someone get one working and wack some big injectors in ur vl and boost it if it all works 100% this will be a huge revolution in modding cars.

what sorta power incress could u expect from doing this? With standard injectors?

Luke - he's still around, he's on my msn. As far as i know, the car is completely stock bar the imobiliser and the VN rims, but Tim definately didn't have a cooler on it (i know this cos he was going to buy mine) Aside that man, that's pretty much all i know.

you need a wideband o2 sensor to tune.. stock narrow band is uselesss

Quote: Originally Posted by XTC16 Luke - he's still around, he's on my msn. As far as i know, the car is completely stock bar the imobiliser and the VN rims, but Tim definately didn't have a cooler on it (i know this cos he was going to buy mine) Aside that man, that's pretty much all i know. cheers man thats what i remember him saying just looks like at one stage the x pipe had been taked off. anyway could i grab his msn would like to chat 2 him bout his new calais aparently its got 180rwkw just wondering what had been done 2 it. Since i have bought his VLT i have put a 3 inch exsort on it and have had the dump pipe bored out to 3 inch... i have ordered a big front mount cooler kit that u can see pics of it here http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=78364on and hopfully with this fuel managment kit i will safly be able to wind the boost up to the maxium my standard fuel system will let me. o and have a high flowed t03/ t04 off a matts smashed calais here after i do the fuel system. im hopeing with stanard turbo to make at least 170 rwkw what do u recon?? Does any one know what size the standard VLT injectors are? or whats there rating? Quote: Originally Posted by tarmac- you need a wideband o2 sensor to tune.. stock narrow band is uselesss What do u mean by that cant i hook a o2 metre to the standard o2 senser?? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nah, you can't use the standard o2 sensor, it is really sensative around an afr of 14.7;1, and not at all around the 12:1 or whatever you want to tune it to under power. though you can tune on the fyl i'd still recomend using a dyno. and i don't think you'l ba able to push the stock fuel system much further. Oh, you's probably unplug the standard o2 sensor as well if you were retuning for bigger injectors. The guy's who devoloped this are really on the ball, i'm really considering using one to trick my ecu into running some bigger injectors, you can also use it to run a larger afm. i think they can modify the 5v output +-2.5v's so they are pretty flexible. it's another way to make cheap power, and maintain ALL of the bonus's of a stock ecu.

best to get stock ecu retuned.. unsure if on a AFM setup they advance timing by decreasing fuel n vice versa, but on a MAP sensor car they do which isnt good.

Stock vlt injectors are 270cc.

Quote: Originally Posted by 2filthy3 nah, you can't use the standard o2 sensor, it is really sensative around an afr of 14.7;1, and not at all around the 12:1 or whatever you want to tune it to under power. though you can tune on the fyl i'd still recomend using a dyno. and i don't think you'l ba able to push the stock fuel system much further. Oh, you's probably unplug the standard o2 sensor as well if you were retuning for bigger injectors. The guy's who devoloped this are really on the ball, i'm really considering using one to trick my ecu into running some bigger injectors, you can also use it to run a larger afm. i think they can modify the 5v output +-2.5v's so they are pretty flexible. it's another way to make cheap power, and maintain ALL of the bonus's of a stock ecu. What psi u recon a standard fuel system can handle 12psi??? wont the computer retard timeing by 5 degrees if u unplug 02 senser ? What 02 senser could u use and does it matter where in the exsost u put it? Quote: Originally Posted by zmatt Stock vlt injectors are 270cc. Cheers ZMatt Quote: Originally Posted by tarmac- best to get stock ecu retuned.. unsure if on a AFM setup they advance timing by decreasing fuel n vice versa, but on a MAP sensor car they do which isnt good. How do u go bout geting a stock ecu re-tuned?? didnt know u could other then geting one of those power chips installed What did u mean by the second bit? Quote: Originally Posted by tarmac- unsure if on a AFM setup they advance timing by decreasing fuel n vice versa, but on a MAP sensor car they do which isnt good. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

id upgrade the fuel pump. your engine runs a air flow meter.. some engines run a map sensor, -manifold absolute pressure.. what ever voltage the MAP sensor senses sent to the ecu, and corresponds to a certain part of the fuel map..when you decrease the voltage on a map sensor, it moves back in the fuel map, and with less load on the engine it has more timing... so basically, @ 3volts, the ecu is programmed for for 23 degrees of timing and to give 60% duty cycle (injectors), and at 4.2 volts it gives 15 degrees and 8-% duty cycle... then you put larger injectors in, and to make the fueling as it was with the standard injectors, you decrease 20% on the unit... decreasing 20% will lower the fuel by giving less voltage, and seeing as the ecu thinks its at a lower voltage, it gives more timing. more timing = bad on boost... timing causing detonation - blown headgaskets, burn your pistons, even throw it out the block. if doing this on a AFM does the same thing, then it aint good, but i have a feeling it doesnt.. you need to find someone who can hook their laptop up to the ecu and retne that way.. ive got all the gear and do it quite often, but am in New Zealand. hope that helps

Quote: Originally Posted by tarmac- id upgrade the fuel pump. your engine runs a air flow meter.. some engines run a map sensor, -manifold absolute pressure.. what ever voltage the MAP sensor senses sent to the ecu, and corresponds to a certain part of the fuel map..when you decrease the voltage on a map sensor, it moves back in the fuel map, and with less load on the engine it has more timing... so basically, @ 3volts, the ecu is programmed for for 23 degrees of timing and to give 60% duty cycle (injectors), and at 4.2 volts it gives 15 degrees and 8-% duty cycle... then you put larger injectors in, and to make the fueling as it was with the standard injectors, you decrease 20% on the unit... decreasing 20% will lower the fuel by giving less voltage, and seeing as the ecu thinks its at a lower voltage, it gives more timing. more timing = bad on boost... timing causing detonation - blown headgaskets, burn your pistons, even throw it out the block. if doing this on a AFM does the same thing, then it aint good, but i have a feeling it doesnt.. you need to find someone who can hook their laptop up to the ecu and retne that way.. ive got all the gear and do it quite often, but am in New Zealand. hope that helps Thanks mate For the info i get what u mean if it had a map senser. I have a lap top what other gear and software do u need to hook up 2 it? would love 2 learn... i know my way around computers very well also what sorta Power loss can i expect through a manual? If standard injectors are 270cc then thats bout 54 HP at 100% duty cycle with 43 psi of fuel presure per injector times that by 6 and u have 324 HP at the flywheel? is that true If so wouldnt that mean the standard ecu doesnt ever reach 100% duty cycle is that true? sorry for sounding like a dumb ass

the standard ecu would have to take them close to 100%, if your are not going to upgrade the injectors you don't need to do that, just wack it on 12psi maybe 13. not sure if unplugging the o2 sensor will retard the ignition on a vl, i know it does safety things on other cars. no one is claiming this is an alternative to a tand alone ecu, but it could be a cheap way of cleaning up afr's over the board. and systems like this have been used for a long time, and to succes to to tune cars to run bigger injectors and afm's. yeah it's a bit dodgy but i don't think anyone here is going to try and make 312rwkw's with it. If you keep the injectors within 40% of standard i think this system could make you a cheap 230rwkw's. maybe retard the timing a bit. it's the same as those apexi safc2 and things like it, but its better. Tarmac are those actuall values? (timing in relation to duty cycle) this was the main thing i was wondering about, as in the problems this setup has.

Quote: Originally Posted by 2filthy3 the standard ecu would have to take them close to 100%, if your are not going to upgrade the injectors you don't need to do that, just wack it on 12psi maybe 13. not sure if unplugging the o2 sensor will retard the ignition on a vl, i know it does safety things on other cars. no one is claiming this is an alternative to a tand alone ecu, but it could be a cheap way of cleaning up afr's over the board. and systems like this have been used for a long time, and to succes to to tune cars to run bigger injectors and afm's. yeah it's a bit dodgy but i don't think anyone here is going to try and make 312rwkw's with it. If you keep the injectors within 40% of standard i think this system could make you a cheap 230rwkw's. maybe retard the timing a bit. it's the same as those apexi safc2 and things like it, but its better. Tarmac are those actuall values? (timing in relation to duty cycle) this was the main thing i was wondering about, as in the problems this setup has. I think those values where for a map senser situation. So what u are saying is that on 12 psi the standard injecters would be at 100% duty cycle? that would have to mean that it would be making 324 HP at the fly wheel ??? cos thats what the standard injeectors can flow right?? Also what did u mean about keeping duty cycle within 40 % of standard? What if i upgraded fuel pump to bosh 044 and maybe gtr injectors i think there 440cc or 88HP each ?

i just made em numbers up just to explain. you cant just change your car to a map sensor without going to great trouble. yeh im not saying that theyre not good, ive used a safc before on a 4agte engine in a toyota, went from 375cc injectors to 450cc and worked fine. safer than running extra injectors anyway, espicially with how nissan has designed the intake manifold. as for tuning on your laptop, you need to buy some pritty expensive gear; wideband o2 sensor, emulator so you can tune real time, some sort of unit which can datalogg the voltage of your Air flow meter vs Revs vs Air/fuel. if your going for all out power, then you really need a dyno to dial in the timing at WOT.

u guys might wanna cheak out these kits to that go are controlled by the hand controller Digital Pulse Adjuster Ref: High Performance Electronic Projects for Cars - Silicon Chip Publications. This unit is another huge step up in DIY automotive performance upgrades. It allows you to control and tune the operation of any solenoid that is run by the engine management system. This means that you could control turbo boost without an expensive boost controller, or alter automatic transmission line pressures for better shifts. Alternatively, it can be used to drive and control an extra fuel injector. Additional fuel injectors are commonly tapped into the throttle body to stop critical lean out under high load, high boost conditions. You can now add the injector with +/- 127 step mapping at 128 different duty cycle points. This allows superior fuel control, previously achieved only with an expensive fuel management system. Kit supplied with PCB, machined case, and all electronic components. Kit requires the Handheld Digital Controller - KC-5386. and this Independent Electronic Boost Controller Ref: High Performance Electronic Projects for Cars - Silicon Chip Publications. Absolutely superb control over your turbo boost curve. It can be used in cars fitted with factory electronic boost control using the factory control solenoid, or cars without electronic boost control using a solenoid from a wrecker etc. It actually has two different completely programmable boost curves. This is ideal for switching between say, a race / street mode, or a performance / wet weather mode. Each boost map has 64 points able to be adjusted in 1% duty cycle increments. Boost curve selection is via a dashboard switch, and it is all programmed using the Handheld Digital Controller - KC-5386. Kit supplied with PCB, machined case, and all electronic components. * Suitable for EFI and engine management systems only. Quote: Originally Posted by tarmac- i just made em numbers up just to explain. you cant just change your car to a map sensor without going to great trouble. yeh im not saying that theyre not good, ive used a safc before on a 4agte engine in a toyota, went from 375cc injectors to 450cc and worked fine. safer than running extra injectors anyway, espicially with how nissan has designed the intake manifold. as for tuning on your laptop, you need to buy some pritty expensive gear; wideband o2 sensor, emulator so you can tune real time, some sort of unit which can datalogg the voltage of your Air flow meter vs Revs vs Air/fuel. if your going for all out power, then you really need a dyno to dial in the timing at WOT. what sorta gear u got? What sorta unit do u use? and would u send me the emulator software??? I dont understand y u cant just plug jaycars o2 metre to the standard o2 senser on the rb30et i asked jaycar and they said it should work?? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

what do we want the digital puls adjuster for? i don't think that 12psi would have the injectors at %100dc, guessing it would be close at around 14? but you don't want to actually hit 100, you wanna leave a bit in it for a spike or a really cold night or something. i meant to say if you use this setup that you probably wouldn't want to use injectors that were more than %40 bigger than 270, %50 might work, i don't know, just the more you sretch it the more your timing will be out. like i said i'd probably try 380cc or something. you can get wideband o2 sensor setups for around $600. if you want more from the standard injectors you need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. a fresh standard fuel pump is enough for this, or a 984, an 044 is over kill

because stock o2 sensors only have the ability of reading 0-1 volt, which is low resolution... wideband o2 has 0-5. i use an emulator called an ostrich. comes with data logging software.. and use a program called livedit. takes ages to get your head around it tho, can be quite complex. those other units look good as.

Quote: Originally Posted by tarmac- because stock o2 sensors only have the ability of reading 0-1 volt, which is low resolution... wideband o2 has 0-5. i use an emulator called an ostrich. comes with data logging software.. and use a program called livedit. takes ages to get your head around it tho, can be quite complex. those other units look good as. I dont see y u cant use standard o2 senser i did a search and found this post http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...ghlight=senser (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=78939&highlight=senser) what if i used a later model o2 senser from a skyline or something similar? If u could send me the software or tell me where to download it from would be grate [email removed] Quote: Originally Posted by 2filthy3- if you want more from the standard injectors you need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. a fresh standard fuel pump is enough for this, or a 984, an 044 is over kill. what would i find 380cc injectors to fit the vl in?? Also if i was to upgrade fuel pump i would go the bosh 044 then save up for bigger injectors just wondering if with a fuel presure regular (rising rate) would i still be able to use standard injectores till i got bigger ones??

036 injectors go on no trouble, i think so anyway, they are 380cc. If you do put an 044 in i think you have to take a restrictor/nozzle thing out of the end of the return line, where it goes into the swirlpot in the fuel tank, or it will do silly things to your fuel pressure. yeah you can uses the rising rate regulaotr with standard injectors, you'll be able to run a bit more boost as well. You can't use the standard 02 sensor to tune, the reading they put out are effected largly by temp, so thats one thing against the standard one, as it's temperature will fluctuate alot where it is. and the narrow band sensors are called so because they are only really good over a "narow band" of afr's, that is it's very sensitive around 14.7:1, like a said, any chanege slightly above or below this makes a large change, in the 12:1 area that you would be tuning they dont work so well. What power output are you after?

GTR injectors bolt onto the stock vl fuel rail and are good for around 300rwkw only cost about $300 for a second hand set also. money well spent i recon