Quote: Originally Posted by vlthunter if the car is auto, how do you load it up in a high gear without it dropping back a gear and even if it were a full manual auto wouldnt it fry the frictions? I take off in 2nd gear in the auto, it wont shift to first, makes a nice spooolup sound sometimes Puts a bit of load on the torque convertor though, worth getting a cooler if doing that a lot, Quote: Originally Posted by duz360 i agree. boost raises the combustion pressure in the cylinder. its that very pressure that forces the rings into the bores bedding them in. Slight problem with that theory... Rings dont put more tangential pressure on bores during higher combustion pressure though they do put more pressure on piston grooves, if anything the higher pressure results in more blowby meaning less tangential pressure and if it pings during that time you wont get even cylinder wall wear. Also higher combustion pressures result in less boundary layer which might just glaze a few spots. All the stuff I've come across on new cars with turbos suggest to drive normally and when cruising for more than 30mins at same speed change gears so engine speed is not static for long periods. With modern engines shouldnt need to do this for more than 1000 Kms or so... If it was mine, I'd also retorque the head bolts after the 1000kms... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by STONE RACING on a turbo car? if they told you that they are rong.... dont boost on a new engine the bores may glaze up and vent like a mofo run rich on a new engine same thing will happen Turbo motors are the same as N/A motors, so running in a Turbo is the same as running in a N/A. Have a good read of what Niche said, it's spot on. Bossting will just create more blowby

rofl ok cheech this is straight from the main man have a read bite your tongue and learn something 300+ engines.... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Quote: Originally Posted by Niche I take off in 2nd gear in the auto, it wont shift to first, makes a nice spooolup sound sometimes Puts a bit of load on the torque convertor though, worth getting a cooler if doing that a lot, Slight problem with that theory... Rings dont put more tangential pressure on bores during higher combustion pressure though they do put more pressure on piston grooves, if anything the higher pressure results in more blowby meaning less tangential pressure and if it pings during that time you wont get even cylinder wall wear. Also higher combustion pressures result in less boundary layer which might just glaze a few spots. All the stuff I've come across on new cars with turbos suggest to drive normally and when cruising for more than 30mins at same speed change gears so engine speed is not static for long periods. With modern engines shouldnt need to do this for more than 1000 Kms or so... If it was mine, I'd also retorque the head bolts after the 1000kms... rings are designed to have more force pushing against the cylendar walls with more combustion pressure click the link theres alot of good info there Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by STONE RACING rofl ok cheech this is straight from the main man have a read bite your tongue and learn something 300+ engines.... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm rings are designed to have more force pushing against the cylendar walls with more combustion pressure click the link theres alot of good info there er no, seems this guy doesnt know about his statics vs his dynamics ! He has not bothered to make a simple calculation of the area of the gap between the top ring and the piston and the pressure/flow this could result in on the inside of the ring where it separates from the piston groove, because this is the part he is totally relying upon to say static things like:- "...and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall" when its a dynamic process and not subject to his logic. In any case one would consider there is a film of oil in that gap that has huge surface tension in relation to its thickness If even part of what he suggested were true, in respect of ring pressure, then the higher pressure you have in the combustion chamber then the lower blowby we would get. Since it is observed blowby goes up quite dramatically then he just aint aint right. Also I might add that revving an engine fast before its run in will tend to make the rings skip over irregularilties from the honing process resulting in potential for glazing bores, granted this wont be a major issue for long but it does suggest you dont want to rev an engine much beyond its normal drive/cruise rpms when running in so that later on when you do rev it to b..ggery it las much less chance of having motion perpendicular to the central axis. Some of what he says is true but he has extrapolated linearly from a static scenario when it is in fact highly dynamic and much anticipated response just doesnt arise. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

dude you are seriously miss informed i suggest you read up on it there is alot of info out there all lead to the same answers what your typing is guestimation not fact...

mate, there are lots of things on the net - you can always find contrary opinions that are there if you look hard enough but, apply some thinking to the issue. What he is saying is that the higher the pressure the better the seal. I'm sure the thousands of hydraulic engineers would be impressed with that. So you are then also of the view that higher boost pressure results in less blowby if his theory of better sealing is correct, well then can you hazard a guess as to what actually happens ? This seems to prove pretty conclusively that you dont get better sealing and that the blowby occurs between the ring and the bore - the obvious consequence of that is less chance for the ring to bed into the bore the higher the boost pressure... Cheers

your just guessing again man talk to some one into the racing scene speedway builder or something youll find that thread very spot on after that Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Mike your posts are to long and im to tired to imput into this thread........

Well, first we are not talking racing engines which have specialised ring geometries or much greater care than the average mechanics job on a VL... Second, you might want to be aware that at the thin gaps of microns between the top of the ring and piston groove - any gas acts as an incompressible fluid and there will be almost *no* flow, its basic fluid mechanics, even less because there is a fluid film or oil, petrol and carbon soot etc The other thing to appreciate is the piston ring doesnt have an infinite spring response, it takes time for it to respond and if the engine is doing high revs there is far less time for it to maintain even pressure outwards across the cylinder walls. Like driving over ruts in the road, do you really expect that the faster you go the more even you will make the ruts, fact is you wont feel so many because the car glides or skips over them, its basic high school physics... There is a heap of propoganda with lots of anecdotal stories where there is no tracable experimental evidence or even repeatable procedure. I stand by my observations from engineering experience, I would suggest you speak to anyone who runs higher boost and ask them if there is more or less blowby as a starting point. Cheers, thats it for me on this thread, I invite you to have the last word... Quote: Originally Posted by PRO-BT1 Mike your posts are to long and im to tired to imput into this thread........ I stopped having the runs at the other end so am compensating for it from the top end Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

of course any one running 50 psi is goin to have more blow by then one running 10 but the engine running 50 will be better seald then one running 10! thats the fact more combustion pressure the better the ring seal unless rings are damaged bores glazed ect ect.........