The 6 spd needs a shifter relocation to fit through the floor as the box is around 150mm longer than an MX7. Pacemaker I believe have the headers almost available off the shelf now for around $1000. Wiring loom and ECU are available already modified to plug into the vk/vl. The tunnel in the vl is not big enough and a mate that has done the conversion ended up cutting a tunnel out of a VK and swapping it into the VL.

yeah ok mad thanks for the feedback, nah i havent got the bellhousing yet not sure as to where to get it from im guessing from the rod shop i have everything but the bellhousing hey do you know where to get the wirring kit from? yeah with the tunnel ill see when i get the motor and box as to what im goin to do whether ill try bash it out or cut it and replace it does anyone amke the shifter relocation? i did think about that too thought it would fit but yeah guess ill have to buy a custom one....

All from CRS. The shifter we are trying to find a solution too atm. Its a far easier conversion with an auto!

yeah mad is it really? i was thinkin if i went auoto put a stally in it what ya think? if you put an auto in would you still need to convert the starter motor? by the is that your car in the pic the red calais? i love it man it was in a mag hey?

Bro, if you put in a Hi Stall then make it ATLEAST 4000rpm plus. I was going to put in a 4100rpm stall but was talked out of it and told that it's not streetable enough, so I went back to a 3600rpm. I intend on swapping this over to a bigger item in the future but as I don't feel it is big enough for my liking. You commonly read about people using 4000rpm plus stalls in street cars. I know in mine with the 3600rpm stall I still get anywhere between high 11's to low 13L/100km which is good fuel usage around town. This is with 3.9 diff gears aswell, as opposed to the 3.46 I had in it up until a fortnight ago. Before the 3.9's and stall went in I used to get high 10's to mid 11L/100km, so it hasn't made that much of a difference. Jason.

yeah ok mad so if your cruisin around town with a say 4000 stally, say your at an intersection your stopped then you accelerate as normal does it not start driving till 4000rpm? ive always woundered that im guessing thats how it goes but how is it to drive? i reckon it'd be F@#$ing sik do you get those quarter mile times N/A ? cheers mate Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I wasn't talking about quarter mile times mate, I was talking about fuel usage. However many L to 100km. It will take off before 4000rpm. My car starts to move before 1500rpm. I don't know to much about stalls but get one that is suited to the street and has lock up. Mine will be quite soft around town but is really quite aggresive when I want it to be. If I try to lay tread, it will do it easy. I have a mate with a VLT who has a 3000rpm stall and it's not really that aggresive, it's more suited to the street. But then again my brother has a 2800rpm stall in his VLCT and it basically does not take off until 2800rpm, so it will lay tread awesome for what it is! Depends what you choose! Jason.

Mal wood does a nicer starter relocation kit than castle auto, extractors from CAE and GM motorsport do a ripshifter that puts your gearstick in the correct position.

AQUABAT thanks for the info mate, my cars gonna be a street driving car but not everyday just cruisin and take it away for runs on the track just for fun though not tryin to break any records lol yeah i reckon a stall converter would be sik im pretty keen for that if i dont go manual HOTBOX thanks budy do you know there internet site's? cheers fella's

stall converters is like another can of worms, plenty of different variables in choosing what you want and how you want it set up. Stall speed should be chosen after ALL mods are done so it can suit the specs of the cam, diff ratio, car weight etc etc etc. You can have a looser stall built that will "flash" to the RPM of the converter quicker which might be a bit of a prick to drive with or you can get a tighter one made that will still flash to the RPM of the converter except it will need more throttle. Driving with a high stall isnt too much different compared to a standard one, it will behave the exact same way except use more of the motors RPM to get along. Just roughly, say you have a 2500 stall and take off lightly the car will accelerate while the revs sit on about 1800 - 2000. Say you hit the brake and throttle the car will stall up to 2500 tops (imagine you dont break traction). Now say you have a 3500 stall and accelerate lightly, the car will accelerate the same way with a lower RPM converter accept revs will sit on say 2000-2500. Hit the brake and throttle the car will stall up to 3500 tops. Now we all know that most motors produce more power as revs increase so since you have a higher RPM to launch with you can utilise more power from the engine to launch off the line. The "tightness" or "looseness" of the converter can be built according to how you want but generally you want a tighter one so you dont loose drivabillity and avoid wringing the motor out just to move anywhere. Also a top notch trans cooler must be used with a high stall since the hydraulic slipping between the motor and trans increases trans fluid temp by a great deal. This is just a rough explanation but you get the idea

mate that info was exactly what i needee i appreciate it sounds pretty NKUF mad i suppose i gotta have a hard think about what im gonna choose now (auto or manual) by the way heres some progress pics they aren't exciting at all but yeah heres some got the v8 cross member, steering wrack, suspension and brakes in the other day just a pic to show the crap shed i gotta work in lol shows dedication pic of when i started workin on it just a pic of part of the conversion for the LS1 Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

dont put an auto in. LS engines are much more suited to a manual

well to tell you the truth i love the manual man love the drive ability and the feel of goin through the gears hopfully everything goes to plan and can find a way so the manual gearstick can fit where its ment to without the rear passanger changing gears for me lol jokes Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i must have been talking to myself when i wrote gm motorsport make a shifter to suit T56 into VLs Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

lol na i think i did read that sorry dont think straight when i come home from work ill do a search on there site cheers mate appreciate it

Good luck with the conversion my mechanic has just finshed this conversion on a customers car the engine bay looks sweet as with ls1 looks very nice in there. if you plan to keep your aircon you'll have to relocate it as the pulley will hit your right hand side rail.and throw your battery in the boot.... good luck.

sure that kit on ebay for sale,Are you still going through with it??

hey mate thats sik wish i could speak to the mechanic lol yeah for sure still goin through with it the miss's spat the dummy a bit lol got a baby on the way she was just sayin how we needed a car seat n **** so i went and bought one with me own money she was like.....oh sweet haha was pretty funny i took it of ebay for it to never be on there again lol lucky no-one bidded on it think i still gotta buy the two enginge mounts that will connect to my cross member i got the other ones but yeah i hope there just the standard say vn v8 ones i need ill find out im shattered theres a gen 3 on ebay for $1000 loom and everything ends in 8 hours NNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO lol i wanted it anyway if ya can gets pics of that vl man that would be sik Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Good to see your still going through with it then..Would'nt mine doing it to mine..

fark yeah i would love to see heaps more vl's with this conversion i do like the turbo'd vl's but ls1's in the vl is a dream Some original photos have not been recovered yet.