Ok, well the cd player is a newish one what could have been put in after he had removed the amp. Possible that the owner or whoever installed it didn't wire up the remote wire etc? But surely when the 12v is connected and its earthed the power light on the amp should still come on?

the power shouldnt be on. the remote wire is the remote turn on wire, so it is in theory a switch. did u wire up your system yourself? or was it meant to be all wired up?

Nope bought the car like is. Already had amp wiring installed and I though I may as well put my sub and amp in. I guess they never bothered wiring it up to the new cd player. Thanks for your help patchy.

hope it all helped. theres a wiring diagram as a sticky which may help. does the cd player work? or is none of it wired up? its quite easy to do it all yourself i've done it in my hj and also the vl and had no troubles, i just read up about it and its easy.

yeah the cd player works like it should, I just don't think they wired some things up what weren't in use to them eg. They had sub and amp and then decided to remove them. Then they upgraded to a newer cd player and since they where no longer using an amp they didn't bother wiring the leads up to the new cd player... Thats what I'm thinking anyway... Ill check it out when I have time Cheers.

fair enough. keep me posted on how it all goes. if your in need of a sub or amp i can sell u one

iv got xplod 6 inch splits in the front in pods xplod 450w in custom parcel shelf and a jbl 1000w sub in the boot. the boot rattle is relitivly simple to fix if you dont mind being a tight arse.. just get a screwdriver and some foam.. push the foam between the boot skin and the reinforcment of the boot it spaces it apart without bending anything and it moves with the boot elimenating rattle. another tip also is to get a few bigger bits of foam and jam them in the holes behind the plastic moulding inside your boot (to stop garnish rattle) done this in my vl. works a treat

Hey guys as expected the wires are not plugged in. There is already a wire connected to the rem wire as you can see in the picture? Is this the correct wire. It is connected to a white wire? Should I just disconnect it and connect the amp rem wire to it? And also what sockets to the other 2 amp wires connect to as there are 4 sockets on the back of this cd player? Left or right? Cheers Guys... waiting for a reply as I don't want to do something stupid Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

hey with your rem, just make sure it is connected to the rem wire, look up the wiring diagram its a sticky in the audio section if you have trouble and for your rca's you can pick either side, it wont matter, your lucky you have 2 preouts, i only have 1 so i had to buy splitters. hope this helps

Cheers. Ill give it a go tomorrow. Ill let you know how it goes. Amp and sub are now working thanks for all your help patch, I really appreciate it.

Quote: Originally Posted by NOM4D iv got xplod 6 inch splits in the front in pods xplod 450w in custom parcel shelf and a jbl 1000w sub in the boot. the boot rattle is relitivly simple to fix if you dont mind being a tight arse.. just get a screwdriver and some foam.. push the foam between the boot skin and the reinforcment of the boot it spaces it apart without bending anything and it moves with the boot elimenating rattle. another tip also is to get a few bigger bits of foam and jam them in the holes behind the plastic moulding inside your boot (to stop garnish rattle) done this in my vl. works a treat exactly the way to do it! i did this in my VK and put some in around the boot lock 9between metal surfaces that had a gap small enough to vibrate) and put a layer of silicone on the back of the tailights when they were off the car (again the bit between surfaces that would vibrate) and foam between mounts on the bumpers... if u take ur time its not too difficult to get rid of every single rattle! the only rattles i had left were coming from under the car lol i had 1 12s and a 15" in the boot too, so was a bit of bass...

i was wondering....doesnt those sound deadner sheets do the same job?? misk and NOM4D u both have good ideas in putting foam/silicone up there, but which type of deadner would be more effective for rattling? cos im thinking of gettin sound deadner sheets 4 my vl but if the foam is betta, i may aswell go with that. any suggestions??

ok polyurathane put that on the rails of ya bootmake it a good job and that stops the rattling of the boot lid. a piece of foam from clark rubber or some place that sells foam and put that in the garnish inbetween garnish and the 2 rails that bolt to the car and screw to the garnish by then all that rattles should be the bumperbar moulds rear top one just find somthing descet to keep them tight them should be stuff all rattles i own 2 type R 12" subs now the Spring on my boot broke from the bass easy fix is buy Vx boot struts and mount in with the ball joints from a wagon

wat about soundener sheets, are they any good?

There VERY Good, Yet VERY Expensive. . . Im sure theres stuff called DynaMat, mate done his boot with it, ended up costing a fortune, however did sound a hell of alot better.

Quote: Originally Posted by GLDNVL There VERY Good, Yet VERY Expensive. . . Im sure theres stuff called DynaMat, mate done his boot with it, ended up costing a fortune, however did sound a hell of alot better. thanks 4 ur input gldnvl roughly how much did it cost ur mate to dynamat his boot?? cos im prepared to pay a bit. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by aidan009 thanks 4 ur input gldnvl roughly how much did it cost ur mate to dynamat his boot?? cos im prepared to pay a bit. I think he payed around the $400 mark to do his boot. I'd have to ask him to get the exact amount but yeah, quite sure $400. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.