^ Who made your oil pan? BTW, Argo FTW. lol

If your going to run the DOHC pump run a crank collar and be done with it. Nissan rectified the 'issue' with the R33 Rb25DET and late R32 GTR's by using a larger crank engagement. Without knowing exactly why it breaks my guess is the reason it strips is because the gear first breaks, jams and then strips. The gear breaks due to uneven loading that results in wear. or just stick with the RB30ET pump; maybe shim it up slightly if your worried. If it aint broke don't fix it. If you do go for a DOHC pump, especially the N1 or Jun pump don't forget to restrict the oil feeds for the head. With the hydraulic/lifter head I went with the blocked rear feed 1.5mm up front. I was a little skeptical of SK's ramblings but it has worked flawlessly. 'Apparently' running 2 x 1.1's flows less than a single 1.5 due to surface friction area or something. Either way a single 1.5mm is sweet. With the jun pump I believe SK recommends the 1.1-1.2mm single restrictor. The catch can is now dry and no longer dumps oil in the head when rev's are held over 5500rpm for an extended period of time. There's still plenty of oil floating around in the head; no lifter tick etc. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

so are u saying aslong as u get a crank collar and a new N1 pump its not an issue? by new N1 pump i mean "newer version", not an R32 version??

Ah ha, I can see the failure mechanism is the shorter flat on the crank engaging with a larger flat on the gear, thus lots of flat to flat pressure in a fairly small area, this would put considerable stress on the pump main gear and given the material looks fairly hard and possible brittle would shatter the gear, the collar might well distribute this load but I can see the value of getting the MIG out and depositing more material on the crank then filing it down to be as close as possible to the existing flat. Then maybe use a collar/shim between them to take up the slack... mmmm, Have to take a closer look at this,

The collars are a pretty damn tight fit to the oil pump so there's no need to shim up etc. To fit the collar you machine the crank a little press the collar on then fit the grub screw. -- Genki, The N1 pump isn't new so to speak its just the N1 pump. Higher flowing and higher pressure. -- In saying all that I built mine up a good 3-4+years ago when the jun collars were 600+ fitting and there was no aftermarket items available. I took my chances as I simply could not push any more $$ in to the build. I had the motor built without a collar; I used a rb25det pump that looked new, no wear. So far 70,000km's later its been good. Rev limit of 7000rpm and I do try to keep it off the limiter all though in the heat of the moment in second gear it often taps against it. Its got to the point now where if it lets go it lets go; I've got a good 70,000km's out of the motor of which I am happy with. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

mmm, ok, where does one get these collars ?

You can a jun collar from nengun or greenline. Im getting my motor built at duggins and they are making there own i think?

i spoke to my workshop today, they in theory should know there sh*t they made UD_LOSE's rb28 enuf said, and they havent had anyone complain to them about an N1 pump failure, and they should be good for around 700-750hp at the flywheel. all i know is, they got a collar for it and they are doing machine work accordingly to the crank.. so i dno :/ but can i risk my motor its literally cost me 10grand just for the motor (head and bottom end work) and i havent even got porting done on the 26head!!, as theres no need haha fk'n hell i hate cars so much now. cubes, i thought the N1 pump flowed the same amount as a GTR pump, oh well :P Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ben don`t take any notice to what you read on the net most people just repeat what they have heard so before long theres 1 milion people saying one thing when probably only 10% actually used that such item, you have top notch people doing your motor the n1 pump is fine with the crank collar relax lol Quote: Anyone know who sells these crank collars and anyone have a pic of one ? here is what the collar looks like http://www.slidingperformance.com/ca...roducts_id=305 (http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=51_112&products_id=305)

Neato, thanks for that, doesnt look like much though for the price Gosh I need a lathe <sigh> Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

rev's kill rb oil pumps, not hp/kw. I bought a jun oil pump for my drag car but i have expectations that it will grenade on me at 11000 rpm. If this happens a two stage dry sump is next. I know the both the tomei and jun can hold up to 10500 rpm. biggest concern is cavitation. The N1 pump does not flow anymore then a standard gtr pump, it merely has a higher pressure spring.

Quote: Originally Posted by holdonv8 ben don`t take any notice to what you read on the net most people just repeat what they have heard so before long theres 1 milion people saying one thing when probably only 10% actually used that such item, you have top notch people doing your motor the n1 pump is fine with the crank collar relax lol here is what the collar looks like http://www.slidingperformance.com/ca...roducts_id=305 (http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=51_112&products_id=305) yeah thats true... lol statistics i forgot about that haha but quite a few ppl on SAU did have problems, and one guy even had 2 fail on him.. oh well, i spoke to shane and applied auto today and they dont see any problem with an N1 pump, and applied have had guys making good power and no1 has complained yet, so yeh.

on the other thread on this section related to this, it appears the crank flats on the VL/VLT dont sit central with the position of the flats on the N1, so this makes a heap of sense as to the N1 failure mechanism, ie Way too much lateral loads causing gear binding at one extreme edge and yeah this will be far worse on higher revs, vlmagnum suggested maching the N1 or maybe the block a little so it fits central more or less, I will take a peek later on and see if the crank flats are big enough either way, The N1 pump does look rather more beefy than the VLT, so I'm happy to discount the various propoganda about it being unreliable and appreciate its mounting on the VLT crank would be the major issue...! thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by [200] ^ Who made your oil pan? BTW, Argo FTW. lol had a mate do me a full alley 1 y is that if ur gona use the pump no 1 get the crank built up dont use a shTTy collar no2 make sure u put a bung in the sump directly below the bypass bolt so u can play with the spring and adjust the pressure properly if u dont reguardless of wat other people say you will have pump failure l'm talking 1st hand experience with the pump it neally cost me a bottom end wen my brand new n1 failed and like always u always find out more imfo wen u *** something if u want more imfo call me my ph no all ct hense is y ,l am now dry sump no oil pressure problems or drainage probs no more .oh and l did have my crank built up .enzo has broken 2 pumps

Hmm, thanks for the good response guys, I think I will go with the jun pump, should be reliable enough as it's a 26/30 and it won't be revving past 8,000rpm

definately jun pump unless your go external oil pump but there another 2k on top of what a jun pump is

Quote: Originally Posted by KIL-351 definately jun pump unless your go external oil pump but there another 2k on top of what a jun pump is 1000 for an external 1200 max, can get good 1s for like $650 new +2 lines and fittings bracket and gears and a belt

I am doing a dry sump myself now. Looking at sites on the net over in the states, a 3 stage peterson 'bearclaw' pump is around $910 AUD. Delivery is expensive but still worth while. I was going to use a 4 stage and have a pickup from the back of the head but its not really needed. I ordered an oil pan for $600 that has 2 pick up points. So I need an oil cooler, filter, oil tank and breather... + probably $1,000 in lines and fittings. lol

Quote: Originally Posted by 7FOUR7 Hmm, thanks for the good response guys, I think I will go with the jun pump, should be reliable enough as it's a 26/30 and it won't be revving past 8,000rpm oi also brad! apparently u can get a JUN pump for less than $900 off some guys that order gear from japan called "greenline" http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue.php its amazing how cheap some sh*t is when u convert it, and shipping costs shouldnt be too bad. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by [200] I am doing a dry sump myself now. Looking at sites on the net over in the states, a 3 stage peterson 'bearclaw' pump is around $910 AUD. Delivery is expensive but still worth while. I was going to use a 4 stage and have a pickup from the back of the head but its not really needed. I ordered an oil pan for $600 that has 2 pick up points. So I need an oil cooler, filter, oil tank and breather... + probably $1,000 in lines and fittings. lol l got a bloke in the us that has a few pumps for sale a stage 6 weiss and a stage 5 peterson he sells top second hand pumps from nascars