Have a look here for specs. Make up your own mind
http://www.northwestnissans.com/boa...read.php?t=6352 (http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/showthread.php?t=6352)
Seriously though, in my opinion I would go the RB30 turbo route. Because in the end you will have more torque lower down and thats what gets the show on the road.
Yeah id go RB30 for sure..
Like 86gr33nVL said just weigh up the costs, if the RB30ET comes out same price or slightly more expensive go that way.
Way more low down power, my mate has a R32 skyline and its SO slow even with a cooler, 15psi, exhaust etc it runs slower than my vlct that misfires and needs a tune. Thats how poor they are.
My cousin also got a silvia with a RB20 conversion and he has rebuilt it, MASSIVE turbo, wolf 3D, injectors, cooler, 3" straight exhaust, Nitrous (think he is using NOS) and that only ran 340 hp with ****loads spent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftArab
My cousin also got a silvia with a RB20 conversion and he has rebuilt it, MASSIVE turbo, wolf 3D, injectors, cooler, 3" straight exhaust, Nitrous (think he is using NOS) and that only ran 340 hp with ****loads spent.
That isnt that good considering that N/A VLs have like 150hp.
I weighed it all up. rb20 was tempting due to the cheapness however i decided myself to save the extra and go rb25. The rb20 has around 160kw standard however has 20% less torgue than a rb30. Rb30det has 150kw standard and has a lot more potential for power. An rb25det has around 185kw standard and is the cheapest way for quick power however an rb30det will always be best for big horsepower numbers. Weigh it up dude. If you ever want to sell the car an rb30det will always fetch more cash as people will look down on a smaller engine in a VL especially a 2L. The rb20det in comparision to a NA motor would has similar torque hoever its spread out on a much wider rev range unlike the rb30 NA.
thanks fellas, thats a help nar i will go rb25det was able to hit mum up for some extra cash and was able to scrap up a fu(k load more hours at work. and wit tax time commin soon ill be set. i will just start by changin to vlt diff wit lsd, up grade the front brakes, and get the ball rollen and start lookin for an engine. wats the best place to look for a rb25det i have been lookin on here for the past month have seen some pretty good ones but never in qld, where else shall i look also does the rb25 fit straight in or have to fitted.
cheers fellas vlw4nk3r
if ur after sum cheap fun go the RB20DET...for like $2200 u get everything (including gearbox) and they pretty much bolt straight in... i even heard that the the gearbox stick comes straight up through the standard hole without any modification (not sure if its true tho)...i rekon if u were handy with tools u could hav it in with a front mount and tuned for less than 5K...and u can $400 for the old engine
but if u want bigger power go the RB30ET...i think that it will end up a ****e load more expensive (my bro did this conversion and i think by the end of it he spent over 5K with forgies and still the NA auto which has held up surprisingly)...and ul still need a mod plate im pretty sure as u need 1 for anything that the car didnt leave the factory with ie wheels, steering wheel, suspension, brakes etc.. just depends how much of a prick the copper is :P
its pretty easy to get 220kW at the wheels out of an RB20...but u will need a new turbo i think
anyway...thats my spiel for the day...cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by VLW4NK3R
thanks fellas, thats a help nar i will go rb25det was able to hit mum up for some extra cash and was able to scrap up a fu(k load more hours at work. and wit tax time commin soon ill be set. i will just start by changin to vlt diff wit lsd, up grade the front brakes, and get the ball rollen and start lookin for an engine. wats the best place to look for a rb25det i have been lookin on here for the past month have seen some pretty good ones but never in qld, where else shall i look also does the rb25 fit straight in or have to fitted.
cheers fellas vlw4nk3r
Not to hard though im a mechanic. Wiring is a prick if u don't know what your doing. You will need an engineering certificate.
Shortened tailshaft
HEavy duty clutch
New timming belt
Bigger frount brakes
diff
electronics, etc.
Wil lcost you over $6g eas. don't be fooled if you think it will be cheaper. Just a warning
i was told that a vl manual is the rb20 manual but minus the dual synchros.
also a heavy duty clutch isnt really an issue unless you going to give it and boost it up hard. diff also shouldnt be a problem if you know how to look after a tranny and diff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacoVL
i was told that a vl manual is the rb20 manual but minus the dual synchros.
also a heavy duty clutch isnt really an issue unless you going to give it and boost it up hard. diff also shouldnt be a problem if you know how to look after a tranny and diff.
Why would you leave the old clutch in there to start with? Might as well replace it while your able to save yourself time and money down the track. My personal opinion would be to save money and put a heavy duty clutch in there straight away so you don't have to change it if u decide to put more power through it. Each to their own but.
