has n e 1 thought of making use of that electronic clutch on the blower? maybe hooking it up so it kicks in only when the pwr light flicks on? i reckon that'll make things much easier, cos the blower wont actually be spinning unless the clutch is grabbed on, just makes sense to me, but maybe im wrong, am i wrong? lol
doesnt the crs kit have the clutch hooked up something similar to what i said?
and also ive heard about how the blower doesnt have much potential and wont take you too far, has anyone thought about seeing if it can be rebuilt somewhere to be stronger, move more air? or rev faster safely?
yes i used the clutch. when it's off, inlet vacuum pulls the vanes around but you drop power obviously.
rebuilding is not an option. buying a larger, or more efficient blower is.
Rebuilding an SC14 is not really possible. First problem is the bearings are a funny size, and the original bearings are EPOXIED into the aluminium housing. If you can figure out how to get them out, you are still going to have problems.
Next comes the difficulty of replacing the pressed on gears at the back. Chances are removing them, and putting them back, they will not be quite as tight the second time. The gears are helical, so how far you press them on alters the rotor timing. Without special jigs, the rotors will probably hit each other, and then you will be in real trouble.
These blowers are cheap and nasty, and are really a throw away item when they wear out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpspeed
Make sure the control diaphragm is around twice the diameter of the poppet valve, or you will have hell selecting a suitable spring and getting it to work properly.
I got what they call a "7 PSI" spring in my wastegate. on idle it wouldnt even open, i took the sping out and got the grinder. cut off 2 coils and stretched it out to the same size, It opend on idle but closed with just a touch of the throttle. i took another coil off and i got boost with around 1/5 throt, that was fine for a bit but i got over it, BOVed to much so i cut about 1/2 a coil off again and it make it 1/2 throt.. That was much better and is what i have now.
sounds like you might have a small control diaphragm area matt, is it a cheapo wastegate?
there's something to be said for using a decent gate for bypass purposes, mine is a Garrett 32mm job and has 1.9x the poppet valve area on the diaphragm.
altering the spring rate does work however, as you found out.
Yeah, Stocky and I have both played around with these supercharger bypass systems a fair bit, and I have to agree that a good wastegate is essential to success.
Finding or modifying a spring takes a few tries but it is not that difficult to get it exactly how you want it.
Look on e-bay, there are LOTS of pictures of Eaton superchargers. The CAPA website also has a fair bit of information.
http://www.capa.com.au/prices_eaton.htm
Hi the sc 14 has a pressure release valve that runs of the vacum side of the charger it has you just hook a hose up to it and it works off that mine builds up to much pressure and it just blows the air out the hose look at my pics its all there
Quote:
Originally Posted by korey
Hi the sc 14 has a pressure release valve that runs of the vacum side of the charger it has you just hook a hose up to it and it works off that mine builds up to much pressure and it just blows the air out the hose look at my pics its all there
are you saying a waste gate is not needed?
All the Toyota factory supercharged engines have a bypass system built into the rather intricate intake manifold casting. It works in exactly the same way as a Stocky/Warpspeed/Matty do it yourself home made wastegate bypass. The only problem with the factory Toyota bypass system, it is built into the manifold, and is not really transferable to anything else.
There is nothing on the actual supercharger itself to do this, so I have to disagree with Korey here.
A $50.00 Chinese e-bay wastegate with low melting point "super" zinc diecast alloy body, and crappy "low tensile" mild steel poppet valve, with a Peoples Republic of China "condom" thin rubber control diaphragm will work wonderfully well as a supercharger bypass, because there is no significant heat in this application.
Just make damned sure the diameter of the control diaphragm is at least twice that of the poppet valve. Just eyeball the pictures on e-bay, some meet this requirement, and some most definitely do not.
Then all you need is a weaker spring. If the wastegate starts to open at about 2.5psi, and is fully open around 4psi under the diaphragm that will definitely work for you. But something a bit different will probably work too, it depends a lot on personal preference. Try it and see.
cool thanks mate just didnt want to have to spend big dosh on a waste gate when the charger is only 300 buck. ill have a look. thanks again
also i have read a bit of what people on hear have said about monsta wastegates and they said they are pretty **** but they are using them for a turbo so would they be ok for a sc or would they still be crap. i dont know much about wastegates at all so i dont really know what im looking for.
thanks in advance
A wastegate is a pretty simple thing with really only one moving part. The only real difference between a top name brand $800 wastegate, and complete rubbish, is really the type and quality of materials that the wastegate is made from.
But a turbo wastegate might have to work bolted to a cherry red exhaust manifold, and pass exhaust gas at over 1,000 degrees Celsius. An aluminium diecast body, and cheap rubber diaphragm, are just not up to that sort of treatment, or at least not be terribly reliable.
The same identical wastegate bolted to a supercharger may never reach even 100 degrees Celsius, and it will most likely work fine for a very long time. It is not under anything like the same sort of thermal stresses. Something may still go wrong with it, but at around one tenth of the price, it is well worth the risk.
Just make sure the actual control diaphragm is at least twice the diameter of the poppet valve, not many of the cheaper gates are like that.
I have never tried one of these, or even seen one in the metal, but there is something regularly advertised on e-bay as a "38mm wastegate".
Just from the pictures the top control part of the wastegate looks huge in diameter compared to the inlet and outlet diameters, so it looks like it might be a pretty good candidate for a supercharger bypass.
If you get to choose, buy one with the lowest boost spring available, that might be 7psi ?? or lower if you can get it. The spring will still need to be cut down a bit, but it will be a better starting off point than a much stiffer higher boost setting spring.
