MSWYLD - Good Luck Trying To Fit 0-Guage Wiring Into Any Amp. This Guy Is Not Looking For Spl Products, 4-Guage Wiring WIll Do Him Fine. Just Remember, Quality Wiring & Installations Will Make Your Stereo A Hell Of A Lot Better. Buy Decent Products Once & Only Once.

i run my 2 12's off an audiobahn monoblock and it goes pretty hard, no need for 6X9's.. i got all mine installed n got it cheaper aswell without the hassel of tryin to do it myself, and like vl calais said, do it once n save the trouble of spending more later to replace cheap parts. magnum06 - im not really sure wat a monoblock is but i have one n it works a treat, all i know is its like a continuous circuit..

a monoblock is a one channel amp, hence mono. used to run subs and only subs as they only push out the low frequencies. do a search on CAA. im sure you will find out much more info there! -George

basicly if you run 6*9s and a sub also your get kinda gaps between your bass because subs are meant for only low frequencies, 6*9s are meant for lowish all the way to higher pitch. I had 6*9 with my sub first off then changed to 3way 6'' and it sounds alot more crisp, If you can get two amps a mono block and a 2 channel, run your subs off mono block, rear 6'' on your deck front speakers (6" splits, include crossover, tweeter and speaker) off your 2 channel amp for up front, then invest in sound deadining

Quote: Originally Posted by [GRKXTC] i was thinkin settin it up lyk this: 2x 6" splits at the front (doors) 2x 1" tweeters in the middle (btwn the 2 doors on the pillar) or at the front 2x 6x9's in the parcel shelf 2x 12" subs in the boot would this sound good or?? and what speakers should i run off amps (should i share any) and what wattage amps.. if u get me? anyone have any better suggestions? Look mate, i'll just clear things up for you... The reason you dont have 6x9's with subs is because 6x9's = cheap bass - they give alright bass for what they are but can distort really easily if not set up with a amp and are not that clear. Sub = Good deep bass run off a amp - all they do is give low tones.. What your best off doing is getting Up Front - a half decent headunit - get some good 6.5' splits in the doors ( they are called spilts because they have a separate mid range and tweeter). I would be spending as much as i could on the splits because that where you (yourself - your ears) are getting most of the sounds from. Put the tweeters in the corner of your dash next to the pillar and obviously the midrange in the door. To make the best of these you really should be running them of an amp. Its all to do with stageing. Rear - well I wouldn't be too worried about what you put here because it is just "fill" and you technicaly dont hear much of what comes from them. I wouldnt get 6x9's cos it will ruin your good bass from the subs. ( Remember Sub bass = good, 6x9 bass = crappy... Sub+6x9 = uneven ****ty bass). I would just get some half decent 6' co axials (normal speakers ie, midrange and tweeter together). I wouldnt bother running a amp on these ---> just fill & for rear passengers. Boot - get some half decent subs in a good box running off an adequate amp. This set up should really pump if you get the right gear... i.e not all sony xplod. Just remeber you want all your good clear high end sounds up front where you are listening, and your low bass sounds in the rear. So really the main words i'd give you is buy good 6.5' spilts and run them off a good amp. you can pretty much go the lower grade stuff for the rest if your pov... But i suppose your just a nother muzza who just wants his boot rattle and to "get the chicks horny with D bAsS" Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

thanx heaps silvawags LOL @ the muzza comment.. naa mate i just wanna sik system, but no point throwing **** in that i dont kno about, and myt as well do it once, and not buy cheap/wrong **** now then replace it later on Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Don't use 6x9s at all. Honestly, they sound like trash, they are expensive and just look plain tacky! Don't even consider using the stock 4" speaker locations if you're after something that sounds somewhat decent. 6" splits on pods, or even spacers in the front doors would be the way to go. With some 6" coaxials of decent quality on the back shelf for rear fill. High pass the speakers at around 80hz.

Good info fellas, keep it coming. The Sony Xplods I originally thought of are now out of the equation and I will just go with Pioneer, but I need a few suggestions first. Which head unit? Which Amps? (I will need 2 right?) Which splits (with tweeters built in Which SUB? I will not be using 6x9's by the way. Just post links for each one from their website to make things easier. Cheers! www.pioneeraus.com.au (http://www.pioneeraus.com.au)

Deck: Alpine, JVC, Pioneer Amps: Soundstream Splits: Focal Woofer: Depends on budget?

whats a good brand tv/headunit 2 get? thanx for all the help guys.

ive currently got the following JVC Mp3 player Kenwood 6" in the doors ///|Lpine hehehe... 6x9's (not connected in the parcel shelf) cadence 12" sub off a Kenwood 350W amp i recently turned the sub down coz the car vibrates a little too much, clutch, brake pedals, dash, my fone vibrates like hell... sounds VERY good, but coz i have turned down the sub yeah....

I'm now heading towards a 12" Alpine R-type sub and R-type Coaxial splits. http://www.alpine.com.au/default.html# (splits) http://www.alpine.com.au/default.html# (SUB) I picked those as I didn't want separate tweeters and I wanted a 12" SUB. Are these the way to go? Any suggestions on what block to run with the SUB?

bump

hey dude. you're heading the right way... not sure what your budget was on this? you haven't mentioned it so it seems it's not an issue. A few options: AMP: alpine.com.au then go products>amplifiers>V12 amplifiers>MRV-F545. This is a 4-channel amp. Channel 1+2 can power your splits (giving 125rms each which is quite decent) and channels 3+4 can bridge to give 500RMS. It's about $650 if you haggle and get it with other stuff. Won the award last year coz it's so versitile and Alpine don't skimp on quality. This would last you 10+ years if you treat it right. SUB: The Type Rs rock for a very decent price. They are ***n loud in a ported box and give quite decent SQ. They take 500RMS so you can power it from your Alpine amp mentioned above. And remember alpine are a good brand so this won't go crook on ya if you respect it. If you wanted 2 Type R's then you can get a deal where you get the Alpine Box which has been made for 2 Type S's but they replace 'em with 2 Type r's. If you wanted to do this then you'd need a different amp. You would want a mono amp giving about 1500RMS so that it didn't clip and gave a clean signal to your subs so it wont damage them (set gains for about 600rms each sub daily driving). SPLITS UP FRONT: Alpine splits are ok but ask anyone who knows a decent bit about car audio and they'll tell you that you can get better for the price. Personally I'm about to get some MBQuart splits put in in less than a week. They take 120RMS but I listened to them in the salesman's car (he's got them he loves them) and he puts up to 1,000RMS through them through a monoamp! They love power... for $500 they are great. My point is they are cheapish(for quality splits) but take the power. Look around and you'll find good stuff. Focal are more of an SQ brand than a SPL but SQ in front splits is always the best to look for. Hertz are also frequently looked at... REAR-FILL: This is annoying to read from people who don't know what they're talking about. now I'm no expert, just a very keen ammature giving some advice. But everyone should learn this first: if you have a sub then 6X9 are a waste of money. the sub gives the bass, your splits' 6" gives the mids and your tweeters give the treble. Obvious hey? 6x9 just give crappy bass you dont need if you already have a sub and, like people have said, even interfear with the subbass signals. It all sort of distorts and what gets to your ear can be a slightly muddied sound. No need for that. If you really wanted it to sound proper then you would only have a TINY bit of volume in the rear just to give some sort of depth. So if you wanted to stick some 2-way coaxial speakers in there for passangers then that would be the best go. If I could have one catch phrase in life it would be: "dont have 6x9s if you have a sub"! haha. SOUND DEADENING: This makes a huge difference. People who have never been in a properly sound-deadened car would have no clue what they are missing. If you want the bass from your front 6"s to double at least then get some Dynamat in your front doors. It will make a huge difference. Also, Dynamat in the boot is good to get rid of rattles, however I haven't done it yet myself that's just word of mouth/reading forums etc. it's like $100 or so for a door kit, more if you want the better quality stuff and the roller (dynamat.com to see what i mean. price is US dollars). HU: Headunits are a little overlooked sometimes. People don't really think of what is ini a HU or what they need in a HU for their set-up. If you've got a few amps and a big system then a good HU is a must. The Alpine CDA-9856i mentioned before is a winner. Alpine's lower-range stuff is sometimes argued to be a bit over-priced. I'd agree it could be a good $50 cheaper, however it'll last you yonks and is built well. A lot of alpine HUs are used in SPL and SQ comps. The 9856i is about $450 and has 3x4volt pre-outs meaning you can outout your HU's signal to 3 different amps etc. This is very usefull if you wanted to get 2 amps (say a mono for subs and a 2-channel for splits). It's also got iPod integration so you can plug in ur ipod from the rear and control it on the HU. Well worth a look at. But that's just my opinion. OVERALL: Specify a budget to people. Go into lots of different PROPER audio shops and get different opinions on different things. Mention what your goal is: sound quality? ***n loud? or a mix of both? something that can look outragious or something that simply does the job without going overboard in looks? ETC etc.. This was just me mentioning a few things coz i sort of saw the road you were going down. what i mentioned is by no means a pro opinion or what you should get: it's just my opinion as someone who loves car audio and has researched it a lot and is willing to help others with it. Just remember this: *Spend a good amount of money on good-quality SPLITS for the front. Do what you have to to make a 6" or 6.5" fit. It's worth it. *Forget 6x9. Some 2-way (not 3-way, they're a bit of a gimmick) coaxials will do fine for rear-fill *Never underestimate how much louder a good-quality 12" could sound over a couple of cheapy 10" subs. *A quality amp is a must. Cheap is not good, it can send bad/damaging signals to your speakers and THAT is what will **** them up, not the speaker being turned up. *A HU with features you want or need. Try not to get talked into a $600HU with more features than you'll ever need when a $350 HU has just what you want *Get peoples real-world opinions on things... from what they've HEARD in the real world, not what they've read about. Hope i've been some help. Luck TANG

Thanks a lot mate. Helped a lot. My budget is around $1500-2000 which is probably considered low, but I wouldn't want to go any higher then that. I've got a few questions after reading that. 1. AMP 4-channel (MRV-F545) - Does that mean I can run the single 12" Type-R SUB and the SPLITS without any hassles? 2. REAR-FILL - Would you run the 2 way coaxials off your Headunit? 3. Would my music sound much better if I used a monoblock for the SUB and a 2-channel for the SPLITS and the coaxials? 4. I've heard Focal were a good brand for splits. What does SQ and SPL mean? What's better? 5. Could you suggest a nice, cheap Headunit from say Pioneer. Thanks

1, 2 yes 3 nup wud be the same really 4 well focals are way outta ur buget man there bottom set of splits in about 1200ish i think 5 . wen lookin for a head unit u want one thats easy to use not too many buttons but preouts for front rear and sub

Ply-Boi is right. 1: yes, no hassels. 2: yes aswell. you don't need a lot of power for rear fill since you won't be having it all that loud anyway. 3: The only advantage of using separate amps for sub and splits is to give some 'headroom' to the amp. What i mean is this: the 545amp will do 125RMS x 2 channels (left and right splits). most decent quality splits (eg about $350+) will take 125RMS all day. And likewise bridging channels 3+4 to give 500RMS is exactly what a 12" Type R is rated for. Now here's where the term headroom comes in. Since the amp would be putting out nearly it's maximum 'clean' signal (ie an unclipped signal) at near full volume then it wouldn't have a lot of room to breathe, if you know what I mean. It would be straining if you were pushing it hard for a long time. The 545 will take it and is a good amp, but only if you want to stay within the reasonable expected bounderies of the equipment. If you wanted to push the Type R furthur and louder (say put 700RMS through it) the amp could do this, but the signal from the amp would be clipped and this is a bad signal which damages your sub. HOWEVER if the sub had an amp of it's own - a more powerfull amp than the sub would ever need (eg a 1,000RMS monoblock) - then the amp wouldn't have to strain as hard to give it it's 500RMS, or even a nice 700RMS. Setting the gains would make sure you never gave the sub all 1000rms because that would likely *** it. So in short, the alpine 545 is adequit if you don't plan on upgrading to a bigger sub any time soon or running 2 subs. and besides, if ur budget is $2,000 tops then you couldn't do too much more anywayz, especially if you want a pro-install. 4: SQ means Sound Quality... obviously you can guess what that means. SPL is Sound Pressure Level - basically how loud it will go. Focal are more a SQ speaker. They're made to reproduce recordings exactly as they were recorded and make it sound as if you were there. SPL speakers are made for going loud. The materials used may be different from that in SQ speakers as they nmight be stronger. However they trade off sound quality to get the big volumes. This doesn't always go hand in hand however. For example Digital Designs make officially THE loudest subwoofers in the world (recent world record is about 178decibels i think?) and tehy are ALSO known for giving quite decent SQ despite their enourmus SPL measure. Basically for your budget an Alpine Type R is common as mud, but for a good reason: they are loud if in teh right enclosure and also give good sound quality. What you want is up to you, but just remember that with a $2K budget the difference wont be as noticable as if you had a $15k car set up for SQ and a $15k car set up for high SPL. In terms of splits, try spending $350+. That's where your main music is comming from, so you want it to sound good. 5: Pioneer do make good HUs, although I'm not familiar with them in terms of having one/playing round with one myself. but i don know they are very decent so check one out. Also look at caraudioaustralia in the forums. you'll learn a lot by reading the 'beginners' section. good luck with it all. you can get a nice system for $2gs!

I wouldnt listen to ppl that say not to put 6x9's in if you are running subs. The point of a 6x9 is to provide mid-bass something that neither splits or sub woofers can provide. Without 6x9's there is a gap in frequencies between the splits and sub.......Just get good ones and makesure the crossovers and filters are set at the right frequencies.

Hmm, thanks fellas. Alpine stuff is expensive... I'll definetely be going with a Type R SUB and a cheaper 750RMS-1000RMS amp. Can anyone now recommend a good 4-channel amp?

Rockford fosgate 450.4