Very simple. $235 for new lifters = NOT Nissan A set of new Nissan lifters is at least $800. So either you have old ones that they have charged you for, or cheap replacement ones. I have new aftermarket ones that cost $360 from memory and never tap.

what brand aftermarket are they sigmund? And hilly are you sure you gotta hold it for 5 mins? I thought 30-45 secs was be fine when you first start it up?

Quote: Originally Posted by BOOSTnWGn Did he put in an aftermarket cam aswell ?? If the lifter blocks have not been machined enough it could possibaly cause this tapping noise. When you first start the car did you bleed the lifters by holding a steady RPM of 3-4k for 5 mins or so ? I didnt want to hold the revs that high cos the cam was a new grind and I think you have to avoid high RPM for the first few hours of use, but I did hold it at around 1500-2000 for a while. The lifter blocks have been machined and if they hadnt been done properly I think I'd be getting incorrect compression, or the car wouldnt be running right.

yea all up for 12 nissan lifters are around 800 dollary doo's expensive **** i just finished reco my old nissan ones that i replaced with aftermarket units gonna put them back in this afternoon

Did you soak the lifters in oil before putting them in? Did you tip the lifter on its side once they were pumped up or soaked in oil? If you did not install the package correctly, then they will never pump up with oil. The tapping is the slop in the lifter between the cam and the rocker. Only a few thou slop is required to make a noise. If you take your VL out for a caining and you get lifter noise, but it goes away, that is normal as the lifter does compress at High RPM due to the valvetrain spinning faster, and thus causing some of the oil in the lifters to bleed. Also if the lifter faces are chipped, they will tap as well. Try using a thicker oil like Penrite HPR-30 and see if the noise does go away. Failing that you could bleed the lifters and re-install or take it to a workshop to fix. Cheers -- ---- Costa

The lifters were installed by the guy that built the head, I received it already assembled. I purchased brand new lifters (so they shouldnt be chipped) and was told they were soaked in oil for over a week before they were installed. The noise is there from cold to warm, whether you cain it or not (its always there). The only thing I havent done is drive it over 4500-5000 RPM as the tune is only guess work and I dont want to push my luck. He said that a bit of high RPM should make the noise go away, but I'm having doubts.

same thing happened to me. I was also told the same thing mate. i eventually found out mine were aftermarket ones. The way you tell is to take out one lifter and see if it has a stamp on it. For them to be genuine ones the should have a symbol (similar to a chev badge) imprinted on it. If it doesnt you have been stooged sorry to say and they have put aftermarket ones in. The longer they tap, you can chew out the new cam. Go back to them and ask them to put "genuine" ones in. Ive got them in mine now and they only tap for about 2 secs when i start the car up from cold.

You got NEW genuine ones, or just good second hand?

New genuine ones.

How much did you pay?

I have installed many sets of non genuine lifters, Never a noise problem since. I have a set of brand new non genuine but made in Japan complete set of lifters for $350 the set PM or email jetpwr@@optusnet.com.au

I got aftermarket ones 7months ago for $120 for set of 12, soaked in oil for 10min, put them in and they were quiet in 10-15 seconds of startup, and there still not making any noise. Was your engine making any noise before the head work??

Sounds like you have a re-ground cam and need to machine your lifter blocks to suit!

JET-6 thats an amatuer mistake. The work has been done by a professional so yes the lifter housings have been machined.

It maybe an amatuer mistake, but whos to say he measured it right and never took enough off, if seen it done heaps of times. I will bet its had only about 1/2 taken of whats needed

Quote: Originally Posted by JET-6 It maybe an amatuer mistake, but whos to say he measured it right and never took enough off, if seen it done heaps of times. I will bet its had only about 1/2 taken of whats needed Exactly what I was saying mate. As RB-30 Power was saying, the tapping noise is the slop between lifters and cam. If aftermarket cams are involved then it seems the most common cause of this are lifter blocks that have not been machined far enough. And like Jet-6; I have also seen it done HEAPS of times, and by very repuitable builders. They don't take enough off. There is then a gap, all be it a small one, between cam and lifters and this creates the ticking noise. Take it back to him and fix it. There should be absolutely no need to rev it to 4500-5000rpm just to get rid of the ticking. Quote: Originally Posted by SYKOVL The lifter blocks have been machined and if they hadnt been done properly I think I'd be getting incorrect compression, or the car wouldnt be running right. Your car can run perfect with incorrectly machined lifter blocks.

Is there an easy way to measure how much needs to be machined off? I had to replace my old cam with another very similar grind and I still get a little bit of lifter noise and I dont want to have to replace another cam cause of it.

could also be an oil pump problem!!

Nah oil pump is fine. With the lifter block machining... Wouldnt the valves not be opening enough if the lifter block/rocker arms are meant to be sitting closer to the cam? I'm getting good vac levels...

sounds like lifter block machining. take the rocker cover off, have a look when a particular cylinder is on the base circle of the cam and see how compressed the lifter is, it should be around half way compressed when the valve is on the seat. grab a lifter off your old head and have a look to see what full out and in look like first.