Quote: Originally Posted by mag Crank Angle Sensor, if you replace it you must do the top bearing too!!! Because that's the most likely thing that killed the CAS in the 1st place.. Buy the kit and it has the CAS of course, new rubber boot, 4 terminals, plug, bearing and instructions... where do you get this kit from?? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by steveo_69 where do you get this kit from?? Hey , I don't if i can help with you being in Melb as I got mine from Outlaw Speed shop so in melb try Repco, Autobarn, Burson Auto Parts, your local Auto sparky Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

no worries will try 2moro cheers i take it the kit is just called a CAS kit lol

Quote: Originally Posted by steveo_69 no worries will try 2moro cheers i take it the kit is just called a CAS kit lol Yes The kit has the bearing, CAS of course , new connector terminals and rubber boot and instructions. ACA brand is the one you want Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

cheers mate

Well thanks for the info, but meh. It seems the infamous rough idle problem remains. I have tried everthing to disembowel the rough idle effect and to date have achieved nothing. I think a mechanic is in order. Although something i did notice is that the, Boost & Oil pressure gauges are bouncing within the 5:1 ratio (approx 10oil, -3 Vac) Any ideas?

Quote: Originally Posted by RhiNOS Well thanks for the info, but meh. It seems the infamous rough idle problem remains. I have tried everthing to disembowel the rough idle effect and to date have achieved nothing. I think a mechanic is in order. Although something i did notice is that the, Boost & Oil pressure gauges are bouncing within the 5:1 ratio (approx 10oil, -3 Vac) Any ideas? Could be a valve? have you done a compression test yet? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

vacuum at idle should be around -21

Yeah I haven't done a compression test yet, but vac on idle is -20, so i cant see a prob there. And oil pressure on idle is around 40. I have a feeling it might be the no. 4 plug as I can't get into the little ****er. See what the day brings haha.

thanks a heap man, helped with my problem alot we thought it was initially a bad wire or plug because at idle it sounds as if its miss firing, but on second look after reading this we fixed the problem. great guide.. thanks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by pro747 thanks a heap man, helped with my problem alot we thought it was initially a bad wire or plug because at idle it sounds as if its miss firing, but on second look after reading this we fixed the problem. great guide.. thanks That's what we like to hear Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

With this plug removed test the voltage on each pin of the female harness plug against ground (engine earth/battery -ve) with the ignition on (KOEO). Should have 12v (battery volts from the EFI relay), earth (Ov), and on the remaining 2 pins - 5v on each (from ECU). Ensure the distributor shaft is turning during cranking - cam belt. With the engine cranking these 2 wires which had 5v on each are the important signals you are after - expect approx. 2.3v on one and 0.3v on the other. If the CAS has failed expect close to 5v OR close to 0.0v on one or both. If the signals are BOTH within 20% of specs. Just reading this article. i understand the fact that you will get 5volt, 0 volts, 5 volts and 5 volts from the 4pin harness side of the crank angle sensor. i dont understand the second part of it though. "When cranking, the two 5volt signal wires will drop to 2.3volts and 0.3 volts. If they stay at 5 volts or 0 volts then your CAS has failed". Unless you hook the harness back up to the CAS and test whilst connected, wont you still get the 5 volt signals cause its not actually connected to the CAS? I thought the CAS actually changes the signal voltage, if not connected then wont see the change.

Whilst slowing down for a set of lights last week, my car started running really rough, as though someone was turning he key on and off! i managed to limp it home but now it wont even start! Ive replaced the CAS, Power transistor thingy, and have even replaced the entire dizzy with one from a running car. Still wont go. Rotor button, dizzy cap and leads/plugs are alll brand new. It runs a haltech E6X so there is no AFM. Any suggestions?? im yet to try all the tests that have been posted but thought someone could have an idea! Cheers Wardy

Quote: Originally Posted by wardy32 Whilst slowing down for a set of lights last week, my car started running really rough, as though someone was turning he key on and off! i managed to limp it home but now it wont even start! Ive replaced the CAS, Power transistor thingy, and have even replaced the entire dizzy with one from a running car. Still wont go. Rotor button, dizzy cap and leads/plugs are alll brand new. It runs a haltech E6X so there is no AFM. Any suggestions?? im yet to try all the tests that have been posted but thought someone could have an idea! Cheers Wardy I guess you tried another coil Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yeah i did! but then again there was no proof that the one i had worked lol! Ill go through all the tests tomorrow after work.. i really hope that there is nothing wrong with the ecu.. the fuel pumps are running fine so i guess the ecu is still powering up.

Quote: Originally Posted by wardy32 yeah i did! but then again there was no proof that the one i had worked lol! Ill go through all the tests tomorrow after work.. i really hope that there is nothing wrong with the ecu.. the fuel pumps are running fine so i guess the ecu is still powering up. I personally haven't had any dealings with a haltech E6X so not much help there.. But change things one at a time and retry Good luck Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ok so i did all the test that are on page 1!! double checked things but still no spark.. One thing i did find was that the fawn wire onto the PT had no signal (should be 0.4V) i removed my kickpanel and realised that the bloody windscreen rubber has been leaking and water had gotten around the ecu!!! not happy. im not 100% sure if the water had gotten in and done any damage, but it is weird that the car stopped the day after rain! im thinkin of changing the entire engine harness to eliminate any wiring problems/breaks etc does anyone know what the costs are to get a haltech looked at? i didnt get a chance to call them today. Wardy

Quote: Originally Posted by wardy32 ok so i did all the test that are on page 1!! double checked things but still no spark.. One thing i did find was that the fawn wire onto the PT had no signal (should be 0.4V) i removed my kickpanel and realised that the bloody windscreen rubber has been leaking and water had gotten around the ecu!!! not happy. im not 100% sure if the water had gotten in and done any damage, but it is weird that the car stopped the day after rain! im thinkin of changing the entire engine harness to eliminate any wiring problems/breaks etc does anyone know what the costs are to get a haltech looked at? i didnt get a chance to call them today. Wardy I think you should get the ECU checked out 1st then, I think it's had a bath then by what you say and a leaking windscreen right above it is common. Sometimes there OK after they dry out - some people have sprayed them with a heap of CRC and have been OK after - but yours being costly to replace I'd get the ECU checked 1st Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

sent it away to be checked.. looks like the water got in there and done the damage!! im waiting to hear back about wether it can be repaired or not. Pissed and happy at the same time, at least i found the problem.. So either way when i get a ecu back (mine or a new one!) it will be mounted in the glovebox and gettin a new windscreen seal.. cheers for the replies mag! Wardy

whats the amm? or is it another word for air flow meter