yeah i've got the tools, thanks guys, okay so ill sand it back to the primer, make sure its nice and smooth working up to 400 wet. Why do i need to prime it again? anyways the paint on this car is ****house, i thought id just give it a go myself, if i really mess it up i'll get someone else to do it but i figure the best way to learn is to give it a shot!

Little off topic, but how hard is it to use paint stripper to go back to bare metal? Good idea, bad idea, or to much effort? Is it harder or easier to prep from bare metal?

just one more question guys, a few of the replacement panels i have brought for my car have been painted in acrylic...and the rest of my car's painted in 2pac So just to confirm...if i buy a 2pac primer and put that over the acrylic paint, that will be fine? Or should i go and buy isolator? Can anyone reccomend a good place in perth to get this stuff? Thanks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

where you live?

Quote: Originally Posted by holdonv8 where you live? in marangaroo mate (close to you)

yes it will be fine to use 2pac primer over acrylic, dont need to go that much into it just sand the whole body with 180 dry and prime it then use 600 wet get a marker and circle all the dents on the car and fix them up first

awesome yeah im in the process of fixing up rust etc now.. i didnt realise there was a difference between 2pac and acrilyc primer. whats a good 2pac primer?

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER Little off topic, but how hard is it to use paint stripper to go back to bare metal? Good idea, bad idea, or to much effort? Is it harder or easier to prep from bare metal? Generaly u go back to bare metal when 1 U are gonna be spraying ur car in 2pak and the car is originaly in acrylic and ur worried 3 or more years down the track there may be some issues with the 2 different types of paint. 2 U want a decent amount of panel work done to ur car to get it dead straight 3 Ur car paint work is in bad condition (cracks etc) and U have to strip it back to fix the condition. If u were to say , have a VT commodore (factory 2pak) and the body was dead straight bar the drivers door and front bonnet. And the car clearly is in original condition. No point stripping it back just for the sake of saying "ow yea its a bare metal respray" It IS harder to strip to bare metal then it is to just sand the old paint and prime but u have to consider the above reasons and think is it better to strip it back and start fresh.

Quote: Originally Posted by RyRy awesome yeah im in the process of fixing up rust etc now.. i didnt realise there was a difference between 2pac and acrilyc primer. whats a good 2pac primer? Everyone will have a different opinion on which brand is the best 2pak primer (mine would be Spies Hecker) But generaly a Hifill one that would be recomeded. Hi fill would be a 4:1 which means 4 parts primer to 1 part harderner. Compared to a lower ratio of 2:1 etc Also make shure it is a 2pak primer and not a 1k 2pak primer. Meaning u HAVE to add a hardener to the primer.

i used sikkens plus base coat and tinter($150 a ltr) for my car with lesanol hifill and sikkens clear and turned out great. was painted in a booth by a pro painter though. not the most expensive stuff but still pretty expensive. ive been told sikkens is made lesanol too, not sure how true that is though.