@119mph - straight pump fuel/mt street radials. So short time frame but everything went to plan. At the time then, the car had the standard coil/ignition setup... it was only a little later on that I started to have the ignition problems, but im pretty sure that was just to do with dwell settings in the ecu, which prior to just putting the msd 6a on the car, we never played around with to try and see if we could get more out of the standard ignition setup, because I was less educated at the time and didn't think to look into that area much as we apparently hadn't made any changes there..
The car has done heaps of passes with this setup, its been out to queensland raceway.. seen the dyno about 3-4 times... has since run 10.5@125 and then has since made even more power, still has never missed a beat...
Sean is probably right about the standard igniton taking and supporting alot more than most ppl decide to throw at it, Andy (PSI 747) for example has run 10.5@130mph with the standard coil setup, no cdi... however for the cost... there are gains to be had by upgrading the ignition.. much the same as their are gains to be made by using a rajab plenum over a standard plenum, as an example.
Of course standard parts can support rediculous amounts of power, but spend a little extra and change them for aftermarket parts and you can make rediculous amounts of power even easier and more efficiently, with room to push even further if you so wish, rather than being at the limit of a particular parts capabilities.
When I installed MSD 6A onto my car, it was as simple as taking the ignition output wire from the ecu wich went to the power transistor and feeding it to the msd unit, and then from the msd unit u have the 2 wires that run to the standard coil, the msd unit has an earth a constant 12 V supply and an accessory 12v. There were only 3 settings to change in the ecu itself, and the details for that were described on the website for that ecu, according to wat unit was being hooked up. It took about 5 minutes all up with a laptop.
Let everyone know how yours goes on the dyno and whether u manage to squeeze anymore out of the setup..
Ollie
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Dyno time tomorrow!
I've done the fuel reg (aeromotive a1000), base pressure is set @ 45psi.
I've also fitted up a mallory 6a unit. I had a few issues with it and some rougue sparking - but I solved those last night, I'd left the main earth straps for the engine/ecu loom loose after ripping the whole thing out and integrating the MSD setup.
Also fitted up a new dizzy cap and rotor - $65 bux! !
So she's all good to run up and get some numbers (and hopefully crank the boost!) tomorrow
For future reference, I didn't need to change any of the settings on the ECU for the ignition module to work - and i'm going through the transistor for the trigger.
Other than that, I've discovered the alternator isn't enough to support all this extra current at night time, with the headlights radio and heater on, falcon thermos going, 044 pumping... etcetc, so an upgrade will be in order as soon as the bank balance permits.
Stay tuned for some more info in the next day or so!!
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pigsy
have you done a fuel pressure test on them
they are all the same, the are just a simple valve that is controlled by manifold pressure/vacuum
Quote:
Originally Posted by airbagsVL
they are all the same, the are just a simple valve that is controlled by manifold pressure/vacuum
they're both rising rate 1:1???
edit - funny how the search button gives you answers?
made 230rwkw @ 15.5 psi
ran out of time to turn the boost up, unfortunately - so will have to wait a few weeks more to get more time on the dyno to wind up the boost a bit and go from there
running 15 deg of timing, found that between 15 and 18 was no real power difference, so seems 15 is about nice at that boost level.
AFR's are close to 12:1 on full noise.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
hey mate that's really good power. Id be aiming at around 12.5:1 at full noise. Too rich and your just wasting fuel and power. Also running too rich can cause detonation as well. What are your cruising afr's like? 110k's an hour 2000rpm or there about's with no load I'd be aiming at 15:1 to 15.2:1 afr's.You should then be getting around 600-700k's to a tank.
how does too rich cause pinging, running rich fouls plus, reduces power, drops cylinder temperatures, makes ur ecomny suck and black smoke goes everywhere.
i fail to see how it will cause it to detonate the mixture would be extreamly stable
Update:
Done a bit more tuning on the street again - got bored of the power pretty quickly .
I've upped the boost a bit, spikes to 20psi initially, then falls to about 18psi
AFR's are at approx 11.5:1, timing is still on 15 deg with no sign of detonation. using bp ultimate 98 now.
currently during spool-up the mixture goes a bit rich to approx 10:1 - i'm not sure if that's good or bad for turbo spool up. - according to the logs it goes from 0psi thru to full boost in about .8 seconds.
I'll try leaning it out a little bit on spool (11.5:1 or so) to try get closer to a full burn and hopefully more exhaust gasses... if it doesn't work, it can stay where it is
power wise it already feels a bit stronger. - breaks loose @ 80km/h when you give it a punch in 2nd gear. - I'm wondering if this is because of the 10:1 afrs on spool making the power come on very harsh? or if it's just normal?
for the record, I've had a few "king pings" along the way when being silly... but engine still seems to be running well! no signs of a busted gasket or anything yet *fingers crossed* I'm not actually sure how much it takes to break a motor as I've never broken one yet - but there's a first time for everything! - also I'm having an issue with everything leaning out as soon as the thermo fans come on. My theory on this is that the fuel pump voltage drops so it can't deliver as much fuel. 70A alternator just doesn't seem to be doing the trick for the pumps, fans and headlights on at the same time
so first i'll stabilise the afrs and get the spool right - then bore boost and more tyres.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
these are the sorts of threads that need to be made sticky or put in the tech section... that way maybe less threads will be made about it because the information is already there for everyone to see...
well done vp_luke, keep up the good work
sweet as!!
Hows the wiring to the fuel pump?? If its the crap stock wiring maybe think about wiring in a relay to give it more power, aswell as upgrading your alternator?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spool-Up
sweet as!!
Hows the wiring to the fuel pump?? If its the crap stock wiring maybe think about wiring in a relay to give it more power, aswell as upgrading your alternator?
The battery is in the boot, and wiring for the 044 is direct from battery (via fuse + relay), triggered by the stock pump wiring. The voltage drops to approx low 12v when the thermos come on - sits around 13 just cruising around at night with headlights on (no heater, stereo etc). - and sits around 13.8 with headlights off and driving around during the day.
I wanna stay with the thermos cause they look pretty, give plenty of room in the bay, and bring the coolant temp down REAL quick as soon as they turn on. Also draw plenty of air through the trans cooler. I figure every little bit helps when you're sitting in traffic with a big converter.
For all those interested, a copy of the last verified working tune is here:
http://www.mediafire.com/?ymyzmj3zwia
The spark map is a very base map made by the tuner - there's plenty of improvement to be made there.
the Fuel map is trial-and-error by me driving around on the street and viewing the wideband outputs etc.
for some reason I'm not hitting the 'fuel cut' (when engine braking with the throttle closed, it still pours fuel in there). I suspect this is because the speed sensor isn't wired in or something... I'll get there.
if anyone has any suggestions on the timing map and what it should be set at when spooling etc - speak up!
I'll do a bit more tuning, sort out alternator etc and see if I can get it back to the same dyno for a power run as a comparison
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
