easiest way i found was to use a peice of bicycle brake cable and use it in a sawing action same way as using it to pull the windscreens out without breaking them take bugger all time and doesn't break the strips

Superstar... heat the glue up and see if you can peel it off... just try and heat gun it so it comes off.. otherwise.. i dunno what you are going ot do!

superstar that was where i got up to but there is no point worrying about it i just spray over it or put the moulds over it. YOU DONT SEE IT ANYWAY

Hmm, ill give the heatgun a go, will have to dig deep in the garage to find it tho. LoL. But yeah, wiplash might have an idea there, as its only like paper thin. I can always just respray over it. Cheers guys.

I did this last week. I used a long serated kitchen knife and slice through the sikaflex. Do the top strip of glue first and then the bottom. Be careful not to stab the tip of the knife into the sill panel covers if you intend on keeping them.

Quote: Originally Posted by VLHERO I did this last week. I used a long serated kitchen knife and slice through the sikaflex. Do the top strip of glue first and then the bottom. Be careful not to stab the tip of the knife into the sill panel covers if you intend on keeping them. exactly what I said above a while back. It works a treat. Get the exec (top) moulds off first, then go for the calais ones.

why would u want to remove it.. unless you are taking it of a car at the wreckers?

WHY?? . . . . WHY?? . . . . Ummmm yeah . . . So I can have them on my car ofcourse

Same goes for the upper moulds. Get a flexible bladed knife with a serated blade and put it between the body and the top of the mould. While bending the blade away from the body of the car saw through the glue. Once the top strip of glue is cut pull the mould out from the car at the top and cut through the bottom strip.

Quote: Originally Posted by VLHERO Same goes for the upper moulds. Get a flexible bladed knife with a serated blade and put it between the body and the top of the mould. While bending the blade away from the body of the car saw through the glue. Once the top strip of glue is cut pull the mould out from the car at the top and cut through the bottom strip. I have found it a lot easier if you remove the top moulds to get to the bottom moulds, I have only ever cracked one mould, and I have pulled about 5 sets of now. Dont use a serated knife, grab a sharp long bladed kitchen knife, they work a treat. Cut through the stickafles from the top to bottom.

Quote: Originally Posted by vlt-dreamer i simply used a really sharp/long kitchen knife to slice through the stickaflex, it worked a treat. also try not to bend the plastic as they snap/crack pretty easily You cant beat the sharp kitchen knife, i have tried everything and its the best method.

Quote: Originally Posted by vlt-dreamer I have found it a lot easier if you remove the top moulds to get to the bottom moulds. Cut through the stickafles from the top to bottom. Thats the way, remove the top moulds, then the bottom ones. Always work from top to bottom. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I Did it with a long stanly knife and heaps of WD40 it works good and lets the knife slice through easier

Just took my door moulds off.. didnt take too long at all. Only used a hammer and a paint scraper You learn so much about you car's history when you start looking whats underneath My side skirts were sikaflexed on too Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Is that primer I see?

please dont tell me you used that hammer......? Guys your methods are ok if your striping a car at the wreckers but if their your own slap yourselves realy hard coz more than likely you have just strtched and put ripples through your doors/guards.... there is no other way to do it if you guys have used a heat gun you will know how easy it is, and not to mention cleaner..

heat gun worked like a dream side1.JPG (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/attachment.php?s=8481e26fe7de03a3775ce9a10a244853&attachmentid=14353&d=1154153912) side2.JPG (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/attachment.php?s=8481e26fe7de03a3775ce9a10a244853&attachmentid=14354&d=1154153912)

You can also f*ck this up using a heatgun mate. If you don't know how long to leave it on the area, the plastic warms up and can warp/become out of shape. Personally, when I was doing this, I used a super, super sharp scraper which was easily available to me because Dads a painter. Was easy enough. The stanley knife method would also work. Jason.

Quote: Originally Posted by aquabat You can also f*ck this up using a heatgun mate. If you don't know how long to leave it on the area, the plastic warms up and can warp/become out of shape. thanks for pointing that out coz if your careless enough you could stuff your paint and mold itself.. all you have to do is use the back of your hand every 30 sec or so (and never hold it in one spot keep it moving round the area) just so you know your not heating it up too much.. just ask your local smash repair how they would take it off they will tell you every time to use a heat gun and scraper.. my 2c *edited* oh and to get all the excess urethane off you can use whats called a "caramel wheel" on a air drill at low speeds or again it will heat up and could strip paint or warp the panel.. i will get a pic of one soon you can find them at your local paint shop their about 4 bucks..

Ive just taken mine off and 2 from a car at the wreckers cause 2 of mine were cracked and i used a cheepo stanly knife with the snap off blades and just worked from the top running it from one end all the way to the other over and over again till it cut through. took a while but didnt like the prying with screw drivers and bog knives thing. it didn't mark the paint once or the mould just takes some time. the fishing line is good for badges but not moulds cause they have the locating pins and you cant get past them with fishing line.