It's not hard to get the bolts on because you put the turbo on the manifold when it's not installed. The pic below is how I installed the setup to my car 'as an assembly'. The dump pipe was also on. Stupid imageshack Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

when removing my stock hot side , there was one PrIck of a bolt that took ages to get too any tips when putting it back on?

I use a combination of ring spanners and sockets. A socket with an extension is good (if it's a 1/2" set) because you can thread it between the turbo and the manifold to get the two lower middle studs (which are probably the ones you're talking about). From memory they are the worst...could be wrong though, memory has failed me before.

yeah there the ones im sure ill get it eventually , i guess beer and turbo conversion doesnt mix? lol

Yeah i have to agree that the studs in line with where the oil feed on the turbo is the trickiest (to get the nut back on at least) and a 6inch extention with a socket will get it. Took me about 10 hours to change turbos over with no experience lol

at least i know i wont be the only one having dramas gettin to the harder nuts

cheers for the pic cjw. i think my water feed line is different to yours? not sure. what do i do with those lines that run along the n/a intake pipe. they run to the plenum from the air box/afm. cause ill be runnin a dose pipe. no airbox. and afm is in the cooler piping (not above rocker cover, after intercooler). and i think my exaust mani has been changed b4 i got it (so my old man reckons) ive only had the car a year. so it might not be that hard getting it off. so i should do up the lines b4 i fully tighten the exaust up?

Make the sure the banjo bolts are threaded and screwing into the block before you secure the turbo the to manifold, but don't let the turbo move so much as to bend the steel oil/water lines. Quote: Originally Posted by wandin54 5spdvl - your alright! is it hard to get to the bolts on the turbo (that bolt it to the mani.)?? Not really, just use an open ended spanner (like a combination spanner) to d up the nuts, then use an offset ring spanner to tighten them. If you look at the picture of the turbo and manifold that CJW has posted, you'll see that he has used allen key bolts to secure his turbo to the manifold - unless you have allen key fittings for a ratchet, they would be a pain in the arse to do up (sorry CJW, I hate allen keys!). I would personally stick to the factory nut and stud method.

i did it over a weekend, but i pulled the motor out cause it had to bee replaced so all the manifolds were much much easier, had to swap the box over as well. Might be worth considering if you have the tools. Doesnt take that long.

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl If you look at the picture of the turbo and manifold that CJW has posted, you'll see that he has used allen key bolts to secure his turbo to the manifold - unless you have allen key fittings for a ratchet, they would be a pain in the arse to do up (sorry CJW, I hate allen keys!). I would personally stick to the factory nut and stud method. Yeah I would tend to agree with you. It's probably easier using the stud/nut method and you have more options regarding retainment (castellated nuts etc). I'm just a big fan of cap screws so that's why I used them (I also wire tied them for retainment).

Not really sure what you mean there CJW? Cap screws? And you wire tied them?

Cap screws, or socket head cap screws, another name for bolts with allen key heads. Wire Tied Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Wow, thats very interesting. I've never seen that before. Good idea though; works in the place of castleated nuts with a split pin (like tie rod ends), or nuts with nylon thread at one end (like bearing plate retaining nuts). Very cool. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

what does wire tying achieve? is it mean to tighten the otherone at the same time or whats the go?

Quote: Originally Posted by patch what does wire tying achieve? is it mean to tighten the otherone at the same time or whats the go? Ive never seen this before, but from having a close look it appears that if one was to come loose it would apply tightening force on the opposite bolt wich would tighten and in turn stop the other loosing off due to it not being able to turn any further ? Makes sense in my head anyway Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

It just stops either bolts from coming undone due to vibration, much like a castleated nut and split pin setup.

It's a fairly common thing in track cars etc, particularly open wheelers. A bit fiddly but highly effective.

ahhh i see how it works now. nice trick i like

we use them everywhere on aircraft

Quote: Originally Posted by JET-086 Hardest part is bolting the turbo manifold on the head. How is that the hardest part , The manifolds are easy to take on n off. Hardest part would be removing the dump pipe bolts if they havn't been off in yrs they snap in the turbo rear housing. Nice clip idear, Simple but effective Some original photos have not been recovered yet.